Testing INDUXPERT Portable Induction Cooktop 1800W

[TANSTAAFB]

Once AGAIN, thank you homebrewfinds!

INDUXPERT Portable Induction Cooktop 1800W with Power, Temperature and Timer Setting - (Only Compatible with Magnetic Cookware) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTLX85A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Bought on lightning deal and just got it in. Testing with my 10 gallon triclad bottom kettle and so far it heated 2.5 gal of water from 70°F water to 120°F in 15 minutes, 132°F in 20! I had considered buying the Mash & Boil or Robobrew but I think I just found a waaaay cheaper indoor winter brewing solution. I already have a WilserBag to fit this kettle. I'll do more testing to see how it goes with maintaining mash temps. I wish the temp controls were more incremental but for $28 I'm pretty happy!

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[TANSTAAFB]

Additional testing:
6.25 gal water in 10 gal triclad kettle w/ reflectix insulation.
Ambient temperature approximately 80°F
Starting temp 79°F @ 7pm
1800w/ 464°F temp setting
101.6 @ 16min
122.7 @ 32min
136.9@ 43min
152.6@ 55min
158@ 60min, exactly the strike temp of Helles N Back 4 gal
Reduced to 200w, 176°F to check on temp maintenance ability
159°@ 80min. Dropped to 140° @ 200w
157.4°@ 97min
154.5@ 120min
Ambient temperature dropped to 70.5° by end of test

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Next I will test time to strike temp with my bucket heater

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/allied-precision-bucket-heater-1000-w

Which should significantly decrease the time it takes to heat strike water.

Then need to test in an actual mash. I'm pretty sure keeping the wattage and temp on the lowest settings (200w/ 140°F) will keep the mash right on target

 

[pricelessbrewing]

Next time i use my 1800w duxtorp (~$60), I will supply some numbers as well.

Note: if you have an IKEA near you, there's a new induction portable 1800w burner named TILLREDA (not on the website yet). 2 year warranty. $45. I haven't tested it yet, but it's on my to-do list.

@TANSTAAFB that's a stout kettle you have there! Did you check the temp stability during the mash at 200w? I'm a little concerned with developing a hot spot on the bottom of the mash and causing heat to build up without any sort of stirring to distribute the heat throughout. I've known people to burn their bags in this way. @Wilserbrewer thoughts?

 

[TANSTAAFB]

It has a triclad bottom which should distribute the heat pretty well. Haven't had a chance to test with a mash but with just water it only dropped to 147 2.5 hrs later with the heat turned off, 112 the next morning, and 100 by 7:30 the next night...I'm thinking kettle sour!

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm a little concerned with developing a hot spot on the bottom of the mash and causing heat to build up without any sort of stirring to distribute the heat throughout. I've known people to burn their bags in this way. @Wilserbrewer thoughts?

While I have seen bags damaged from induction cookers, I believe this resulted when the user attempted to set a temp w the cook top.

200 w may be the sweet spot and likely not cause an overheat scorch condition idk, but does the heat actually get distributed to the mash, or is the bottom 1/2" 10 plus degrees and the rest of the mash 2-4 minus idk. Occasional stir perhaps....

I have found insulating the tun to be so damn easy and effective vs adding heat / recirculating that I'm not convinced holding a perfect mash temp is the road to success. Many other areas to worry about be it ferm temps, water Chem, recipe, hop selection hop stands, malt bill, couple degrees mash temp rdwhahb imo. (Small batch excluded where you simply don't have the mass to maintain temps)
Thank

 

[wilserbrewer]

Sorry double post on mobile

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Sooooo, couldn't find a hotel for less than $175 in Colorado Springs after an appointment so ended up driving back to the Valley. Which required a 5hr energy and a Monster to make the monotonous 3 hr drive home. Which left me wide the f@#& awake at 1am. So I'm brewing my Helles'N'Back, listening to the Right Reverend Horton Heat, and testing the new induction setup.

7.5# CO Malting Co. 2-row
.75# CO Malting Co. ColoPils
1# Dark Munich (15L)
5oz Acid malt
2g Calcium chloride
1.25oz Saaz FWH
1oz Hallertau 15 min
Whirlfloc
Yeast nutrient
Saflager 34/70

Mash test
7.5gal 75°F filtered water 1800w 464°F + bucket heater 2:30am
102.5°F 2:50
126°F 2am
158.5°F 3:20am strike temp
153.8 3:30 mash stabilized, no heat
151.8 3:50; stirred, no heat

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Duncan the new brew dog cleaning up all malt that might have spilled!

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[TANSTAAFB]

F it, we're going to experiment with extended mash times too. I'm going to bed, I'll boil when I wake up 🙊🙉🙈🤘

 

[TANSTAAFB]

RyePA night (morning?) cap

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[TANSTAAFB]

147.5°F @ 4:35am

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Alright, I'm back!

Temp was 129.7°F @ 9:55am

1042 pre boil 6.8 gal--according to Beersmith this is about 83% mash efficiency and 76% brewhouse efficiency which is the best I've had since switching to BIAB!

125° @ 10:20. Set max (1800/ 464°F) on induction and stuck the bucket heater in there.

 

[TANSTAAFB]

That was a bit of a **** show...
Apparently the electricity to the garage in this rental wasn't done very well. There's only one circuit so I couldn't run both the hotplate and the bucket heater. Had an extension cord running from the house on a different circuit, but still couldn't run the hotplate higher than 1200w. Neither the bucket heater or the plate alone was enough to keep a boil and at one point I lost all electric in the garage until I found a hidden switch box with a loose fuse...FML! Finally finished, nailed all my numbers, Speidel is in the fermentation fridge cooling to lager temps. I think I'll still get a Robobrew when winter rolls around!