SYL-2362A2 PID Alarm Wiring

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Culln5

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Hey Guys,
Sometime back I purchased a pre-built controller for my RIMS tube. It was nicely built in a large toolbox. I am in the process of building a brewstand and wanted to downsize the controller housing. I purchased a small enclosure and have successfully swapped everything out.

To my dismay, I found out that the ALARM SWITCH and the ALARM BUZZER was not wired. Can anyone advise how to wire this switch and buzzer?

Thanks in advance!
 
I'm not an electrician but it looks like I should wire.....



  • Common to the buzzer
  • Jump #2, #4, #14 (Hot)
  • #5 & #13 to the switch, then to the buzzer (Hot)
 
I'm not an electrician but it looks like I should wire.....



  • Common to the buzzer
  • Jump #2, #4, #14 (Hot)
  • #5 & #13 to the switch, then to the buzzer (Hot)

Almost.
  • Neutral to the buzzer/lamp
  • Jumper #2 (assuming #2 is the hot power wire to the 2362) to #4 & #13
  • Jumper #5 and #14, then route to alarm switch and then to buzzer/lamp
In most applications of SPDT (single pole, double throw) switches and relays the incoming hot wire goes to the common terminal for the switch/relay. The common terminals for the alarm relays in the 2362 are #4 and #13.

Brew on :mug:
 
Last edited:
OK, I appreciate the help, but I am still confused.....

The Auber link above is for a 240V system (mine is 110v) and shows:

  • Neutral to the buzzer
  • Jump 1, 4, 14
  • 5 & 13 to the switch/buzzer



The Electric Brew Supply schematic is:

  • Neutral to the buzzer
  • Jump 2, 4, 14
  • 5 & 13 to the switch/buzzer

I am leaning towards E-Brew Supply.....

SLY2362A2.jpg


EBrew Supply Wiring.jpg
 
The E-Brew Supply arrangement will work. It does make the NC contact on the AL2 relay unusable, but since you won't be using it, that doesn't really matter. (The Auber diagram does the same thing.) You shouldn't follow a 240V diagram for a 120V system.

Brew on :mug:
 
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