Swivel Nut Flares Connectors... what standard?

[whoaru99]

Am I missing something?

It's not super clear, but what I think I see is post off and flare on for transfer. When transfer is done it's flare off and post back on.

 

[dmaxweb]

Am I missing something? If you take the keg post off and put a flare on it, it won't hold CO2 in the behinning. And if you want to tap it, a keg post is missing.

See post #35. I'm just using the flare instead of the post/poppet and QD for filling kegs from the fermenter. I'm hoping to avoid clogging from dry hop remains and avoid O2 exposure. When keg is full, the beer is not yet carbonated but has CO2 headspace. At that point, I'll simply swap the flare to the post/poppet, cold crash and force carb.
I should not have used the term 'pressure transfer'. I'm just pushing the beer from the fermenter to the keg using CO2. The push speeds up the process and is needed when the beer level in the fermenter gets below the racking arm port in the side of the fermenter.

 

[dmaxweb]

It's not super clear, but what I think I see is post off and flare on for transfer. When transfer is done it's flare off and post back on.

Correct

 

[mac_1103]

What does this racking arm look like? Maybe you should try a hop stopper or something?

 

[dmaxweb]

What does this racking arm look like? Maybe you should try a hop stopper or something?

I've used this for years. It works perfect except when dry hopping. I don't dry hop much but I was just hoping for a simple solution.

 

[mac_1103]

I bet a hop stopper would work great with that FV. They're on sale right now, but definitely more than ten bucks. Worth it to be able to do a truly closed transfer and avoid swapping connections? That's up to you.

 

[Deadalus]

See post #35. I'm just using the flare instead of the post/poppet and QD for filling kegs from the fermenter. I'm hoping to avoid clogging from dry hop remains and avoid O2 exposure. When keg is full, the beer is not yet carbonated but has CO2 headspace. At that point, I'll simply swap the flare to the post/poppet, cold crash and force carb.
I should not have used the term 'pressure transfer'. I'm just pushing the beer from the fermenter to the keg using CO2. The push speeds up the process and is needed when the beer level in the fermenter gets below the racking arm port in the side of the fermenter.

Ok yes but as soon as you remove the keg post to put the flare fitting on, you are introducing oxygen from the atmosphere to the keg.

 

[Deadalus]

I bet a hop stopper would work great with that FV. They're on sale right now, but definitely more than ten bucks. Worth it to be able to do a truly closed transfer and avoid swapping connections? That's up to you.

I have one in my BK and several in kegs where they work fine. I'm not sure about how it might handle the yeast cake but if elevated off the floor a little that would most likely avoid any potential issues. @Broken Crow has made one cheaply.

 

[Broken Crow]

I have one in my BK and several in kegs where they work fine. I'm not sure about how it might handle the yeast cake but if elevated off the floor a little that would most likely avoid any potential issues. @Broken Crow has made one cheaply.

Thanks for the mention! here it is;

SS mesh, SS 'thread', thicker SS 'frame' inside to keep its shape under trub and allow maximum surface top and bottom available to filter....Can be made in any size or shape with a bit of patience, scissors and a large sewing needle.

 

[dmaxweb]

Ok yes but as soon as you remove the keg post to put the flare fitting on, you are introducing oxygen from the atmosphere to the keg.

CO2 is 1.5 times heavier than air. When the keg post is removed, the keg essentially remains filled with CO2 just no longer under pressure. As the keg is filled from the bottom up, the CO2 headspace is vented via the open pressure relief valve in the lid. When the keg is filled with 5 gallons, the headspace is still CO2. When I switch back to the keg post, I put the keg on CO2 via the gas in post and burp the PRV a few times to ensure headspace is CO2 and lid is fully seated. I have no test results but I have to believe any O2 intrusion is insignificant. Besides, it's just beer.

 

[dmaxweb]

I bet a hop stopper would work great with that FV. They're on sale right now, but definitely more than ten bucks. Worth it to be able to do a truly closed transfer and avoid swapping connections? That's up to you.

The Amazon fitting will be here tomorrow. I going to try that first to make sure the process is water tight.

 

[dmaxweb]

Thanks to all for your advice and recommendations!
I'll post my results.

 

[mac_1103]

When the keg post is removed, the keg essentially remains filled with CO2 just no longer under pressure.

Yeah, um, nope. Gasses mix pretty much instantaneously. Even through a relatively small opening. Purging that headspace as soon as you get the post back on doubtless helps, but you might want to consider doing it more than just "a few times."

 

[tracer bullet]

I have no test results but I have to believe any O2 intrusion is insignificant. Besides, it's just beer.

Insignificant and just beer are certainly opinions, everyone may have their own. For a stout I'd tend to not worry about it too much, for a NEIPA I put in the extra work. Identical practices on different beers will get you different results. Or, at least probably give you different opinions on how much it matters and if you taste it or not.

And yes as mentioned, gasses mix, and quickly. The CO2 blanket thing doesn't really exist, certainly not for long anyhow.

 

[dmaxweb]

I bet a hop stopper would work great with that FV. They're on sale right now, but definitely more than ten bucks. Worth it to be able to do a truly closed transfer and avoid swapping connections? That's up to you.

What about a floating dip tube connected to a hose barb on the racking arm? I should add that I only use whole leaf hops.