Ss Brewtech kettles and BeerSmith

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GParkins

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I'm just about to christen my new ½-bbl 3-kettle HERMS system, and I'm looking to create a profile in BeerSmith. I'm using the 0.12 stainless steel figure for mash tun specific heat, but I don't know if that is offset by the recirculation or not. Also, does anybody else use the Ss Brewtech 30-gallon kettles and know the weight to enter in BeerSmith? I guessed 25lb., but I don't know if it matters or not.

I just ran some water testing, and I can pump out all but about ½-gallon. I figure that if I make my mash tun loss .75 gallon, it will be pretty close to what's left behind in the kettle and hoses.
 
Do you use the Infussion Mash tun? I have set mine to 0 for specific heat and BS still overshoots. I lose 2 to 3 C in my 37L Infussion tun after dough in. If using BS recomendations I end up to high even with 0. To get it closer I have to set it to strike temp (initial temp of mash tun) and grist 35C. But I don't do it, I just know that I'll lose 2C for a normal sized grist, and 3C for a big grist. The herms has been spinning a while before dough in.
 
Not using an insulated tun as I recirculate through the HERMS coil. Just a regular 30-gallon kettle.

Aha. I understand. When I used a Blichmann I had it to default 0.12. Maybe SS are a bit thinner. But how much of a difference does that make? I set the temp of mash tun to whatever BS told me to "add grain at xx temp", and set the grains to 5C. It was a little bit back and forth since if I enter a different temp for the mash tun, BS takes that into account and gives me a different strike-temp, so a little bit of juggling until both numbers are the same. That was straight up perfect for me. But that was 15 gallon mash tun.

The recirculation should'nt mean anything, if it's tuned correctly. You should shut of the pump after mash-in to let the grains settle (at least my opinion), and wait for 15 minutes before you start the pump. This will make you want to overshoot the temp a little bit to account for 15 minutes temp-loss.

The important thing is that your RIMS is tuned to give the set temperature in the tun, at a given flow. This is the point where the loop-might offset, since you'll be losing some temp in the hoses between the exit of the RIMS and the mashtun.
 
Not using a RIMS tube, but I understand your point to be: Let BS suggest a strike temp, mash in, let everything settle for a bit, start recirculating, and pay attention to the MLT temp, not the HLT temp.

Here's a pic of the rig. First brew on it next weekend.

IMG_1432.JPG
 
Specific heat of 0.12 is good; not affected by HERMS.
The weight of the tun only matters if you are not preheating it, and have unchecked the box that says adjust temp for equipment.

@Smellyglove your method of setting the MT temp to the strike temp will yield you the same results as unchecking the box I mentioned above. Save the recipe after checking/unchecking the box for the math to catch up. ;)
 
Specific heat of 0.12 is good; not affected by HERMS.
The weight of the tun only matters if you are not preheating it, and have unchecked the box that says adjust temp for equipment.

@Smellyglove your method of setting the MT temp to the strike temp will yield you the same results as unchecking the box I mentioned above. Save the recipe after checking/unchecking the box for the math to catch up. ;)

Doh. Never thought of unchecking it, haha.
 
Not using a RIMS tube, but I understand your point to be: Let BS suggest a strike temp, mash in, let everything settle for a bit, start recirculating, and pay attention to the MLT temp, not the HLT temp.

Here's a pic of the rig. First brew on it next weekend.

View attachment 567982

Looks like fun. One tip might be (if you experience noise) to attach the pumps in brackets which are held by rubber studs, or whatever they are called. The pumps might vibrate during operation and those vibrations can make noise directly at the pump, or transfer through your board and make other stuff vibrate and make noise.
 
Looks like fun. One tip might be (if you experience noise) to attach the pumps in brackets which are held by rubber studs, or whatever they are called. The pumps might vibrate during operation and those vibrations can make noise directly at the pump, or transfer through your board and make other stuff vibrate and make noise.

The pumps are surprisingly quiet. My neighbor has a Colorado BIAB system, and his Chugger sounds like the hammers of Hell. I figured that by mounting them on what amounts to a sounding board, mine would sound worse. Even with both going full tilt, I can carry on a comfortable conversation. Not the case with my neighbor's rig.
 
The pumps are surprisingly quiet. My neighbor has a Colorado BIAB system, and his Chugger sounds like the hammers of Hell. I figured that by mounting them on what amounts to a sounding board, mine would sound worse. Even with both going full tilt, I can carry on a comfortable conversation. Not the case with my neighbor's rig.

that's probably the motor. I was more after the vibrations. But if's it's all good then it's all god :)
 
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