SS Brewtech Infussion Mash Tun

[smadaus]

So I have been looking for a better mash tun for a while now and have had my eyes on the SS Mash Tun. I have watched and read a "tun" of reviews and from everything I am seeing, it seems like a sound investment. Does anyone have an opinion on this particular mash tun and maybe some pros and cons? Or even suggestions on another insulated ss mash tun.

Also I do 5 gallon batches but want the option to move to 10 gallon so I was looking more at the 20 gallon tun. I have read about a couple people doing 5 gallon batches in one of these and said it worked with a little tweaking. Anyone here try that and what was your experience?

Any info is appreciated.
Cheers.

 

[Kerrbrewer]

After researching this I went with the Chapman thermobarrel. Dont remember all the reasons why, but one was the port at the top so I could use an auto sparge. I have been very pleased with mine!

 

[oujens]

For me, if I'm considering spending much money on a mash tun, I would be looking at what it would cost to go electric with recirculating mash. Even a kettle can be insulated with reflectix for cheap. What do you hope to gain with this mash tun vs. other options? What else have you considered?

 

[smadaus]

For me, if I'm considering spending much money on a mash tun, I would be looking at what it would cost to go electric with recirculating mash. Even a kettle can be insulated with reflectix for cheap. What do you hope to gain with this mash tun vs. other options? What else have you considered?

I have in the past considered electric but if I went electric, i'd want to go all electric. Since I am an apartment brewer that isn't really an option right now. My end goal would be to have an indoor electric system.

As for the mash tun, I am just fed up with the struggle of a cooler. It has served me well but definitely time to upgrade. It often leaks at the ball valve hole which would be solved with a welded port, I also found out that it is leaking into the bottom of the cooler where the insulation is which isn't ideal. I recently noticed after about 20 batches through it that the bottom is warped due to the heat making my false bottom rock back and forth. All and all the cooler works but isn't amazing and if I had something actually designed for what it is being used for I'd hope it would hold up better than the cooler.

 

[oujens]

I have in the past considered electric but if I went electric, i'd want to go all electric. Since I am an apartment brewer that isn't really an option right now. My end goal would be to have an indoor electric system.

As for the mash tun, I am just fed up with the struggle of a cooler. It has served me well but definitely time to upgrade. It often leaks at the ball valve hole which would be solved with a welded port, I also found out that it is leaking into the bottom of the cooler where the insulation is which isn't ideal. I recently noticed after about 20 batches through it that the bottom is warped due to the heat making my false bottom rock back and forth. All and all the cooler works but isn't amazing and if I had something actually designed for what it is being used for I'd hope it would hold up better than the cooler.

I feel you there. I actually converted to BIAB to avoid the mash tun all together and had great success. Recently, I converted back to a mash tun to experiment with low oxygen brewing. I bought a cooler kit from Bargain Fittings and was able to get my mash tun leak free by throwing out the stainless washer, moving the silicone washer inside, and adding a red o-ring on the outside with the locknut. Finally leak free! Don't know if you have tried something from Bargain Fittings or BrewHardware, but you might look into that. BIAB is a nice alternative too (especially for apartment brewing - less footprint). Its just hard for me to find the value in an expensive mash tun, but if it frustrates you that much do what you must! Eventually I hope to be full electric and mash in a kettle, but I still might get a kettle for a mash tun and use reflectix to insulate to get away from the cooler for good.

 

[Addiktion]

I went through this as well. My cooler wasn't cutting it anymore. I got a spike brewing 10G kettle and added a false bottom and center pick up tube. I built a RIMS system and a control box all reasonably small but I do have a garage, at my old apartment this was a no go. Anyways I can use my RIMS control panel for my boil by running the PID in manual mode and not connecting the temp probe because a boil is a boil. The only issue I had was the sparge water being colder then I wanted and no way to heat it up (without my propane set up ready). with Spike brewing you can add ports for heating elements and just use a TC cap until you make the step to electric.

 

[smadaus]

Thanks for the help guys, I am still considering everything but I am leaning toward a SS Chapman. At my LHBS they have one for $230, so I might have to take advantage of that.

 

[d3track]

I'd go SS Brewtech over the Chapman, but that is strictly because of the bottom drain.

 

[smadaus]

I'd go SS Brewtech over the Chapman, but that is strictly because of the bottom drain.

So I am only leaning toward the Chapman because the thermometer is analog and because it's 10 gallons. The Brewtech 10 gallon doesn't offer too much more than the Chapman except for the bottom drain which doesn't seem worth the extra $150. So if I got a Brewtech I'd go with the 20 gallon with the intention of doing 10 gallon batches in the future. The only thing is, I have read a bunch about needing a decent grain bed for fly sparging and a low gravity 5 gallon batch wouldn't really give me a reasonable grain bed. The struggle is real!

 

[d3track]

You could always batch sparge or no sparge small grain bills.

 

[Kerrbrewer]

I dont fly sparge with my chapman, but I do continuous sparge with an auto sparge. I do beers that are only 8# grain bill for 5 gallon batch with no problem.

 

[smadaus]

You could always batch sparge or no sparge small grain bills.

That is true I guess I could always change stuff up a bit to make it work.

 

[Smellyglove]

Anyone know if that dent where the thermometer goes is big enough to punch a hole for/installing a 1/2" RTD probe?

And how would you go about with continious recirculation during the mash? Lid just closed enough so slip a hose in between the lid and kettle wall?

 

[EtchyLives]

I have the 20 gallon infussion and do 5 and 10 gallon batches. Works great for both. The 20 gallon system comes with a port for recirculation so all you need is a pump and some hoses.

I like it a tun.

 

[Smellyglove]

Ah. I'm looking at the 10g tun. I'll not go for the 20G because the depth of the maltbed will not be up to "my specs".

But anyone know about the RTD-thing? That's the yes or no point for me getting one of these.

 

[Smellyglove]

Plan B. Any one know if the hole for the temp probe is 1/4"?

 

[EtchyLives]

Plan B. Any one know if the hole for the temp probe is 1/4"?

I'll check when I get to the house. I believe it is at least 1/4" since it looks the same diameter as the thermowell for my fermenter.

You're looking for the inner diameter, correct?

 

[Smellyglove]

I'll check when I get to the house. I believe it is at least 1/4" since it looks the same diameter as the thermowell for my fermenter.

You're looking for the inner diameter, correct?

Yes, if a threaded 1/4" probe will fit without the need to expanding the hole. But even if I need to expand the hole, I'll do that, so it's not super important.

 

[EtchyLives]

Ok, the inner diameter is 1/4 inch, at least as best I can tell without a calipers.