Spike Conical- observations and best practices

[sheikyerbouti]

i have a spike conical but haven't used it yet. during initial fermentation, my thoughts are to use the included 90-degree tc barb fitting on the lid and run tubing to liquid for blowoff. once fermentation slows down and krausen subsides, swap out the 90-degree fitting for the gas manifold and use a quick disconnect on the gas post to run tubing to liquid. anyone else do this? pros/cons to the method? i'm thinking to not use the manifold right away since high krausen could make a mess.

Thats what I did. Worked very well.

 

[itsnotrequired]

I've done that and it works fine. I've also done it with just the manifold on the entire time which works fine for me since I have the CF15 doing 10 gallons. There is plenty of head space. I was thinking of doing the blowoff tube from the gas QD on the manifold next time so I wouldn't have to switch them out and have some oxygen exposure. If have krausen reaching the lid I'd probably stick with the 90 degree barb so you don't run the risk of clogging the release valve. I would bet you'd have enough space for high krausen but I can't say for sure from experience.

i have a cf10 and will be doing 10 gal batches (11+ or so gal of liquid into the conical) so high krausen definitely seems like a concern, especially with big beers. i guess i'll just have to run a few batches and see what happens.

 

[philly224]

Just ordered the tc-100. I'll post some feedback once I get it and start using it!

Now I have to decide if I should get this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048IVBT4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Or wait and try to save for a glycol chiller.

 

[Rhyanmeade]

Just ordered the tc-100. I'll post some feedback once I get it and start using it!

Now I have to decide if I should get this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048IVBT4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Or wait and try to save for a glycol chiller.

Ordered the tc-100 as well. So would an aqua chiller work well enough for cold crashing? I assume you have to hook it to a small reservoir (couple gallons or so), so it would probably be able to cool fairly quickly right, or easily drop 12 gal to below 40°? Or does this chiller go below 40?

 

[philly224]

Ordered the tc-100 as well. So would an aqua chiller work well enough for cold crashing? I assume you have to hook it to a small reservoir (couple gallons or so), so it would probably be able to cool fairly quickly right, or easily drop 12 gal to below 40°? Or does this chiller go below 40?

I've read about people being able to get into the 40s with one but I'm not 100% sure. I wouldn't bank on being able to get it below 45ish though but that is low enough to carb. Someone on the previous page said they got theirs down to 41 with a ten gallon cooler.

And yeah most people use a cooler as a reservoir. The larger the better I think.

 

[timpritchard23]

Just got my jacket and heater too. I use that aquarium chiller, it goes down to 39. During fermentation I keep the reservoir around 55, then set the reservoir to 39, that takes a couple hours. Then I set my conical temp to 43, takes 10ish hours to get there. New jacket should help out too. I keep my lines insulated as well.

 

[itsnotrequired]

an aquarium chiller is great for maintaining fermentation temps, even for lagers. but they are not the greatest for cold crashing and are limited with how cool they can get. cold crashing at 40 will certainly drop out more material than not cold crashing at all but will not do as good a job as getting it down to near freezing (or it can but just takes more time). i opted for a glycol chiller with my setup. sure, they cost more than aquarium chillers but offer faster ramp times and the ability to do a good, quick crash.

 

[philly224]

I might try the DIY method. Seems like some people have built them for around 200.

 

[burdbrew]

To answer burdbrew's question, you will absolutely be able to collect yeast even with an adapter. I don't even dump thrub, just open it up with a 2" tc to 1/2" barb after the 90 elbow, I put a small piece of sanitized hose so I can easily direct the yeast into a mason jar. I just dump the first two cups or so because it is mostly trub, afterwards you have clean yeast. Never clogged, even when doing an IPA with lots of hops.

Awesome Boise, thank you. It's a simple enough solution, and I didn't want to buy more gear for this.

I really like where this thread is going with temperature control. I must be terrible with the search function because I can't seem to find the "it" thread on the topic. DIY is fine with me. Any suggestions for threads?

 

[philly224]

Awesome Boise, thank you. It's a simple enough solution, and I didn't want to buy more gear for this.

I really like where this thread is going with temperature control. I must be terrible with the search function because I can't seem to find the "it" thread on the topic. DIY is fine with me. Any suggestions for threads?

I am going to try replicating what this guy did I think

https://backdeckbrewing.wordpress.com/2017/09/05/glycol-chiller-build/

 

[Boise1024]

As promised here is the view inside the fermenter. As you can see the welds for the handles and legs do show through, but are completely smooth. The is no ridge or ledge and nothing gets stuck in there, you can clean it easily using a wet rag.

BTW, that dunkelweizen with wlp300 fermented under pressure is phenomenal. Some nice subdued banana esters, didn't get much clove though.

 

[Rhyanmeade]

Is there any practical purpose for the racking arm, assuming you are removing the tub from the bottom?

 

[Neens_]

To locate the yeast cake and not pull that into your serving vessel

 

[philly224]

On that note when you guys dry hop a lot are you able to get it to dump out of the bottom dump valve?

Last batch I dry hopped with about 6 ounces of unbagged pellet hops and there they kind of just got stuck in there. When I opened the dump valve liquid was coming out but no hops. This was not cold crashed or under pressure so maybe that was my issue?

Anyways I only got like 4 gallons out of my batch which was kind of disappointing. Going to keg a stout that's been sitting for two weeks so we will see how that goes!

 

[dunnry]

Is there any practical purpose for the racking arm, assuming you are removing the tub from the bottom?

In a commercial brewery, yes. At home, not really (if you have been dumping trub and yeast).

That being said, I need a racking arm because I actually don't do a trub or yeast dump and prefer to let it ferment with the batch. The reasoning is simple - that stuff props up the beer to the racking arm. You make it harder to get all the beer out if you dump it and you lose pints (or you have to rack out the dump valve - no thanks).

 

[dunnry]

I am replying here because [email protected] has not replied to 2 emails in over a week. I am having issues with my CF10's butterfly valve - it leaks. I didn't find out until I had filled the conical for the first time of course. Right now, I have another valve over my original butterfly valve to stop the leak. It's not a huge leak - just a drip every 10 secs - but it shouldn't leak.

How do I get someone to respond to my emails and replace this valve?

Just a follow up - it appears there was an issue with them receiving email from my account. Once we got connected, I had a new butterfly valve in 2 days. Great response and very pleased. I will just have to find a different email account to send from next time.

 

[Rhyanmeade]

So if you do dump the tub, what is the best way to get every oz possible out of this conical? I'll measure here this afternoon sometime, but if your running a setup with the 90°elbow and a sight glass, and you pressure transfer out of the racking port, your leaving quite a bit in the bottom. And the racking arm doesn't really go below the level of the racking port anyway. Just looking for suggestions.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I have the cf15 with the pressure manifold and no matter what I do I can't get it to hold pressure. I loose about 1psi every 5-6 hours. I read somewhere on spikes website that in order to maintain a specific psi when fermenting that it requires keeping the co2 attached which of course is required just as carbing in a Corny keg would but I can't even get it to hold whatever psi i fill it to without anything in it. If I left my co2 tank attached it would go empty quite fast I imagine. I did notice the mating surface were the lid gasket contact's is quite scratched up on the conical side. Could that be the issue? Do the other spike users have the same issues? Thanks

 

[SpikeBrewing]

I have the cf15 with the pressure manifold and no matter what I do I can't get it to hold pressure. I loose about 1psi every 5-6 hours. I read somewhere on spikes website that in order to maintain a specific psi when fermenting that it requires keeping the co2 attached which of course is required just as carbing in a Corny keg would but I can't even get it to hold whatever psi i fill it to without anything in it. If I left my co2 tank attached it would go empty quite fast I imagine. I did notice the mating surface were the lid gasket contact's is quite scratched up on the conical side. Could that be the issue? Do the other spike users have the same issues? Thanks

Sorry about the trouble! Any surface imperfections on the lip would not cause issue unless it's 1/8" gouge; engineering specifically designed for the gasket to be extra soft to take up any gaps in alignment. Can you confirm the gasket is installed correctly with the pointy side down towards the hopper? This is by far the most common issue we see when it comes to 'leaks'.

If the lid gasket is installed correctly we'd recommend spraying sanitizer on all the TC fittings to see if you have a bad seal.

Lastly, if you're at 5-6psi the wort could be absorbing some CO2. Also reducing temp that can cause the lose of pressure as well.

Hope that helps!

 

[Blazinlow86]

The gasket is definitely in the Correct position. The 5 psi was only a example as it happens regardless of the pressure. I can't see any obvious leakes using sanitizer at this point. I am very sceptical about the ball lock fitting on the manifold however. It was leaking originally but after tightening it I don't see any bubbles however it can't be tightened fully as it has a rubber oring that will squeeze out if fully tightened??? Can you please confirm how tight the ball lock fitting should be on the manifold. I have ONLY tested it using water at this point. If my unit is not defective and filled without anything it should hold say 10 psi for weeks correct?

 

[Rhyanmeade]

I have the cf15 with the pressure manifold and no matter what I do I can't get it to hold pressure. I loose about 1psi every 5-6 hours. I read somewhere on spikes website that in order to maintain a specific psi when fermenting that it requires keeping the co2 attached which of course is required just as carbing in a Corny keg would but I can't even get it to hold whatever psi i fill it to without anything in it. If I left my co2 tank attached it would go empty quite fast I imagine. I did notice the mating surface were the lid gasket contact's is quite scratched up on the conical side. Could that be the issue? Do the other spike users have the same issues? Thanks

Any liquid will absorb the CO2 for a period of time before stabilizing. You can test the conical empty. I did have to take some 2000 grit wet sandpaper and smoothed the lip on my CF10 to get a good seal, but also make sure that all the TC connectors are VERY tight. The pressure manifold also did take some time. On mine it didn't seem like the posts threaded in very far, but I took it all back apart, retaped, and then cranked them in as hard as I could and finally got a good seal.

 

[timpritchard23]

Mine holds pressure for extended periods of time without putting pressure into it. Can't really give any recommendations on how to get it to seal as I just clamped everything down and sealed up fine.

 

[Blazinlow86]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll try it with just c02. Still unsure how tight the ball Lock connecter to prv fitting should be? If I crank it super tight the oring gets squished out. Leaving it handtight seems incorrect?

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll try it with just c02. Still unsure how tight the ball Lock connecter to prv fitting should be? If I crank it super tight the oring gets squished out. Leaving it handtight seems incorrect?

Please see attached diagram for the gas post in question. I'm sure it's something simple. Every single 'leak' issue we've seen has been easily resolved. Usually a simple 'duh' fix

 

[Blazinlow86]

That is exactly what I was looking for. Mine's way overtight

 

[Blazinlow86]

As a follow up I retested my cf15 last night using no liquid and retighted the ball lock connection as per the above diagram and its now holding pressure. Thanks for all the advice and thank you for your quick response spike. I recieved a email reply promptly as well as thru the forum

 

[jdr01]

Yes, mine let the hops blow through with the pressure.

 

[jdr01]

How is everyone filling the conical from the boil vessel? I simply drop a hose through an opening in the cover. I do put some CO in there first.
I was wondering about filling through one of the valves. I have seen a commercial brewery put the yeast in first through the bottom and the beer pumped in after the yeast.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I haven't used mine yet however I plan to pump it from my cfc directly into the raking valve using the supplied TC barb fitting. Allow the cold break to settle and dump. Then aerate with my o2 wand thru the top 1.5 port and finally transfer the 1.5 barbed fitting to the top port and into my blow-off. After the initial fermentation is finished and dryhoped added I Will switch to the pressure manifold for the remainder of fermentation to carb up naturally

 

[timpritchard23]

I've done both through the racking valve and just dropping the hose into the open pressure valve. Both are easy enough but I think through the top is cleaner plus adds some o2 splashing it in.

 

[Blazinlow86]

More direct answer I plan to pump it in because my chiller is located at the same level as the valve and I imagine I'll loose less wort as pumping into the top would require a longer hose

 

[jdr01]

Thanks for all the replies. I will try through the valve and see how it works for me.

 

[sheikyerbouti]

This happened to me as well with 6oz dry hop in the conical. When I opened the valve, a small amount of liquid trickled out, but I had to use a screwdriver to break up the sludge. I think the elbow may be the issue. Next time I plan on skipping it and just going straight down into a bucket.

 

[philly224]

How do you guys do dumps under pressure? I was thinking about just getting the sight glass, filling it, close valve, take off and empty the repeat as needed. Does anyone do this? Stuff starts flying everywhere if I open the valve under pressure.

 

[sheikyerbouti]

How do you guys do dumps under pressure? I was thinking about just getting the sight glass, filling it, close valve, take off and empty the repeat as needed. Does anyone do this? Stuff starts flying everywhere if I open the valve under pressure.

I haven't tried under pressure, but I would be hesitant. Maybe open the valve first, then hit with a couple lb's of CO2?

 

[philly224]

Got my tc-100 with the heater! Seems pretty awesome so far! This is my first batch so I'll report back. Have it hooked up to my DIY glycol chiller and will try to cold crash and carb with the carb stone next weekend if fermentation is done.

 

[pennengr]

Philly - is that a CF10? I just got a jacket for mine and it doesn't seem to be fitting as well as yours. I've sent an email to Spike this morning.

 

[philly224]

No mines a cf5

 

[itsnotrequired]

Got my tc-100 with the heater! Seems pretty awesome so far! This is my first batch so I'll report back. Have it hooked up to my DIY glycol chiller and will try to cold crash and carb with the carb stone next weekend if fermentation is done.

got mine on thursday, playing with it right now. i had some problems with the pump. it wouldn't pump, just made a buzzing noise. i finally gave it a whack with a screw driver handle and away she went. jacket is nice, a tight fit and tight around all the tc connections. i'm cold crashing some water now just for testing, seems to be working fine. next is a test of the heater and cip ball. the john guest connectors are a little tricky with the soft cooling tubing. i had several leaks until i pushed on them way harder than i thought i needed to and they went further into the fitting, no leaks now.

 

[pennengr]

No mines a cf5

Thanks