In this design the switch sits a top of the mash via an adjustable plastic tube that also protects the wiring. The wiring or most of the switch for that matter is never in the mash water. The 'float' part of the switch simply goes up and down. When it goes down all the way it turns on the pump, filling the mash tun until the mash tun is filled with enough sparge water to return the float part of the switch all the way back up--then the switch turns off the pump again... This repeats until all the mash water is gone.
The float switch sold by MoreBeer.com, http://www.morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=16547, doesn't look like much different of a design then mine.
One electrical box from MoreBeer v.s. mine has two boxes (you easily could use one if you want), very similar float switch judging by the picture, if not the same, and it's 90 smacks... I would say just about the right mark up for a retailer. Mine will cost under $25. MoreBeer's is also rated the same: Any pump of 1/3 horse power or less, as that is the limit using standard household current of 15 amps and 14 guage wire.
NOTE: You are working with 120 volt household current so make sure you install all ground wires. Make sure the wiring is adequately protected from moisture. That is common sense when working with anything electrical.
The float switch is designed to be in water and is already sealed by the manufacturer with silicone. It will not cause a problem. But yes if you damage a wire and water crosses the circuit you may have a short and blow a fuse. Just like any electrical device. If the wires inside the mash tun cross due to moisture and a crack in the wire, you may have a short or the pump may flicker on and off... They are the same switchable wire-- so it's not as dramatic, even at 110 volts, as crossing wires with opposite polarities. If you did suspect a short or the pump turned on and off randomly--- don't do anything stupid-- like sticking your hand in the mash tun, simply unplug the power supply and inspect and fix before using again.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/drewmazzeo/album?.dir=/dbcc&urlhint=actn,del:s,1:f,0
This is where i got the float switch: http://www.grainger.com/industrial-supplies/Controls2A554.html
9 smacks...
The float switch sold by MoreBeer.com, http://www.morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=16547, doesn't look like much different of a design then mine.
One electrical box from MoreBeer v.s. mine has two boxes (you easily could use one if you want), very similar float switch judging by the picture, if not the same, and it's 90 smacks... I would say just about the right mark up for a retailer. Mine will cost under $25. MoreBeer's is also rated the same: Any pump of 1/3 horse power or less, as that is the limit using standard household current of 15 amps and 14 guage wire.
NOTE: You are working with 120 volt household current so make sure you install all ground wires. Make sure the wiring is adequately protected from moisture. That is common sense when working with anything electrical.
The float switch is designed to be in water and is already sealed by the manufacturer with silicone. It will not cause a problem. But yes if you damage a wire and water crosses the circuit you may have a short and blow a fuse. Just like any electrical device. If the wires inside the mash tun cross due to moisture and a crack in the wire, you may have a short or the pump may flicker on and off... They are the same switchable wire-- so it's not as dramatic, even at 110 volts, as crossing wires with opposite polarities. If you did suspect a short or the pump turned on and off randomly--- don't do anything stupid-- like sticking your hand in the mash tun, simply unplug the power supply and inspect and fix before using again.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/drewmazzeo/album?.dir=/dbcc&urlhint=actn,del:s,1:f,0
This is where i got the float switch: http://www.grainger.com/industrial-supplies/Controls2A554.html
9 smacks...