Simple 2 Vessel Plumbing

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

thekraken

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2014
Messages
1,957
Reaction score
449
Location
DFW
I've been pondering to coming up with a new brew system and stand and was hoping to get some feedback from you guys on the attached configuration. This is drawing #3 and easily the simplest of the bunch (and simplest from those I've seen around hbt).

Is it a bad idea to put the CFC and RIMS tube in series?

Please give me your thoughts, suggestions, concerns, etc... this seems too simple.

yfR7CaP.png


One concern I had was that there would be ~30' of 1/2" line from pump to either vessel because of the cfc, don't know if that would cause any problems. I'm hoping that with the bottom drain like it is that it would siphon any wort out of the lines as it drains, that sound reasonable?

Proposed CFC:
IhDvMp0.png
 
At 7 valves, there's still some simplifying you can do. I just sketched up something for ya. 3x3way valves and an immersion chiller instead of CFC. Waaaay less resistance this way. And immersion chillers can be quite fast, faster than CFCs. My basic 25' 3/8 copper chiller gets my 5g batch below 130 degrees (DMS threshold) within 5 minutes, and down to pitch temperature inside 15.

2vessel3valve.png
 
I think I've already convinced my self that I'm going to at least give the cfc a try. I've been using an immersion chiller up to this point and it can be a p.i.t.a! It's the rib cage variety and just gets in the way of any hop spiders or whirlpooling.

I could cut the length of the cfc in half. As it is it's performace should be a little better than the JaDeD CFC, cutting it in half would make it comporable to the Cyclone CFC (jaded chiller comparisons)

3-way valves is certainly a good idea
 
If you use a regular looped IC, you can place the spider inside its loops. (inside the loop of the immersion chiller). That's how I do it. You just size your IC to be narrow enough in diameter to leave the wort room to be stirred with the whirlpool.

If you're set on a CFC, maybe try the coiled kind and position as pictured. Your plumbing doesn't really change.

2vessel3valve.png
 
I still need flow control on the pump and would like some tap water
zyuw5u6.png
 
What do you want to do with the tap water? other than feed the cfc that is?

Easy access to running water for cleaning and filling the vessels. IF I have it inline with the system I can use the house water pressure to flush everything out too.
 
If you want to direct fill the mash tun via the tap water, this should work. you can ditch the purge valve by using sight gauges - they're an opening for air to escape. I've had lousy experience using a purge valve - i find air pockets get trapped in the kettle fittings and then make their way out.

One of the valves is a 4-way "L" type now.

2vessel3valve.png
 
This was my design before I decided to go with a 2 pump setup to make it cheaper for electric valves.
uRJ1aDD.png
 
Huh could've sworn that I saw them last year when I was researching my build. Can't find 'em on google, ebay, amazon, or aliexpress.

Nevermind, 3-way valves are good buy you'll need two.
 
With the original configuration, the chiller and RIMS tube in series, I would be able to use the RIMS tube to assist bringing the kettle to boil (kettle is propane). I've also brewed a recipe that call for whirlpooling different hops at different temps for varying lengths of time, having the RIMS could be helpful here too. Admittedly, I've only ever seen that whirlpooling procedure in that one recipe. Worth it?

Another way of asking: is there a good reason I wouldn't want the chiller and rims tube inline?

I know the extra line in the cfc would be a place to loose heat when recirculating the mash... if the cfc outer tube had water in it, not flowing, it might act as a buffer once heated up..?
 
is there a benefit to having the second vessel at all? If you have to use full volume of water then what is the benefit of the second vessel over just a BIAB setup? Im looking at something like a breweasy for my next build but dont see why i would need the second vessel.
 
is there a benefit to having the second vessel at all? If you have to use full volume of water then what is the benefit of the second vessel over just a BIAB setup? Im looking at something like a breweasy for my next build but dont see why i would need the second vessel.

I've thought the same thing. But if I'm doing a big beer and a 10 gallon batch, I can't do a full volume mash. In that case I need a second vessel. Think brutus 20.

MoreBeer's words, not mine: "eliminates the cloudy wort, messy lifting, and does so with much better efficiency!"
 
Automation was the main driver that made me consider it over a single vessel. Allows for back to back brewing as well and if you dont have to use a bag with 2 vessel if you don't want to.
 
With the original configuration, the chiller and RIMS tube in series, I would be able to use the RIMS tube to assist bringing the kettle to boil (kettle is propane). I've also brewed a recipe that call for whirlpooling different hops at different temps for varying lengths of time, having the RIMS could be helpful here too. Admittedly, I've only ever seen that whirlpooling procedure in that one recipe. Worth it?

Another way of asking: is there a good reason I wouldn't want the chiller and rims tube inline?

I know the extra line in the cfc would be a place to loose heat when recirculating the mash... if the cfc outer tube had water in it, not flowing, it might act as a buffer once heated up..?

I think we're getting to fine enough details that the prudent brewer would say "try it out and see what works". I can definitely vouch that my brewery design and process has changed over time to account for unexpected behavior.

Whirlpooling at different temperatures is indeed a thing. I use my IC, drop the whole batch to desired temp, cut the IC water, and then whirlpool at desired temp. I get temperature loss over time but it's like 10 degrees in an hour, not terrible.
 
Back
Top