Simple 1375w eBIAB overview

[suckmyale]

I’m going to be taking a huge page out of Disintegr8or’s playbook in this thread:

Parts to be used (already purchased):
- 5500 element at 120 (yeah I know 1375w)
- PID MyPIN TD4-SNR
- FOTEK – 25A SSR w/ Heatsink
- Silver solder/Hotpot 1.5” TC kit from brewhardware.
- 8x8x4 PVC Enclosure
I have a DC pump to recirculate which I will just power separately.

I’m not sure if the element will be enough to boil 3-4 gallons of wort, but I already bought it, so I might as well try.

I have 2 separate dedicated 15 GFCI amp outlets in the kitchen, however, there are 20amp breakers in the panel. So if the element isn’t powerful enough, I will look into replacing those outlets with 20amp ones.

The original intent was going to be a proof of concept/beta version/money saver. And make it easier to brew roughly 3G eBIAB batches.

My thoughts:
- Use 12/3 extension cord to supply power to control panel.
- Wire it immediately to a single pole 20amp switch, providing on/off power to the panel. This one?

Or should I get a double pole switch, or is this a bad/stupid idea?

- Wire in the PID (with fuse and smaller wire).
- Wire in the SSR and Element through this switched outlet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3DY3M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I will go more in-depth with wiring questions, once I get some opinions on this. Thinking about an e-stop, but what is the difference between the first switch and an e-stop (there might still be power in the SSR/control panel, where the e-stop trips the GFCI)?

Thanks

 

[beeton]

I’m going to be taking a huge page out of Disintegr8or’s playbook in this thread:

Parts to be used (already purchased):
- 5500 element at 120 (yeah I know 1375w)
- PID MyPIN TD4-SNR
- FOTEK – 25A SSR w/ Heatsink
- Silver solder/Hotpot 1.5” TC kit from brewhardware.
- 8x8x4 PVC Enclosure
I have a DC pump to recirculate which I will just power separately.

I’m not sure if the element will be enough to boil 3-4 gallons of wort, but I already bought it, so I might as well try.


I have 2 separate dedicated 15 GFCI amp outlets in the kitchen, however, there are 20amp breakers in the panel. So if the element isn’t powerful enough, I will look into replacing those outlets with 20amp ones.
Please ensure that the house wires are 12awg!!

The original intent was going to be a proof of concept/beta version/money saver. And make it easier to brew roughly 3G eBIAB batches.

My thoughts:
- Use 12/3 extension cord to supply power to control panel.
- Wire it immediately to a single pole 20amp switch, providing on/off power to the panel. This one?

Or should I get a double pole switch, or is this a bad/stupid idea?

- Wire in the PID (with fuse and smaller wire).
- Wire in the SSR and Element through this switched outlet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3DY3M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I will go more in-depth with wiring questions, once I get some opinions on this. Thinking about an e-stop, but what is the difference between the first switch and an e-stop (there might still be power in the SSR/control panel, where the e-stop trips the GFCI)?

Thanks

.

 

[suckmyale]

I haven't verified that the wiring to the GFCI is 12awg yet. I don't need to yet, as I'm going to run the 1375w element, which won't pull 15a. But everything in the control panel will be 20amp 'ready' in-case I need to upgrade.

So here is what I drew up....going through many, many other samples...

I do have 2 questions, based of other thoughts/parts I found. They are in red text on the diagram.

Q1 - from the wirenut to the fuse, should that wire be 12awg or is 18awg ok? I was thinking that it should be 12awg until the fuse, but maybe I'm over thinking this.

Q2 - I found some 120VAC Neon Lamp, and figured I'd like to incorporate them to see when things are switched on. The wires are only 22awg, so I'm not sure about pumping 20 amps through them What is the solution to using them?

I found a 12/3 SJTW brand new extension cord that I'm going to use.