Several questions for experienced all grain brewers

[Beavis740]

1) I have a SPIKE Flex Plus, with a "manifold" on it, which includes a pressure guage, a ball lock male connector, and a PRV valve. How should I clean/sanitize this? I am concerned with damaging the pressure gauge with liquids. Also, how does one go about "pressure fermenting" with these FLEX Plus's?

2) Does Bevflex pvc tubing qualify as "EVA Barrier?"

3) I bought an "stainless steel element" contained in a RIMS tube. After two batches, the element has turned copper colored. Was it never Stainless in the first place? A Oxyclean & PBW wash did not help get the copper color off.

4) I used SAF 05 in a small Irish Stout (OG was 35). I harvested 1/2 cup of its slurry two weeks after it was pitched; I then used that slurry in an American Blonde Ale (OG of 45). My question is: I did not oxegonate the wort in the first batch due to it's a dry yeast. Did I need to oxegonate the second batch, as the yeast was second generation/slurry? Or could I have treated it as I did the original batch?

5) (Especially for any LODO readers) I chilled via plate chiller with the kettle's lid removed. Would it of been better to leave it on?

6) How often should a guy recalibrate a pH meter? Is it something to be done every brew, or just the one time, when you buy it? Or every six months or whatever?

I know some of these are dumb questions, and I have ideas on them, just wanted input or confirmation of my thoughts. If you see a question here you know the answe to, please reply. Thanks!

 

[shoengine]

1. It's made to be used with beverages. Clean/ sanitize as normal although I would immerse it as an assembly.

2. Skip

3. I've never seen an element stay shiny.

4. That's a bucket o' worms. Some say oxygenation is not necessary or even harmful.

5. Why? Would the lid in place keep an air tight seal for some reason?

6. Follow the directions. I personally haven't recalibrated mine in a year, but I'm not terribly picky about hundredths.

 

[DannyBoy270]

1) I have a SPIKE Flex Plus, with a "manifold" on it, which includes a pressure guage, a ball lock male connector, and a PRV valve. How should I clean/sanitize this? I am concerned with damaging the pressure gauge with liquids. Also, how does one go about "pressure fermenting" with these FLEX Plus's?

2) Does Bevflex pvc tubing qualify as "EVA Barrier?"

3) I bought an "stainless steel element" contained in a RIMS tube. After two batches, the element has turned copper colored. Was it never Stainless in the first place? A Oxyclean & PBW wash did not help get the copper color off.

4) I used SAF 05 in a small Irish Stout (OG was 35). I harvested 1/2 cup of its slurry two weeks after it was pitched; I then used that slurry in an American Blonde Ale (OG of 45). My question is: I did not oxegonate the wort in the first batch due to it's a dry yeast. Did I need to oxegonate the second batch, as the yeast was second generation/slurry? Or could I have treated it as I did the original batch?

5) (Especially for any LODO readers) I chilled via plate chiller with the kettle's lid removed. Would it of been better to leave it on?

6) How often should a guy recalibrate a pH meter? Is it something to be done every brew, or just the one time, when you buy it? Or every six months or whatever?

I know some of these are dumb questions, and I have ideas on them, just wanted input or confirmation of my thoughts. If you see a question here you know the answe to, please reply. Thanks!

1) +1 on the previous reply. If you're still concerned about the gauge could you simply remove it and put a nipple & cap fitting there in it's place?

2) No idea, does it really matter tho?

3) No expert here as I still use propane, but you sure it's not just a "heat tint" ?

4) Dry yeast has built in reserves that your 2nd Gen will not. Right, wrong, or indifferent I always add yeast nutrient and aerate my wort when using harvested yeast.

5) I say no. Not 100% a LODO guy, but your yeast is going to utilize some of that DO anyway after pitch. Likewise, I'd be more worried about DMS with a hot sealed kettle than oxygen issues.

6) lol...considering I still haven't calibrated mine despite talking about it for 6mo....when you feel like you should

Cheers

 

[NeoBrew]

You should post a picture of your heating element. If you take some steel wool or even just some brewer's friend to it and clean it off you will quickly learn if it is copper or stainless.

I calibrate my PH meter every brew day. That is what you are supposed to do by laboratory standards. Mine is not usually off by more than a tenth. For most of us that would be considered a nominal amount.

 

[Beavis740]

You should post a picture of your heating element. If you take some steel wool or even just some brewer's friend to it and clean it off you will quickly learn if it is copper or stainless.

I calibrate my PH meter every brew day. That is what you are supposed to do by laboratory standards. Mine is not usually off by more than a tenth. For most of us that would be considered a nominal amount.

 

[Bobby_M]

2) Does Bevflex pvc tubing qualify as "EVA Barrier?"
No, they are polar opposites. Bevlex let's much more O2 through than EVA.

3) I bought an "stainless steel element" contained in a RIMS tube. After two batches, the element has turned copper colored. Was it never Stainless in the first place? A Oxyclean & PBW wash did not help get the copper color off.
Just a little heat coloring. It is possible that element dry fired for a short time for that coloration to happen.

4) I used SAF 05 in a small Irish Stout (OG was 35). I harvested 1/2 cup of its slurry two weeks after it was pitched; I then used that slurry in an American Blonde Ale (OG of 45). My question is: I did not oxegonate the wort in the first batch due to it's a dry yeast. Did I need to oxegonate the second batch, as the yeast was second generation/slurry? Or could I have treated it as I did the original batch?

Yes, you need to replenish glycogen in the yeast that has been harvested with oxygen.

5) (Especially for any LODO readers) I chilled via plate chiller with the kettle's lid removed. Would it of been better to leave it on?

 

[NeoBrew]

That certainly looks like stainless steel. I think you just have built up some residue from the heat/wort. If it bothers you some Bar Keepers Friend and some elbow grease will get that off.

 

[Beavis740]

Thanks all - much appreciated.