Ready to move to all grain, any equipment kit suggestions?

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I've done nothing but batch sparge since I started brewing. That being said there are probably those who will say that fly sparging is vastly better. I am given to understand that with modern malts there isn't all that much to be gained from fly sparging and I typically get 80% efficiency from my AG setup. There will be others, I am sure, who will argue vehemently to the contrary.

After draining the first runnings I will calculate the volume drawn and, based on that, figure how many quarts of sparge water are needed. I add that many quarts to the mash tun, stir and let stand for 10 min +/- and then begin vorlouf. I do use a grant to allow the run-off to drain at a constant rate. I continue the vorlouff untill the runnings are clear which may take 10 - 20 minutes. Only then will I allow the grant to drain into the boil kettle.

Batch sparge has worked well for me and I see no reason to change, YMMV.

Cheers!
:mug:


Great to hear! One of the things I keep seeing is in order to compensate for the loss of efficiency is to increase your grain bill by ~10%?

Gotcha! I'm a little surprised it takes you 10-20 minutes to get it clear. Most of the videos I've seen are clear after 1-2 pitchers full. Shouldn't you do this before draining your first running?
 
Hello,

I have a 32q HLT (formerly a turkey fryer kit). I bought two 44q MT and Boil kettles from Academy Sports for 45.00 each. got my bulkhead thermostats and ball valves from Amazon. Got another turkey fryer burner from a neighbor and will soon be getting a banjo burner for my boil to limit the amount of lifting and movement. So far so great!
 
Great to hear! One of the things I keep seeing is in order to compensate for the loss of efficiency is to increase your grain bill by ~10%?

Gotcha! I'm a little surprised it takes you 10-20 minutes to get it clear. Most of the videos I've seen are clear after 1-2 pitchers full. Shouldn't you do this before draining your first running?

Sorry for the confusion on that, and yes, I do vourlauf after mash and sparge.

The time required seems to vary with the recipe and I've yet to get a clear handle on why. I buy grain in bulk and grind it myself so variability of grind isn't the answer.

I drain the mash tun at a very slow rate into the grant. Some batches come clear after just a couple of pitchers through. Some, on the other hand, require 4 or 5 pitchers (4 qts ea.) to get them to the clarity I am looking for. On those occasions I may be recirculating wort for a half hour or more. But, as others have said, you don't need to be as AR as I am about this. Get it as clear as you like and with a little Irish Moss or Whirfloc you're good to go.

It's nice to know that there isn't a "single right way" to do this. You're still going to make some pretty darned good beer!

Cheers!
:mug:
 
I'm close to Butler too. Any HB clubs, or LHBS around here?

There's the porterhouse brew shop in Harmony on Rt. 19. It's right next to the beer distributor. May be kind of far for you depending on where you are. If you're in Butler county it's a lot closer than Country Wines.
 
I tried searching, but couldn't find anything recent on a good equipment kit to get. I've been brewing extract for a year now, and feel its time to move on.

I think my burner from Northern Brewer, and wort chiller will suffice. But I don't know if my 8 gallon kettle is big enough.

Also for a grain mill I was thinking the Cereal Killer from AIH.

I like the looks of this kit since if I decide to do 10 gallon batches, I'm I worry about lifting a hot heavy kettle of water and pouring in...

http://www.northernbrewer.com/fermenters-favorites-essential-all-grain-brewing-starter-kit-10-gallon

Here's probably your best deal on a cooler to convert. http://m.lowes.com/pd/Igloo-10-Gallon-Plastic-Beverage-Cooler/4767313
 
biab is a great way to go all grain. Probably the only other upgrade I did was buying a Ceral Killer mill so i could buy bulk brewers malt and mill at home. This keeps it fresh and cheap.
 
Another quick question! I may have to stick with extract for 2-3 more months. I'm putting the money I have towards the all grain set up to taking my friend on vacation before he gets shipped out to basic training this summer.

My tap water is decent I believe anyways... We still drink bottle water out of habit, but recently they switched the source from our nasty river to obviously better lake.

My Star-San stays clear and potent almost indefinitely with the tap water. I'm thinking about putting this together:

http://www.brewmorebeer.com/building-a-water-filter-for-brewing/

And using that in coordination with campden tablets.

I also plan on calling the water company referencing back to this thread I posted last year (I've just busy and hadn't got around to it yet I never forgot).

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=548732
 
hmm i dunno. That thing looks like a basic filter that seems similar to a brita filter. I use one of them (attached to the sink) for my brewing water, but I havent had a lot of issues with water chemistry. The brewery down the street doesnt do much of anything to treat their water either

If you want to treat your water, youd probably need to purchase reverse osmosis water and build up the mineral profile to suit the beer you are brewing. But making the jump to all grain and doing water chemistry stuff at the same time might make ti had to pinpoint any issues with your whole process. Unless you know that there are issues coming from water chemistry in your beers, I would hold off on it
 

I use one of these: http://www.walmart.com/ip/14504321

Same idea, just doesn't have the removable filter, and costs less. One thing I'll mention is that it's worth getting a "potable water hose" so that you don't get that garden hose stink in your brewing water. Even the filter doesn't get that out.

If you're going to buy a water filter, do yourself a favor and buy a $10 0.1gram scale from Amazon and some CaCl and Gypsum from your home brew shop.
 
hmm i dunno. That thing looks like a basic filter that seems similar to a brita filter. I use one of them (attached to the sink) for my brewing water, but I havent had a lot of issues with water chemistry. The brewery down the street doesnt do much of anything to treat their water either

If you want to treat your water, youd probably need to purchase reverse osmosis water and build up the mineral profile to suit the beer you are brewing. But making the jump to all grain and doing water chemistry stuff at the same time might make ti had to pinpoint any issues with your whole process. Unless you know that there are issues coming from water chemistry in your beers, I would hold off on it

But won't it improve the taste? I've had water that was filtered plenty of times, and it does seem to taste a lot better.
 
I use one of these: http://www.walmart.com/ip/14504321

Same idea, just doesn't have the removable filter, and costs less. One thing I'll mention is that it's worth getting a "potable water hose" so that you don't get that garden hose stink in your brewing water. Even the filter doesn't get that out.

If you're going to buy a water filter, do yourself a favor and buy a $10 0.1gram scale from Amazon and some CaCl and Gypsum from your home brew shop.

Ah cool thanks, I already have a drinking water hose, and plan on getting another. Another issue with the garden hoses is a lot of them aren't lead free.

I'll keep that in mind!
 
I think my burner from Northern Brewer, and wort chiller will suffice. But I don't know if my 8 gallon kettle is big enough.
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I think this account is a bot or something. Check the image tags when you quote.

It just repeated one of my sentences lol.
 
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