Radical winemaking (ghetto stuff)

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RachmaelBenApplebaum

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So I was able to get 2 5-gallon buckets of drop fruit from my work's Zinfandel vines today, actual weight unknown. Much of it was getting ripe (~15brix, some quite tart still) and had some decent color. I decided what the hell and picked through the bunches and de-stemmed by hand. I then carefully washed the beautiful GF's feet and had her commence to stomp the grapes in a bucket, yielding about 2 1/2 gallons of must. The must tasted pretty acidic so I went to work on my whacked-out scheme, adding an 8lb ice block(drinking water quality) 1 tsp pectic enzyme (just because) 5 campden tablets just to be on the safe side of things, and a liberal few spoonfuls of A-Amylase. I also chaptalized with 4lbs of cane sugar (~1.33repeating lbs per gallon) and threw in about a pound of old elderberries that still have some color to them that I used for making elderberry extract.

NOW, my speculations. The elderberry is supposed to give it some better color since some of the berries, albeit fairly ripe and colorful, were under ripe, without imparting much flavor since the bulk of their color was extracted with brandy for tincture. The A-Amylase I suspected might be able to convert the high amounts of starch present in the unripe grapes into sugar, and if nothing else it'll help keep a haze problem at bay. The acidity of the must is going to be mitigated by dilution with water from the ice, the basic nature of elderberries, and potentially a correction with calcium carbonate before fermentation. I plan on letting the must cold-soak macerate with the ice for a day or so before inoculating. I was going to use 71B to help mitigate some of the acidity as well, being known for converting malic acid into alcohol and commonly used on red noveau wines and some provencial reds and rose as well. I figured all of these elements would work nicely to create something drinkable from the grapes I was able to get my hands on. I'm thinking color extraction from the Zin skins should be fairly decent. I also considered using Assmanshausen yeast, as I have a good supply, but I'm worried about the acidty, which I can check when I take readings before fermentation.

Comments? Holes in my ideas? Am I nuts? Will it be a learning experience?(<-I think so!)
 
Using underripe fruit can be extremely problematic, the first problem I see is that the 15 brix, this is going to make an 8% wine at best, the fact that you are diluting it even further in an attempt to lower the acidity will lower that more yet.
The bigger issues associated with underripe fruit are:

&#8226; Underripe tannins
&#8226; Decreased fruity aromas - a very bland wine
&#8226; Higher risk of herbaceous and bitter characters - Very good chance of a wine with strong green pepper taste.
&#8226; pH and acid imbalances - You should always test the must before fermenting (TA, PH and SO2) and make your adjustments, then going through fermentation.

The following link from Scott Labs addresses "Red Winemaking with Underripe Grapes"
Scott Labs listed the protocols for working with underripe fruit, check it out, it can help you work with your current batch.
 
I chaptalized it a good amount to make up for lack of brix, bringing it to 23 when I took my reading today. I let the enzymes work for about 24 hours before pitching, rehydrated with go-ferm protect etc. I'll be adding some FTBlanc soft for tannin improvement, oaking etc. and the elderberries are helping improve the color. Acid wasn't too high and fermentation is proceeding normally. I can see some vegetal character, and I pitched 71B having acid in mind and not green off flavors. I'm really out about 5 bucks total for the ingredients so I'm not going to be terribly sad if it comes out as one of those "it's not great but it'll get ya drunk" kinda wines, I'll feed it to my tasteless friends :)
 
It sounds like you've done your homework! The vegetal characters can be mellowed with Noblesse.
Let us know how it turns out.
 
Fermentation was complete yesterday and I only took free-run juice into one 2-gallon bucket. the press run was only about a gallon and I put that in another container. Doesn't taste too bad, like very young rose, no vegetal flavors or smells, however a pretty biting acidity. I added a liberal amount of MED+ oak chips and some more dry elderberries for color as well as their basic nature, maybe rounding out the acid a little. I also gave it a little sprinkle of FT tannin Blanc Soft and a dusting of KMBS since I can't test for PPM SO2 at home I just kinda eyeballed it. Later down the road I can take a sample into the lab at my work and test it, but until then I'll take a light touch with it often to keep it protected. I also inoculated with ML cultures. Today I took the clearest of the wine from the top of the bucket and ran a little acid test for tartaric with phenolphthalein and sodium hydroxide and came up with .9% acid expressed as tartaric! Yikes! I'm surprised this fermented out bone dry. As for pH I only have strips and I find them unreliable at best. I plan on reading up on how much calcium carbonate to add to correct it down to about .6% and I'll probably just have to play the waiting game until the tartaric drops out, probably by cold-storing for a while. The press-run is going to remain completely unmodified so that when they're both "done" I can compare the two for myself and see how much of my (not so) scientific tweaking had an impact on the final product.

EDIT: pH with the strips looks like somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.8-3, seriously acidic.
 
Unfortunately, trying to balance the wine after fermentation isn't nearly as easy or at times as effective as balancing the wine pre fermentation.
If i'm understanding correctly, your Zinfandel tested at 0.9 g/l tartaric, and you would like to get it in the neighborhood of 0.6 g/l tartaric, if this is correct, 1.51 grams of calcium carbonate should help out, I highly recommend doing a few bench trials to make sure that this is what you expect the finished product to be like.
I agree on cold stabilizing this wine, get it to 32° for 2 weeks or so and you should see a lot of wine diamonds dropping out.
 
Yeah, did all I could to adjust pre-ferment. Cold stabilization and I read also to add a little cream of tartar as "seed" crystals to get the tartaric to settle out better in the cold-crash. As for the not using chemicals route, this would be rough, if not neigh undrinkable without a lot of tweaking.
 
I haven't had to use any cream of tartar, if it is cold enough for long enough, it will drop.
 
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