Quick question

[trbig]

Making a chocolate porter. I used White Labs California ale yeast WLP001. Thinking I might have pitched the yeast too hot.. maybe 85-90 degrees. Still nothing going on in the air lock after 24 hrs. Should I pitch some more yeast? I'd like something to get that oxygen out of the ferment bin. I don't have any more of the White Labs yeast, but I've got some Lalvin 71B-1122 and some D-47. Would either of these be suitable for this brew to get it started? I also have some Red Star Pasteur Champaign yeast.. but thinking that might take over.

Opinions?

 

[homebrewbeliever]

Making a chocolate porter. I used White Labs California ale yeast WLP001. Thinking I might have pitched the yeast too hot.. maybe 85-90 degrees. Still nothing going on in the air lock after 24 hrs. Should I pitch some more yeast? I'd like something to get that oxygen out of the ferment bin. I don't have any more of the White Labs yeast, but I've got some Lalvin 71B-1122 and some D-47. Would either of these be suitable for this brew to get it started? I also have some Red Star Pasteur Champaign yeast.. but thinking that might take over.

Opinions?

Wait at least 48 hours before pitching more yeast, as some time the lag can be a bit much, especially if you pitched too hot (and yeah, 85-90*F is too hot). If you haven't seen activity after 48 hours, check your gravity, because sometimes it will ferment without a whole lot of visual fermentation (I haven't seen this happen personally, just heard of it happen)! I would not recommend using the champaign yeast, unless you want to ferment the hell out of your porter, nor would I really recommend using your two listed wine yeasts, although it could be an interesting experiment. If you have a local homebrew store, just get some more yeast. If not, I suppose you could just try one of the Lalvin yeasts that you listed and report how it turns out!

 

[trbig]

The OG was temp. corrected to 1.066 before pitching.

Thanks for your input, but the nearest HB store is about 80 miles. This is a fairly expensive batch, so I would sure hate to ruin it. We had to leave last night and necessity had me throwing the yeast that hot.

 

[Shakybones]

Your beer is fine. Most dry yeasts are recommended to rehydrate at 104-109F (I realize that WLP001 is liquid, just saying that it can take the temps). The worst you can expect is a possible off-flavor from fusel alcohols that yeast produce at high temperatures, particularly during the early stages of fermentation when they are multiplying rapidly.

Oh, and RDWHAHB.

 

[trbig]

Oh, and RDWHAHB.

LOL.. OK.. Will Do. I just went and checked a couple days ago. I've got 13 cases of HB.. A mixed lot of American light, Mexican Cerveza, a bock "Style" beer, (I was flamed for calling a bock mix a bock beer) a stout, and a sparkling apple cider. I decided 13 was an unlucky number, so two nights ago I mixed up a 6 gal batch of mead, (1st time trying this) and last night, the choc. vanilla porter. Tonight I'm cooking up some rice wine.

So many different kinds of hooch... so little time!

Thanks again for the replies.

 

[trbig]

Still had no airlock activity this morning, but when I got next to it, I could smell something lovely. Apparently this lid on my ferment bucket doesn't seal well. I put some weight on top of the bucket and the air lock is bubbling nicely!

Thanks again for the suggestion on having a drink last night! lol.

 

[unionrdr]

In my experiences,the temp being too low or too high can cause a longer lag time. Better known as the reproductive phase where the yeast are multiplying up to the numbers needed for initial fermentation to start. This can take up to 72 hours. Give it a couple weeks to get down to FG. Then another 3-7 days to clean up by products of fermentation. It'll settle out clear or slightly misty as it does so.

 

[Shakybones]

Apparently this lid on my ferment bucket doesn't seal well.

I had the same problem with mine. Cheap crap. What did I expect in a free deal from MW?

I went to Home Depot and bought one of their lids (the white food-safe ones) that has a rubber gasket. It fits perfectly and seals well. I drilled a hole for a #6 stopper and the problem was solved.

 

[unionrdr]

Yeah,I noticed that any site selling their logo'd version of the Brewer's Best Ale Pail don't have seals in the lids. Good idea about the Home Depot lids. I see they have a couple different ones,depending on whether it's for the orange bucket or the translucent white-ish ones. The white-ish ones I do believe are more food safe. Might just try that myself,as the BB lid leaks a bit under high krausen pressures. That sticky malt is tough to clean out of the ribs at the top of the ale pails.

 

[trbig]

This lid has a rubber gasket on it, but it still wasn't sealing for whatever reason. Some lead ingots (For reloading) in a ziplock laying on the lid took care of it.

There's been big discussions on whether Home Depot buckets can be used. Last I heard, they didn't have the food grade buckets we should be using? Before someone else posts it on me.. lol.

 

[Shakybones]

the orange homer buckets are not food safe. the white ones are.