Questions regarding Kegging and Co2 for the beginner.

[SweatyCorndog]

Hi,

First post on Homebrewetalk.com

I have some questions regarding how to start kegging and using Co2 instead of bottle conditioning with corn sugar. Currently I brew 1 gallon batches and the occasional 2 gallon batch via BIAB. Is it possible to Keg small batches like 1 or 2 gallon? If so, whats the most affordable and easy way to start ?

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks !!!

 

[catalanotte]

I have seen ball lock style kegs as small as 1.75 gallons, so you would need to fill this volume. The rest of the system (CO2 bottle, regulator, hoses, and fitting) are the same for any size keg so you might find a used set up for a good deal. The 1.75 gal keg (Cannonball) is likely going to need to be purchased new, since they are a new manufacture item for home brewers, and not reused old soda kegs.

 

[AJinJacksonville]

You could purchase Torpedo kegs; new kegs that range in sizes of 1.5g, 2.5g and 5g with a cost between about $80 and $100. They are ball lock, stackable, etc. I know Morebeer carries them. Like catalanotte said, all of the other stuff remains the same.

 

[SweatyCorndog]

Thanks Guys !

Where would you recommend shopping for the supplies needed?

Im assuming there is a website where everything can be ordered from?

Thanks again,

 

[day_trippr]

I've bought new kegs from Austin Home Brew (a 2.5 and a 3.5 for my glass rinser system) and used kegs from Adventures In Homebrewing (aka homebrewing.org).
For regulators and faucets, try ritebrew.com. For disconnects, faucet shanks, and random hardware, chicompany.net.

And here are two tips:
- don't buy anything with a barb, always opt for the threaded (typically 1/4" flare) option.
- go with EVAbarrier tubing and push-to-connect fittings (from Duotight, John Guest, and/or DMfit) on both beer and gas sides. I used the 4mm ID line for beer and the 5mm ID line for gas, both 8mm OD. Good for your beer, good for you

Cheers!

 

[Gruel]

For the CO2, check local welding supply stores. They might have used steel cylinders, and might also be cheaper for refills (with food grade CO2) than your local beverage or brewing supply place.

Regarding kegs, you don't have to fill them all the way. That way (not completely filled) you have more of a CO2 cushion on top, so you can serve beer without a CO2 cylinder connected all the time. My impression is that the 2.5 gallon kegs have the same foot print as 5 gallon kegs. It's probably easier though to fit them into a fridge.

I find using kegs, even just brewing for myself, a lot more convenient than bottling.

 

[CxRxExAxM]

I have both 2.5 and 5 gallon torpedos. While the 2.5 size and stacking is nice, id agree with Gruel in that i usually will just short fill a 5 gallon. If you have the space its always good to have the option for 5 gal batch down the road.

 

[AJinJacksonville]

And check your local online marketplaces, FB, Craigslist, etc. I purchased two ball lock kegs from a guy locally for $50. I spent about $10 for new O-rings and cleaned the hell out of them. Like new on the inside. Only problem is...only one is full of beer right now. I'll fix that this weekend...haha.

 

[Knightshade]

Kegco actually makes 1G kegs if you're interested.

You really need to think about your potential use cases. I actually just purchased a new 2.5G keg from AIH after trying to find one used for months. Use case is that it will stack on top of a 1.75G (that I already had due to previous ownership of a Picobrew) and take up the same amount of space as a 5G in the kegerator.

I was also really annoyed that I had to throw out some non carb'd beer because the 1.75 was in use, so I used a 5L and 4L mini growler and still ended up needing to throw some away. Hence..the 2.5G. Should be the perfect size for when I do multiple 1G batches of cider too. Won't need to worry so much about the space back sweetening stuff takes.

AIH, mentioned above are selling used 5G kegs for $39, and a set of 4 for $150. Buddy of mine pulled the trigger on a 4 pack. Definitely used, and required some work to clean and just good practice to replace all the seals anyways. He got 3 with Pepsi syrup and 1 with root beer.

 

[Gozie Boy]

I've bought new kegs from Austin Home Brew (a 2.5 and a 3.5 for my glass rinser system) and used kegs from Adventures In Homebrewing (aka homebrewing.org).
For regulators and faucets, try ritebrew.com. For disconnects, faucet shanks, and random hardware, chicompany.net.

And here are two tips:
- don't buy anything with a barb, always opt for the threaded (typically 1/4" flare) option.
- go with EVAbarrier tubing and push-to-connect fittings (from Duotight, John Guest, and/or DMfit) on both beer and gas sides. I used the 4mm ID line for beer and the 5mm ID line for gas, both 8mm OD. Good for your beer, good for you

Cheers!

Hey DT, I'm curious about your selection of 5mm EVA for gas, rather than simply keeping both your gas and beer systems at 4mm. I would guess that unless you are pulling consecutive pints in short order, or have very little head space (buffer capacity) in your keg, that 4mm would allow gas to fill a keg at a sufficient rate. I don't have any roughness factors on EVA (although its liner makes it smoother than vinyl), and even if I did, I'd rather just tap your brain/experience than do the calcs! It would be nice to minimize the cost and hassle of tubing and connector spares. Thx.

 

[day_trippr]

It was strictly to accommodate the 6 way barbed manifold inside my keezer, rather than replacing or changing out all of the shut-offs for mfl versions. Either way it would have been $60+ unnecessarily spent...

Cheers!

 

[Gozie Boy]

It was strictly to accommodate the 6 way barbed manifold inside my keezer, rather than replacing or changing out all of the shut-offs for mfl versions. Either way it would have been $60+ unnecessarily spent...

Cheers!

Hence your advice for the "all-MFL" approach, which I agree. (My first manifold was a barbed-type from Micromatic. What a piece of junk it was, the shut-offs didn't even have checks. Ask me how I found out, and immediately appreciated the value of these!)

I would have been surprised if the need for 5mm was due to limited flow capacity in the 4mm.

Thanks!