Pump 110 volt, speed control

CornyKegs 728
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It seems like those are both DC pwm controllers. Unless you are an EE, it would be easier to just get a DC pump. Actually, even if you are an EE, it would be easier to get a DC pump.....
 
delium55 said:
Hi,


What'is the best way to go and someone have a chematic to wire this.
Click to expand...

This pump has a brushless AC motor and its rotation speed defined by feeding AC frequency. So to do a proper speed control you need to use/create variable frequency invertor. Prebuilt ones are quite expensive ($100 and more). Y can build one using arduino but it require some advanced programming/schematics.

In some degree you can control speed by lowering voltage. You can do it by using simple phase-angle controller like this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714FFG4F/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

But lower voltage significantly reduce a torque. So depending on liquid viscosity motor can stop not far from original RPM. And phase angle controller can cause an overheating if you go below 20% of 100% of voltage.
So you should start your pump at full speed then lower it and control motor temperature.
 
golfindia and bremateur1, thank to answer.

It will be more economical to buy a new small DC pump and i will can to control speed with PWM or L298N + Arduino.

I will use this AC pump as transfert pump to transfert worth from kettle to fermenter and i will add a globe valve to control the flow or to circulate water to rim tube with electric element.

Thank.
 
I second this.. I use mostly DC pumps and love them with 120v pumps I dont know of any way to control the speed besides a valve. most VFDs require 3 phase 240v or higher motors from my understanding and only certain 120v motors will work.
 
I myself have a huge 3/4hp sanitary pump I cannot throttle with a valve or its makes a horrendous racket like its going to explode..
 
I have the exact same pump, I throttle it back all the time using a ball valve attached directly to the output. If you try to throttle at the other end of a hose, you risk causing the hose to burst. From full blast to a trickle, it works perfectly and is so quiet I have to touch it to tell whether its running.
 
Jayjay1976 said:
I have the exact same pump, I throttle it back all the time using a ball valve attached directly to the output. If you try to throttle at the other end of a hose, you risk causing the hose to burst. From full blast to a trickle, it works perfectly and is so quiet I have to touch it to tell whether its running.
Click to expand...
yes this is due to the impeller being magnetically coupled and allowed to "slip" when throttled back. most home brewing pumps are set up this way and can be throttled on the output without damage.. wish I was so lucky with my cip pump.
So I could control flow I had to order this 17gpm instead, (which appears to be a non branded march pump) from the manufacturer. ($155 vs 375+ shipping for the same thing direct is a no brainer to me.)

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=253999327538
 
Throttling the output will not cause cavitation - in fact it will reduce it. Cavitation occurs when near boiling liquid experiences local pressure drops, like near the vane trailing edges. Adding back-pressure helps reduce boiling induced pressures in the pump. Now, downstream of the throttling valve, the pressure could drop and cavitation there - so back pressure all the way to the exit is recommended (like a small whirlpool nozzle). And again, the liquid has to be near boiling temp for any cavitation to occur.

Homebrew pumps which are magnetically coupled should not disengage when facing full head pressure. They don’t slip like a clutch. The magnet is there for safety sake, such as when grain gets caught in the impeller, and when it does magnetically decouple, it will not recouple until the motor is essentially stopped. This is a common misconception about magnetic coupling. The other reason it is there is to eliminate shaft seals in food applications.
 
BrunDog said:
Throttling the output will not cause cavitation - in fact it will reduce it. Cavitation occurs when near boiling liquid experiences local pressure drops, like near the vane trailing edges. Adding back-pressure helps reduce boiling induced pressures in the pump. Now, downstream of the throttling valve, the pressure could drop and cavitation there - so back pressure all the way to the exit is recommended (like a small whirlpool nozzle). And again, the liquid has to be near boiling temp for any cavitation to occur.

Homebrew pumps which are magnetically coupled should not disengage when facing full head pressure. They don’t slip like a clutch. The magnet is there for safety sake, such as when grain gets caught in the impeller, and when it does magnetically decouple, it will not recouple until the motor is essentially stopped. This is a common misconception about magnetic coupling. The other reason it is there is to eliminate shaft seals in food applications.
Click to expand...
Good to know, I do know backpressure on some pumps such as aquarium pumps and the little brown dc pumps seem to cause quicker wear on the shaft or bushing that hold the magnet/impeller into the pump motor and head. also just starting those types of pumps up can be hard on them, therefore the soft start of the pwm can help (at least from my understanding) this is also why some high end wavemakers do this to prevent excessive wear on the pumps. (Ive got a box of worn out powerheads with worn bushings and eventually damaged inpellers that Ive been unable to find replacements for.)
I should update my last post. I found the tri clamp head on the sanitary pump head was tightened too much which cause the horrible vibration when throttling down the output for some reason (perhaps the pressure caused some sort of vibration and since the head boby was soo close to the impeller? IDK) anyway I am now able to throttle down the output of the pump which has been a huge help since the output has been way too powerful even for cleaning 3 1/2 kegs at a time.
 
Backpressure will definitely put more strain on the pump hardware. I’m just saying if you are pumping near boiling liquid, some back pressure will reduce or eliminate cavitation. Also no doubt a softer start is better for the pump windings and brushes if brushed DC.
 

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golfindia said:
No. That pump is a Chinese clone. Not the same as a march pump. They just rip off other's designs

http://www.rankingpump.com/EN/productsinfo.aspx?CateId=115&Id=698
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I believe your wrong here. Where is your evidence or are you assuming as well?
its completely identical in every single way but the sticker. So much so that I believe they make these for march just as the chinese made Chugger used to make pumps for march before spinning off on their own. I believe this company is the OEM manufacturer who likely makes them for like $50 each for march and by the time they go through all the channels and markups they sell for $300 or more just like a lot of things do in this economy where we have everything made in china and market it as a misleading american product. March likely designed them and the oem can sell direct after a period of time or to certain countries.. Very common scenario

Do you think March actually makes all the different pumps they sell under their name? they do not. They may make some but not all
 
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does anyone have this march model pump to confirm it "made in the USA"
how about these?
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=253999327563 surely someone has one that still has the made in china or made in usa on it?

Sorry to take your thread off topic OP I will comment in another pump thread or start my own if it bothers you? I believe you already got the info you were looking for?
 
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http://www.marchpump.com/pumps/beer-pumps/ac-5b-md/

March says these are "American made". Perhaps they are lying, I can't prove they are. March makes ALL of their own injection molded plastic. There are a few motors that they don't make. My 315s say made in USA. Knockoffs are a way of life in this day and age. Other than the potential theft of intellectual property, I suppose there's nothing wrong with them. The whole point of knockoffs is to make them look identical to the real thing. I have saved a few bucks on some knockoff stuff too, which, while they look the same as the real thing, I can tell instantly by looking inside that they are not. I accept that. The fact is these are not "unbranded march pumps".
 
The March AC-5B-MD should have a Fasco motor, which is US made. If you compare the amount of copper in a US motor to a knockoff, you should be able to instantly tell the difference.
 
golfindia said:
http://www.marchpump.com/pumps/beer-pumps/ac-5b-md/

March says these are "American made". Perhaps they are lying, I can't prove they are. March makes ALL of their own injection molded plastic. There are a few motors that they don't make. My 315s say made in USA. Knockoffs are a way of life in this day and age. Other than the potential theft of intellectual property, I suppose there's nothing wrong with them. The whole point of knockoffs is to make them look identical to the real thing. I have saved a few bucks on some knockoff stuff too, which, while they look the same as the real thing, I can tell instantly by looking inside that they are not. I accept that. The fact is these are not "unbranded march pumps".
Click to expand...
You may be right.. Then again theres a pump company 3 blocks from my house. a childhood friend of mine works there and he told me one of the jobs he had was uncrating chinese pumps and putting US power cords on them and then slapping the assembled in the USA stickers on them so.. And what about chugger? They used to make chinese pumps for march? Ive read that numerous times here and elsewhere. usually clones of things like this vary cosmetically in some ways Ive never seen something so complex completely copied and sold thru what appears to be a pretty reputable company..

what gets me is companies that buy reputable names, close the factories and start inporting knockoffs of them under that name for same price as real american products cost like for example autolite does now.
 
golfindia said:
The March AC-5B-MD should have a Fasco motor, which is US made. If you compare the amount of copper in a US motor to a knockoff, you should be able to instantly tell the difference.
Click to expand...
The weight should be different then. I may be able to find out that way. in any case its plenty powerful enough to clean kegs which is why I bought it.
 
Chugger is a clone too.... Just more ubiquitous. I just noticed that Walter March (pump guy) used to participate in this forum.... Maybe he has input.
 

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