Ptfe tape is getting shredded by the threads on ball valve

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Ashevillain

Level 3 Potions Master
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Is it okay that the tape is getting pretty torn up? I noticed that spike's ball valve threads are way sharper than the threads on the plugs and thermometer. Also i am having trouble getting the ball valve fitted snuggy in the upright position, it seems the perfect tightness leaves it upside down, should i force the half rotation or find another solution? I just want to ensure it doesnt get too tight since the tephlon doesnt seem to be able to protect the ss threads from direct contact due to the shredding.
 
You'll need to replace that tape probably every time you dissassemble and clean this setup. Shredding isn't a problem really, the only thing you care about is if it leaks, and if the spigot ends up pointing in the correct direction.
 
Wrap it the other direction so that your wrap goes the same direction you are turning your ball valve.

With the threads facing you, wrap clockwise. Don't use more than 2-3 wraps. It can interfere with a good seal if it's too thick
 
Cant you just take the ball valve apart and clean it without removing any threads sealed with teflon tape? that what I do with regular stainless ballvalves. You leave the valve base attached and spray cleaner on it and use a brush after removing the ball.
 
Wrap it the other direction so that your wrap goes the same direction you are turning your ball valve.

With the threads facing you, wrap clockwise. Don't use more than 2-3 wraps. It can interfere with a good seal if it's too thick

This, then then 3 wraps. Re tape each time you disassemble.

Then hand tight plus about a half a turn with a wrench. The system isn't under pressure, and there is no reason to really crank down on it.
 
If your having leaks or issues with the tape after taking the above advice look into getting Blue Monster PTFE. It can be found at Menards and its the only tape I try to use now. Home Depot also sells a heavy duty one that is black but its the same price for half the amount.
 
Brewhardware sales a good heavy duty tape as well. Screw that flimsy crap
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, i got the ball valve on there just right now. I guess it seems weird to me that the ball valve is the only threading that shreds the tape, but since none of the tape is exposed on the inside i'm not really concerned. Will do a quick water test before my simcoe/eldorado ipa tomorrow, but I'm sure shes ready to rock! On my next cleaning I will get some thicker tape and see if that solves the tearing.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, i got the ball valve on there just right now. I guess it seems weird to me that the ball valve is the only threading that shreds the tape, but since none of the tape is exposed on the inside i'm not really concerned. Will do a quick water test before my simcoe/eldorado ipa tomorrow, but I'm sure shes ready to rock! On my next cleaning I will get some thicker tape and see if that solves the tearing.

Why are you removing the valve? The whole point of these designs is to be able to disassemble and clean easily without actually having any reason to remove the base from the kettle? This is like removing all the weldless fitting between each use... totally not useful and just causes more failures and work.

If your threads are tapered like an npt threaded fitting the teflon can shred easily. Teflon does not have a memory so once its compressed it cant be reused very well. but since these fittings are not designed to be constantly removed and reinstalled it shouldnt be a problem... I believe this is why these valves are designed the way they are to be easily taken apart and cleaned in place.

Are these valves really better somehow? Valves with all the nuts and bolts just seem like more work to maintain and keep clean. Why do people buy them over the standard ones that come apart in like 5 seconds? Is it just because they look cooler?I know theoretically they can withstand more pressure in some sort of pressurized industrial application and they can be tightened more for when the nylon seals start to wear but I have been using the same cheap standard stainless valves for 4 years and have brewed hundreds of gallons and have yet to see a single valve wear out? Is there another reason for these?
 
I know that when I disassemble my rig, there is is junk caught in the threads.

If fact, I am getting ready to tear mine down now and do a thorough cleaning prior to brew day tomorrow.

Unscrewing threaded fittings and reassembling isn't really a big deal, and I would rather do it, than have an infection.

The three piece valves can be completely disassembled for cleaning.
 
I've never torn down anything hot side. It all gets hot enough to be in the clear in my opinion
Everything that touches wort touches boiling wort first...

Cold side, different story
 
I know that when I disassemble my rig, there is is junk caught in the threads.

If fact, I am getting ready to tear mine down now and do a thorough cleaning prior to brew day tomorrow.

Unscrewing threaded fittings and reassembling isn't really a big deal, and I would rather do it, than have an infection.

The three piece valves can be completely disassembled for cleaning.
Guys, you cant get an infection from anything that somehow leaks past the telfon tape which honestly should be plugging up the gap and not allowing anything in there in the first place. and anything in the crevice will have ZERO impact on the outcome beer as far as flavor or otherwise.

Do you think your grain has been sanitized? NO, Thats one of the reasons you boil it. your hops have all sort of nasties in them including the bugs (literally insects as well as bacterias) that were on them when they were pelletetized..

This is the common misconception that im talking about... everything on the hot side will eventually be boiled and see boiling temps so absolutely no concern here of some tiny amount of of a bug in a crevice...

Have you ever toured a real brewery? the brewing equipment and valves are down right disgusting to look at with buildup all over the outside in many cases... because they often do not use tri clover fittings or disassemble the whole brewery and clean this stuff between brew sessions... its pointless and costs money with no benefit so its just not done in most places. They do run caustic cleaners through them from time to time to flush things out.

I havent taken my threaded fittings and valves apart in over 3 years and my system has a lot of 3 way valves and hard plumbed stainless lines.... I do recirculate pbw through them every few brew sessions. I have pulled a few valves apart to check inside the valves for nasties since that the one place they have dead space and no flow to accumulate but actuating the valves with recircing pbw does a good job for me of flushing this area out.

I have brewed hundreds of gallons of beer in my system and only ever had an infection once and this was caused on the COLD SIDE. It was caused by the new no name stainless conical I bought used on craigslist at the time. There was a seam were it wasnt welded very well that I filled in afterwards with jbweld (which is food grade when cured) and Ive never had an issue since.

Anything from the chiller on needs to be clean and sanitized, The other stuff just needs to be reasonable clean! your really wasting your time and creating the potential for more problems by disassembling and reassembling all the fittings and plumbing.
 
The few breweries I have visited were spotless.

That said, you may be right about the homebrew rig. Its probably overkill on my part.

The issue I have is that my hot side lines and pump that I use to whirlpool are also the lines that chill and double as the cold side lines to the fermenter. So, each brew I CIP with PBW, rinse then circulate starsan. In the brew session, I turn on the pump through the chiller and recirc boiling wort for the last 15 minutes of the boil. Then I chill and pump the chilled wort to the fermenter.
 
The few breweries I have visited were spotless.

That said, you may be right about the homebrew rig. Its probably overkill on my part.

The issue I have is that my hot side lines and pump that I use to whirlpool are also the lines that chill and double as the cold side lines to the fermenter. So, each brew I CIP with PBW, rinse then circulate starsan. In the brew session, I turn on the pump through the chiller and recirc boiling wort for the last 15 minutes of the boil. Then I chill and pump the chilled wort to the fermenter.
I brewery I just toured which is over 100 years old was not..

I do the same only ar far as sterilizing my plate chiller at the end of the boil... i have dedicated $20 pumps in my setup permenently plumbed in But I dont see the point you getting at here, sorry.. If your pumping the boiling temp wort through the line, pump and chiller it will be sterilized before use each cold side use... What impact does that have to do with the cold side or removing the fittings?
 
Like I said, overkill on my part.

You are right, in theory, the boiling wort should sterilize everything in in the loop.
 
Like I said, overkill on my part.

You are right, in theory, the boiling wort should sterilize everything in in the loop.

My experience backs up the science that its more than "theory" to me think about it, Thats why baby bottles are boiled... and boiling is used to pasturize.. its effective and its been used for many many years in many industries.
If I rememeber right even surgical equipment is sterilized with steam in an autoclave? (one of my old customers made them but I dont rememebr exactly how they work honestly)

I bet if you were to do a poll here you would find most people do not remove and sterilize their fittings or anything on the hot side of their brewery.
I'm just trying to drive the point home here that its really a waste of your time to be doing this all the time. Obviously you can do whatever you want.
 
Could be an interesting poll.

Ok, so you are starting to sway me to your side. What is your process on brew day?
 
It never even occurred to me to remove my ball valve to clean it. I don't even wash my brew kettle properly, I just rinse it after each use to get the gunk off and run water through my ball valve, open and close it a few times and store it open to dry. The only concern I have is mold during storage.

An infection from your kettle is impossible unless you put it there AFTER the boil. Boiling kills everything every time.
 
Could be an interesting poll.

Ok, so you are starting to sway me to your side. What is your process on brew day?

If I havent brewed in a while I usually recirculate PBW and water at about 170 degrees or so through my BK,MT and my rims and plumbing which means pumps and the chiller.... than I run water through and brew.

But after im done brewing I push regular water through everything except my mash tun and boil kettle which I wash in a sink and if im brewing a couple days later I just brew... my rims actually stays clean with just a rinse because its unique in design and has a ulwd element. That said I designed it to pull apart in seconds and I can clean the element and run a brush through the tube if I wanted to.

I have pulled a couple of my pumps apart a couple times and found they are staying clean this way as well as my ballvalves.

The trick with the ballvalves is I actuate them while under pressure while pushing water or pbw through them to ensure the liquid is pushing the possible buildup out from the deadspace behind the ball... BUT I could see people wanting to clean the ballvalves manually if anything... I use three way valves and ball valves that come apart with one threaded end cap which to me is way easier than all those nuts and bolts which is why I was curious why some people buy those over the cheaper simpler design type? can anyone tell me if the type that spike sells has any practical advantage in homebrewing? I just see the disadvantage of being a lot more involved in disassembling and cleaning but I have never owned or used one either.
 
It never even occurred to me to remove my ball valve to clean it. I don't even wash my brew kettle properly, I just rinse it after each use to get the gunk off and run water through my ball valve, open and close it a few times and store it open to dry. The only concern I have is mold during storage.

An infection from your kettle is impossible unless you put it there AFTER the boil. Boiling kills everything every time.

whether the ballvalve it open or dry there is a sealed dead space inside which the liquid thats trapped inside the hole in the ball gets transferred to... this can cause nasty moldy buildup in the valves... this is why many disassemble and clean from time to time even though it wont likely cause any real issues.
 
If I havent brewed in a while I usually recirculate PBW and water at about 170 degrees or so through my BK,MT and my rims and plumbing which means pumps and the chiller.... than I run water through and brew.

But after im done brewing I push regular water through everything except my mash tun and boil kettle which I wash in a sink and if im brewing a couple days later I just brew... my rims actually stays clean with just a rinse because its unique in design and has a ulwd element. That said I designed it to pull apart in seconds and I can clean the element and run a brush through the tube if I wanted to.

I have pulled a couple of my pumps apart a couple times and found they are staying clean this way as well as my ballvalves.

The trick with the ballvalves is I actuate them while under pressure while pushing water or pbw through them to ensure the liquid is pushing the possible buildup out from the deadspace behind the ball... BUT I could see people wanting to clean the ballvalves manually if anything... I use three way valves and ball valves that come apart with one threaded end cap which to me is way easier than all those nuts and bolts which is why I was curious why some people buy those over the cheaper simpler design type? can anyone tell me if the type that spike sells has any practical advantage in homebrewing? I just see the disadvantage of being a lot more involved in disassembling and cleaning but I have never owned or used one either.

Thanks. I am going to try your method on the next one.

I went ahead and bought the three piece valves for my BK and Pump discharge. Yours do sound easier, but the only others I have seen cannot be disassembled.
 
whether the ballvalve it open or dry there is a sealed dead space inside which the liquid thats trapped inside the hole in the ball gets transferred to... this can cause nasty moldy buildup in the valves... this is why many disassemble and clean from time to time even though it wont likely cause any real issues.


I just pulled mine apart to check.. Clean as a whistle but there is moisture. I actuate it while running water through it about 15-20 times though, so that is probably why there's no wort build up.
 
Thanks. I am going to try your method on the next one.

I went ahead and bought the three piece valves for my BK and Pump discharge. Yours do sound easier, but the only others I have seen cannot be disassembled.

all stainless ball valves come apart ... one or more of the whole exit ends unthread from the main body
 
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