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BarleyNRocks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
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Location
Mount Airy
Well I've been lurking around here for some time but haven't really been much of a poster. This weekend I started a project I'm fairly excited about. I acquired a 16x12 shed from a friend of mine and like all my other projects it has evolved into something way more expensive and complicated. (Must be the German part of me coming through) anyhow heres where I'm going with the build and I'll try to keep this updated as I go.
Location
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428327136.454468.jpg
Rough sketch
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428327186.546227.jpg
Big pile of workView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428327221.977245.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428327242.990945.jpg
 
Yeah it will be a little work but this isn't my first rodeo, I'm a commercial GC and I grew up building decks and working construction with my dad. In fact I built the deck in the picture in less than a month and 2 weeks was spent just on those damn stairs.
 
SmokeyMcBong said:
As a bonus to pool side brewing, when it comes time to chill all you have to do is go for a dip and take you're pot with you! (I actually have a friend that does that with his brew!!)
Click to expand...

If it weren't for the fact that in the summer time my pool temps average around 80 that may not be a bad idea.
 
Here is a better sketch of the shed itself. It currently has an opening for a 12'x8' garage door. I am removing 2 panels and building the opening up to 42" and installing a white Quartz bar top (complements of gubment demo aka your tax money) the roof will be a powder coated grey metal roof over hanging the bar area by about 4'. I am running a 100amp sub panel to run the lighting refrigeration and to catch the hot tub.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428328885.955453.jpg
 
Yesterday a lot of time was spent bickering and tweaking the layout. Decided to move the hot tub off the platform to make more room for a seating area. The only picture I snaped yesterday was of my pops working as I was checking into Untapped for national beer day. I did find a nice full size fridge only unit on Craigslist for the keezer for $50 so that was productive. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428490405.991798.jpg
 
Well it's been doing a lot of raining here the past couple days so not much progress. I did however basically steal this full height refrigerator off Craigslist for $50. It looks like I will be able to fit 5 kegs and have plenty of room for other pool side refreshments. It's not going to be easy leaving my old kegorator in the garage to retire into a domesticated Lifestyle but this thing just makes way more since and being a refrigerator I don't have to deal with a useless freezer or external temperature controls. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428628064.192128.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428628080.861238.jpg

Sorry old pal
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428628151.864601.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428628587.907352.jpg
 
GrainToGlass said:
Wow! I love the piston rod tap handle too.
Click to expand...



Thanks! I added a second tap a couple weeks ago and didn't want to use a commercial tap handle for my Home brew. I had some pistons laying around from an incomplete set I acquired so, 10 min a drill bit and a tread tap BAM! I created my favorite tap handle. when my new logo stickers come in next week in going to stick one to a thin piece of metal and mount it in the center.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1428670499.910506.jpg
 
Living the dream, Man. Keep posting photos for us to drool over, especially when summer and the bikinis hit the brewpub!
 
Thanks guys! Target date up be up and running is Memorial Day weekend. I'll be sure to include pics of its payoff.
 
BarleyNRocks said:
The footings are roughly 16" around by 30"deep with 160lbs of concrete in each.
Click to expand...


I'm no engineer but that doesn't sound any worse than a footing with a flimsy galvanized bracket holding all the weight. Yet building inspectors don't always see it that way...

But I'm derailing, good luck with your build. One day I'll start on my own brew shed.
 
ChocolateMaltyBalls said:
I'm no engineer but that doesn't sound any worse than a footing with a flimsy galvanized bracket holding all the weight. Yet building inspectors don't always see it that way...

But I'm derailing, good luck with your build. One day I'll start on my own brew shed.
Click to expand...

The footings are for dispersing and holding the weight load. The concern I think your are alluding to is lateral movement or racking of the post. Most codes now a days require bracing from post to beam and joist at a 45° angle. And this is only when the post is a certain height.

Burying the post is becoming less a habit due to inferior quality of pressure treated wood (rots quicker due to less chemicals being used) and the metal bracket solves this by getting the post up and off of the ground.
 
brettwasbtd said:
The footings are for dispersing and holding the weight load. The concern I think your are alluding to is lateral movement or racking of the post. Most codes now a days require bracing from post to beam and joist at a 45° angle. And this is only when the post is a certain height.

Burying the post is becoming less a habit due to inferior quality of pressure treated wood (rots quicker due to less chemicals being used) and the metal bracket solves this by getting the post up and off of the ground.
Click to expand...

The post are all just under 4' some as short as 3' and carriage bolted to a double beam. the post is buried 4"-8" more for aesthetics I don't like seeing the clip or a big ring of concrete. As far as new code lets just say I have good neighbors. ;)
 
here is my local code. I'm good to go.

4. POSTS: -Post can be set directly on the footing with tamped back-fill, enclosed in concrete below grade, or on top of
a pier at grade with an approved post anchor.
-Posts should be a minimum 4x4 lumber size. Recommend using 6x6 lumber size for posts over 8’-0” tall.
-For posts over 10’-0” tall cross bracing is recommended.
 
BarleyNRocks said:
here is my local code. I'm good to go.

4. POSTS: -Post can be set directly on the footing with tamped back-fill, enclosed in concrete below grade, or on top of
a pier at grade with an approved post anchor.
-Posts should be a minimum 4x4 lumber size. Recommend using 6x6 lumber size for posts over 8’-0” tall.
-For posts over 10’-0” tall cross bracing is recommended.
Click to expand...

Nice! Your neighboring Montgomery county is more strict - I had to have cross bracing on my freestanding deck
 

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