This oughta be an interesting beer. I thought I hit high with a 1.090 on the batch I did 2 weeks ago (and what I expect was a too low pitch rate with a 1.6l starter). What type of oak chips/rum combo are you using?
This oughta be an interesting beer. I thought I hit high with a 1.090 on the batch I did 2 weeks ago (and what I expect was a too low pitch rate with a 1.6l starter). What type of oak chips/rum combo are you using?
I accidentally added 1 extra lb of brown sugar .... Looks like this will clock in around 10.5 % Do you think it will still be good?
I did a 2 liter starter which I'm showing for online calculators as not being enough for 1.097 should I pitch in some us05also?Last one I made hit exactly 10.5%. It's the best batch I've made yet, I think. Only caution I have is regarding the yeast pitching rate - make sure you've got enough!
Using a brix refractometor I started this at 1.097 and finished at 1044 putting it into the northern Brewer calculator it comes to being fg of 1.01 11% is this correct.... This is my first time trying to use the brix ref and converting instead of hydrometer
Update took hydro sample came out to 1.013 I believe it's finished the sample was certainly delicious
Hi Camden,
Looking only at your face value numbers, something is confusing me. If you started at 1.097 you were ~23 brix on your refractometer. If you finished at 1.044 that would have put your brix ~11...But that is way high for this beer for it to be "finished." You should finish ~3.5 to 5 brix technically. You shouldn't have any SG measurements on a totally brix instrument, only numbers from 0-30 depending on the model.
Alternatively, what you can do is use that 23 brix you started with, convert using this table http://www.fermsoft.com/gravbrix.php and use a hydrometer for your final reading and do the math (or simply plug in SG equivalents in your favorite online calculator) from there since brix/refractometers in general are supposed to be a little off (or something) when there is alcohol involved.
Can you please restate the numbers you have? 1.097 to 1.044 only gives you about 7.1% abv
Thanks!
This has probably been asked several times but I didn't feel like flipping through 40+ pages, but do you guys toss the rum itself into the secondary with the oak and/or vanilla bean? Also 4oz oak seems like a lot but I'm sure that's been addressed as well.
So I made this about 2 weeks ago, and my OG came in mad low, around 1.052. Not sure if it was my mashing process or whether my local HBS was confused by the CaraAroma,but the color was also not nearly as dark as some of the posted photos.
Mashed in around 152 degrees. Question, do you guys pour all the grain in your tun, then add the water? That's what I do/did, and noticed that the temperature in the tun was considerably lower as I stuck the thermometer deeper into the grain, even after stirring and turning up the grain from the bottom pretty thoroughly. I use a cooler style mash tun with a false bottom.
Next question, would it be crazy to mash say a half pound or something of crystal malt in the higher range of the acceptable mash temps in say a gallon of water, then add it to secondary or last part of primary in an attempt to make the beer darker, maltier, and hopefully closer to the 8-9% abv range that the beer is meant to be in, or just accept it as a more sessionable pirate ale?
Schlenkerla, quick question on your post here, "Boil water several gallons at least two or more. Dump this "strike" water into the fermentor" <-- by fermentor did you mean mash tun?
@ NickersonC - what temp did you get your water to before dumping it on your cracked grains? Also, did your LHBS try to sell you C120 instead of CaraAroma? I only made that mistake once with this recipe. How long did you mash? Also, can you provide your grain bill, please? I think it will make a difference.
Thanks!
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