pH is way too high

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chilitom

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
18
Reaction score
5
Location
Columbus
Hi folks. New here. Tremendous amount of great info in these forums. I'm just graduating from extract to all-grain and trying to understand why my mash pH is so high. I'm using RO water, since my unsoftened well water is pretty nasty. So I used Bru'n Water to adjust to a London profile, and followed Jamil's Special Bitter recipe. The details:

Maris Otter 9.5 lb.
Aromatic 20L 0.5 lb.
Crystal 120L 0.5 lb.
Special Roast 50 L. 0.25 lb.

Mashed at 151 F. at 1.85 qt/lb grist (5 gallons total). I adjusted the mash water according to Bru'n water, but left out the pickling lime, planning to check the mash pH first. So what I actually added to the 5 gallons of mash water was:

1.0 grams gypsum
1.2 grams epsom salt
0.6 grams baking soda
1.3 grams calcium chloride

This gives 32 ppm Ca, 6 ppm Mg, 16 ppm Na , 54 ppm SO4, 32 ppm Cl., 31 ppm alkalinity. Bru'n Water predicts a mash pH of 5.2, and estimates I would need to add 1.0 grams of pickling lime to bring the pH up to 5.4.

Well ..... I was pretty surprised when my first pH reading (after 15 minutes) was 6.3. I gave it another 10 minutes and it had dropped to 6.1. At that point I began adding lactic acid in 1 ml increments, waiting 5 minutes or so after each increment, and ended up adding 5 ml total to get the pH down to 5.5. The pH drop was pretty linear, at 0.12 pH units/ml lactic. By that time I was 45 minutes into the mash and had lost significant heat from all the opening and stirring. I gave it another half hour before draining off the wort and batch sparging. My efficiency was actually pretty good, at 76%. Except for the pH issue, everything else went OK. I bottled yesterday and it tastes pretty good at this stage. How much lactic can I safely add before affecting the taste?

All this leaves me perplexed why the pH was so much higher than expected. I now realize that my mash was very thin, so maybe that's part of it -- but still, the alkalinity of the water was very low. The RO water was pH 7, my meter was well-calibrated, and samples were cooled to room temp before measuring pH. Actually, this is the 2nd time I had this problem. My first AG batch was a porter, and I added the pickling lime up front. It went off-scale (>6) on pH paper. That's why I left the lime out of the mash water on this batch. I'm uncertain what to do the next time to get closer to the target pH up front.
 
Interesting thing I just read concerning pH: Stone Brewery's water supply that they use in their beer, filtered and all, hovers around 7.
 
I'm no expert in H20, but with RO water which I use I'd do 5 grams of Cal Chloride, maybe a bit of Gypsum depending on what I'm brewing, check the PH after a few minutes and brew on. Less is more. You are not concerned with PH of H20, only what it is when mashed in, so why not mash in first, wait and then adjust. Read more info in the Primer in the stickies of the Brewing Science thread, then thank AJ Delange for the useful info.
 
You are not concerned with PH of H20, only what it is when mashed in, so why not mash in first, wait and then adjust.

Yes, that's what I did. The pH readings above 6 were after mashing in. I mentioned the pH of the RO water before mashing only to indicate that there wasn't any alkalinity in the water to start with, that would have contributed to the high pH in the mash.
 
I'm no water chemistry expert either, though I've recently been doing some research on it.

It seems to me that your grist has nowhere near the acidity that would be required to counter that alkalinity that you added.

I haven't used Bru'n water (a little complex for my initial investigation). Just a quick fiddle on EZ Calc, it predicts a room temp pH of 5.73 with that adjustment.

Using this model, if you were to add 2.5 g gypsum 7.5 g CaCl2, and 5 g epsom salts with no baking soda, that would get you just under 5.6. Of course it's just a model not gospel. But the bottom line is that unless you have a really dark grist, it doesn't look like you want to be adding *any* alkalinity to your water.
 
Have you checked out Palmer's excel spreadsheet on Water? Pretty interesting.

Haven't checked the spreadsheet, but I did check the nomograph in How to Brew, and it predicts a mash pH of about 5.8 -- still way lower than what I measured.
 
Have you checked the pH of your RO water with a modest addition of calcium chloride? Sometimes they add lime to the calcium chloride according to AJ. That would add more alkalinity than what Bru'n Water or EZ Water would assume.

Where is your RO water from? Are you sure its actually RO water that is relatively free from ions and the total dissolved solids (TDS) are low (like <10)? A damaged membrane is all that's needed to deliver untreated water through a RO unit. Be sure to check that.

There is plenty of crystal and color malts in that grist that would likely need a little alkalinity to avoid an excessive pH drop. I see that you have a pretty thin water to grist ratio that would compound the elevated pH findings if it turns out the RO water is not as pure as expected. You have more of a problem than Bru'n Water.
 
Where is your RO water from? Are you sure its actually RO water that is relatively free from ions and the total dissolved solids (TDS) are low (like <10)? A damaged membrane is all that's needed to deliver untreated water through a RO unit. Be sure to check that.

The RO water is from WalMart, so I can't vouch for its quallity! From your response, it seems that something is amiss here -- likely my water or the adjustment chemicals. I have some leftover grains and about a gallon of the RO water. I also have a small home RO unit (Kinetico). So maybe I'll do some experimentation with mini-sized mashes to see if I can better understand what's going on.
 
It looks like the WalMart RO water is the culprit. I made up some mini-mash batches with 100 grams of grain, of the same composition as the big batch, in an insulated coffee mug, and checked the pH. With the WalMart RO water (no adjustment salts added) I got pH 6.13. With my small home RO unit I got pH 5.54. These were at a 1.68 qt/lb water:grist ratio. At 1.25 qts/lb the pH was about 0.1 unit lower - so the thin mash I used is only a secondary factor. (I also checked my calcium chloride and it didn't affect pH of the water).

So the lesson is to beware of these bulk RO water stations. There was a tag on the unit I used sayng that it had been "serviced" in the past month, whatever that means.

This leaves me wondering - short of sending the stuff off for analysis, is there a quick way to check the quality of the RO water? I have access to a conductivity meter at work. What would be an acceptable conductivity level for RO water?
 
I wouldn't trust one of those machines and as you point out Walmart RO is a pretty poor unit. I have an HM Digital TDS-3 meter which I use to test my RO water, as I recall it was in the low $20's.
 
I'm sorry to hear that the grocery store RO was the culprit. We have to remember that those providers are in it to make a profit. If a membrane cartridge fails prematurely, I wouldn't be surprised that they put off its replacement until someone really raises a fuss or the prescribed replacment interval comes around. Membranes are expensive.

When you have your own RO, your motivations are only to water quality. But you do have to have a way to check quality. As pointed out above, a TDS meter is a very quick and easy way to spot check ion removal from RO water.
 
I didn't realize that TDS meters are so cheap. That's a small investment worth making. Thanks for the help!
 
It looks like the WalMart RO water is the culprit. I made up some mini-mash batches with 100 grams of grain, of the same composition as the big batch, in an insulated coffee mug, and checked the pH. With the WalMart RO water (no adjustment salts added) I got pH 6.13. With my small home RO unit I got pH 5.54. These were at a 1.68 qt/lb water:grist ratio. At 1.25 qts/lb the pH was about 0.1 unit lower - so the thin mash I used is only a secondary factor. (I also checked my calcium chloride and it didn't affect pH of the water).

So the lesson is to beware of these bulk RO water stations. There was a tag on the unit I used sayng that it had been "serviced" in the past month, whatever that means.

This leaves me wondering - short of sending the stuff off for analysis, is there a quick way to check the quality of the RO water? I have access to a conductivity meter at work. What would be an acceptable conductivity level for RO water?

Ph strips?
 
Back
Top