New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[beervoid]

Ah.. I think you’re referring to the type used for bittering.

You want this stuff for off the charts aroma: https://www.morebeer.com/products/distilled-hop-oil-chinook-1-ml.html

I got the distilled ones. I dilute in vodka for easy meassuring then ad to keg with syringe but it seems to want to float to the top.

 

[pschnei3]

I pitched a24 dry hop on my 1.076 neipa yesterday around 4pm. Today when I worked up for work 5am I noticed no active fermentation. Does this yeast usually take this long to kick off?

 

[Dgallo]

I pitched a24 dry hop on my 1.076 neipa yesterday around 4pm. Today when I worked up for work 5am I noticed no active fermentation. Does this yeast usually take this long to kick off?

I will typically see activity by then but my worts are usually 1.064. I usually make a small starter, less than a liter, just to get the yeast active before I pitch but I don’t think it’s concerning not to see activity yet. By the time you get home I’d bet it’s ripping.

 

[pschnei3]

I will typically see activity by then but my worts are usually 1.064. I usually make a small starter, less than a liter, just to get the yeast active before I pitch but I don’t think it’s concerning not to see activity yet. By the time you get home I’d bet it’s ripping.

Just got home and Dgallo you were right. It’s fermenting like crazy.

 

[ttuato]

Sharing one of the best recipes I have ever made:

6gallon to fermentor
70% 2R
18% Crisp Malted Oats (hulless)
9% Chit
3% Honey Malt (I am shocked how such a small amount affects SRM)

1.062 SG
1.012 FG
~6.5%

Water profile: RO water - treated to 66 CA, 22 MG, 20 Na, 88 SO4, 150 Cl

Bittering: 30min Bravo 0.75oz (~25 ibus)
WP: 2oz each Idaho7, Mosaic, Moteuka
Dryhop@ FG after soft crash to 58* for 48hrs - 3oz each: Idaho 7, Galaxy, Vic Secret (1.5oz per gal)

Yeast: Conan (Barbarian A04 Gen 3)

• Day 1-5 68*
• Day 6-8 72*
• Day 9-10 75*
• Day 11-13 58*, Day 12 added dryhops
• Day 14 kegged

Photos at Day 21

 

[ttuato]

 

[tld6008]

View attachment 639230 View attachment 639231

Looks good, please describe taste and feel

 

[Dgallo]

Looks good, please describe taste and feel

Sounds dirty

 

[ttuato]

Looks good, please describe taste and feel

Aroma - citrus / orange
Flavor - heavy passion fruit and some citrus
Feel - wet?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en...t-details/london-esb-english-style-ale-yeast/
They have a london ale named one already.

You're missing the point - as per previous posts, it's clear that they have a new yeast due out later this year that is aimed at NEIPAs. When my contact said "London Ale" in casual conversation over a beer, it's 99% certain he's referring to a derivative of 1318 London Ale III, and nothing to do with London ESB (which is never referred to as London Ale, and which may well be from somewhere other than London, but that's another story...)

 

[tld6008]

Aroma - citrus / orange
Flavor - heavy passion fruit and some citrus
Feel - wet?

Thanks, didn't think I would need to be so specific....Mouthfeel?

 

[schematix]

I got the distilled ones. I dilute in vodka for easy meassuring then ad to keg with syringe but it seems to want to float to the top.

I tried to dilute with vodka too but apparently the distilled oil isn't soluble in vodka so I just added the whole 1mL. I like extreme hoppiness so that was no problem for me, but it can't be said enough, it's some crazy potent stuff.

 

[beervoid]

I tried to dilute with vodka too but apparently the distilled oil isn't soluble in vodka so I just added the whole 1mL. I like extreme hoppiness so that was no problem for me, but it can't be said enough, it's some crazy potent stuff.

Its crazy potent allright. I dipped a toohpick in it and dosed a glass.. Instant aroma change.

I think the one sold on morebeer is already diluted.
I got the undiluted full strength stuff from glacier hop ranch. 2.5ml is good for about 4 kegs.

How do you use it on the cold side?
I'm thinking of adding it to a purged keg before transferring the beer into it or add it together with the dry hop charge in the hopes it clings on to the pallets and mixes in better.

 

[beervoid]

You're missing the point - as per previous posts, it's clear that they have a new yeast due out later this year that is aimed at NEIPAs. When my contact said "London Ale" in casual conversation over a beer, it's 99% certain he's referring to a derivative of 1318 London Ale III, and nothing to do with London ESB (which is never referred to as London Ale, and which may well be from somewhere other than London, but that's another story...)

That would be interesting. Hopefully this version isnt as low floccing as London Fog and doesnt suffer from the same vitability issues as Conan.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Apparently they've had no problems with viability, it should be more "normal" in that regard than Conan. My interpretation/guess is that it'll be quite close to 1318 from a brewing perspective, but we'll have to see.

 

[Eltes]

Since there's been a lot of discussion of A24 im curious to try it out, but I can't get hold of it here in Switzerland. The "Funktown Pale Ale" blend from the Yeast Bay is available and seems to be a similar to A24.

Does anyone have experience with both A24 and Funktown? How do they compare?

 

[beervoid]

Since there's been a lot of discussion of A24 im curious to try it out, but I can't get hold of it here in Switzerland. The "Funktown Pale Ale" blend from the Yeast Bay is available and seems to be a similar to A24.

Does anyone have experience with both A24 and Funktown? How do they compare?

I think imperial a20 is the same as wlp644 so you could try blend that with any conan strain to get a similar result. No idea about blending proportions though.
Do a split batch with both yeasts and mix them.

 

[nick sekerak]

I was buying some A24 DH at the LHBS and found Kveiking its a seasonal strain from Imperial so i picked a pack up too. Anyone try or hear any thing about it. It sounds pretty NEIPAish to me. Here is Imperials description & that is what sold me on it "A blend of three Kveik strains that can produce an insane amount of pineapple, guava and other exotic tropical fruit aromas."


On a side note do you guys pitch the whole 200 billion cells, the guy at my LHBS said most only pitch 1/2 to 1/4 of the packet since it is such a crazy yeast. I never used a Kiev yeast before so this will be an interesting experiment to do a hot hot hot fermentation schedule. From what i gather the hotter ferment temp the more tropical estery you get. I am woudering if i can just chill my wort down to like 85-90 than pitch

 

[Dgallo]

I was buying some A24 DH at the LHBS and found Kveiking its a seasonal strain from Imperial so i picked a pack up too. Anyone try or hear any thing about it. It sounds pretty NEIPAish to me. Here is Imperials description & that is what sold me on it "A blend of three Kveik strains that can produce an insane amount of pineapple, guava and other exotic tropical fruit aromas."


On a side note do you guys pitch the whole 200 billion cells, the guy at my LHBS said most only pitch 1/2 to 1/4 of the packet since it is such a crazy yeast. I never used a Kiev yeast before so this will be an interesting experiment to do a hot hot hot fermentation schedule. From what i gather the hotter ferment temp the more tropical estery you get. I am woudering if i can just chill my wort down to like 85-90 than pitch

What’s the name of the strain? It can’t be “Loki” since that’s s Voss isolated strain. But yeah you’re LHBS is correct. You only want to pitch 1/2 the pouch or even 1/4. Over build s starter with the remaining yeast and store it in sanitized mason jars for future use. It’s a great summer yeast to work with since tap water temps are high and make cooling lengthy. You can pitch a 95-100 if you’d like

 

[schematix]

How do you use it on the cold side?

I use it in my IPA only. I let the beer ferment to near FG (like within a point or two or three), rack it to a purged keg via closed loop, inject priming sugar into the PRV hole and then follow it with the oil through the PRV as well. I then seal it all up and let it sit for a few days to carbonate, then it's off to cold storage.

 

[popquizkid]

11 lb 2 row
2 lb white wheat
1 lb flaked oats
Mash 154*f

So everyone in the competition that enters a NE will be citra, mosaic, Galaxy so if I were you, I’d use Idaho 7, Citra, Nelson

I’d say Target 30ish ibus.

Hotside ratio: 2:1 Idaho7/citra
DH ratio: 1:1:3 Idaho7/Citra/Nelson

Use 12-14 total ounces and limit o2 contact post fermentation.

Been wanting to try something different and this looks really interesting. Idaho 7 / Citra are a great combo and Nelson would be the cherry on top!

I might brew something similar this weekend - just need to make sure I have enough Nelson in the freezer

 

[Dgallo]

Been wanting to try something different and this looks really interesting. Idaho 7 / Citra are a great combo and Nelson would be the cherry on top!

I might brew something similar this weekend - just need to make sure I have enough Nelson in the freezer

It’s a great hop. I just had two beers from Grimm recently that were heavy Idaho 7 and they were terrific. Also
@marchuk96 just brewed and an Idaho 7 and Idaho gem NEIPA and the amount of true out of the bag hop aroma and flavor profile that can’t from the I7 was amazing. It was pure earth/dank with some citrus and tea notes. With citra and finishing it with Nelson in the dryhop will just give it the fruit forward notes that will make an amazing beer.

 

[Hannabrew]

Similar to what I just brewed today.

First NEIPA in a while and first time using dryhop.

Will try the 68/70/76 schedule.

I have a fairly large pitch and plan on a minute of pure o2.

I do have some nelson in the freezer so could be convinced to change the DH. Maybe sub out galaxy for it?

 

[ttuato]

Thanks, didn't think I would need to be so specific....Mouthfeel?

Sorry @tld6008 , I couldn't resist the softball you served. I have been waiting for you to respond.

Mouthfeel is on point. Plenty of body to make it enjoyable but no so thick that it is not crushable. (I dont like NEIPAS so thick that I have to chew first in order to swallow.)

Actually I did not even think of this until I started typing my response - now I am intrigued. I am currently drinking it side by side with my previous brew (two weeks older) that was essentially the same malt blend except I used TF Malted Oats . The current beer (sub Crisp Malted Oats) that I shared above has remarkably more body to it. Not sure if it is the age difference of the beers, different hops or the malted oats. I see an exbeeriment in my future...

 

[ttuato]

That would be interesting. Hopefully this version isnt as low floccing as London Fog and doesnt suffer from the same vitability issues as Conan.

I have only experienced one issues with Conan strain in 30+ brews. It was a 6th gen - came out way really odd. Now I stop at Gen5. Note: I have only ever used the Imperial Organic strain - A04 Barbarian.

 

[beervoid]

I use it in my IPA only. I let the beer ferment to near FG (like within a point or two or three), rack it to a purged keg via closed loop, inject priming sugar into the PRV hole and then follow it with the oil through the PRV as well. I then seal it all up and let it sit for a few days to carbonate, then it's off to cold storage.

That is what I tried before but it just floats to the top. Do you shake the keg?

 

[ttuato]

I think imperial a20 is the same as wlp644 so you could try blend that with any conan strain to get a similar result. No idea about blending proportions though.
Do a split batch with both yeasts and mix them.

@Eltes A24 is a 50/50 blend of Conan & WLP644. I saw an email that HBT user (or on Reddit) received from Imperial Organics. IO shared that the blend drifts starting at Gen3

Yeast Bay funktown is the same strains, but I have no clue what the mix ratios are.

 

[Genuine]

My best one as far as aroma has been 2oz each of Citra, Mosaic and Idaho 7 in the dry hop. I got a packet of Imperial's Dry Hop to use for my next batch, can't wait to see how it'll turn out.

 

[schematix]

That is what I tried before but it just floats to the top. Do you shake the keg?

Don’t believe I did anything other than inject the priming solution and oil, but I wouldn’t rule out that I tipped it over once or twice after i hit it with some pressure to set the lid.

It sat for a few days after that at room temp to carbonate, then a few days cold before going on tap. Seemed well dispersed to me.

 

[Hannabrew]

I tested my fermonster with water and it held 10 psi no problem.

Has anybody who is using the fermonsters like this had cracks in the lids? I've probably gone through 3 or 4 lids due to hairline cracks on the seam around the edge.

 

[Dgallo]

Has anybody who is using the fermonsters like this had cracks in the lids? I've probably gone through 3 or 4 lids due to hairline cracks on the seam around the edge.

I have not run into the issue but I’ve onky run this set up 4 times and only ever bring it to 5 psi at max in the transfer

 

[flintoid]

I have not run into the issue but I’ve onky run this set up 4 times and only ever bring it to 5 psi at max in the transfer

My lid cracked at 15psi around the seal line after 3 days. I haven't glued it or tried to use it again. I won't be running it that high again...maybe 5psi max for fermentation. Pressurized fermentation didn't do **** except oppress the yeast esters.

 

[Dgallo]

YrghYgygg7.6,,7,66;/

My lid cracked at 15psi around the seal line after 3 days. I haven't glued it or tried to use it again. I won't be running it that high again...maybe 5psi max for fermentation. Pressurized fermentation didn't do poopy except oppress the yeast esters.

Yeah I don’t ferment under pressure at all. And only dryhop at 2psi. Then when I transfer it’s between 2-5 psi. 5 is mush more than I need but once I start i don’t like messing with it.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

YrghYgygg7.6,,7,66;/

Yeah I don’t ferment under pressure at all. And only dryhop at 2psi. Then when I transfer it’s between 2-5 psi. 5 is mush more than I need but once I start i don’t like messing with it.

1st question: Is the pressure the same when you cold crash ie. ~2-5PSI into the liquid post with the gas post going to either a blow off jar or serving keg to purge it of oxygen?

2nd question: Regarding your dry hopping process @Dgallo you are adding the CO2 to the liquid post at 2psi before you unscrew the lid for dry hopping? Just want to be sure I understand your process.

Thanks

 

[Hannabrew]

It seems like I'm in the minority here, but having tried both the CBDS and Janish dip tube screen in both fermenting keg and serving keg (only tried once for each in the SK, due to the issues I'll mention below) for filtering out dry hops in this style, my preference is for the Janish recommended dip tube screen.

The process I've been using most recently is the dip tube screen in the fermenter with all dry hops going in the fermenter keg (typically ~5oz for 4.25 gallons of beer). I bought straight dip tubes (a few bucks each from Austin Homebrew) to use in my fermenting kegs to avoid having to trim my originals. For NEIPAs, I use one that leaves about 1/3rd gallon of liquid behind, which seems to get almost all the liquid above the hops without having had any clog issues. I typically cold crash about 48 hours before transferring to SK. I did try adding the final dry hop in the SK with the Janish dip tube once, but it seemed like the first ~8oz beer I poured in a day had some astringency/bitterness that I assume was from the close proximity to the hops at the bottom of the keg. Didn't feel like it boosted aroma or flavor by having them in the serving keg, so all my dry hops go into the primary now. I like that they are stainless, so they are shiny clean after a rinse and a PBW soak (I just soak them in the PBW leftover from cleaning the fermenting keg).

For the CBDS, process-wise, I rate them about the same as the Janish dip tube. They've worked just as well for screening out hops and transferring out of the primary or serving from without clogs. The issues I've had were mainly off-flavors that I strongly suspect is from flavors carrying over from the silicone tubing to the beer. Once you've fermented a NEIPA with one of these, you'll notice the silicone tubing is permanently stained and will smell like your dry hops, even after a good PBW soak. Over time, that dry hop smell turns into something that smells much less pleasant, and this I what I feel like I was tasting in my beers, especially when using them in the serving keg (it would start off barely noticeable but ruin the batch over the course of a few weeks). I know many here are using them without experiencing this issue though, so maybe I need to be cleaning them differently or maybe if you transfer out of the primary within 10-12 days and don't use them in the serving keg it's not as noticeable. The only times I've not had this issue on NEIPAs with the CBDS though was new silicon tubing, and it's not worth the cost or hassle to me to cut a new 3 feet of tubing for every batch given how well the Janish dip tube screen works.

Just figured I'd share my experience, since I think both options work great for filtering out he dry hops after a cold crash. And if anyone here has ideas on what I've been doing wrong with the CBDS to get this weird grainy/cheesy off-flavor with IPAs when I've used them, I'm all ears.

I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?

 

[Hannabrew]

I also did a water test before racking beer to see how the purging would go and decided that it would be easier to fill it completely with starsan and then push beer through to get the starsan out. I completely filled my filter housing setup with starsan before moving beer and then purged out the starsan with beer, but you should be able to purge the air out without first filling it with starsan.

Using liquid to purge out air, the biggest air pocket forms in the center of the cap. To get that out, you need to flip the filter housing upside down for a second while beer is flowing. Then, orient the housing so the outlet is up, but move it slowly into that position. This should push all the air out of the outlet barb. The weird thing is that some bubbles will probably stick to the screen, so I kind of prefer to put the whole assemble together under starsan to eliminate all air bubbles.

I have one of these filters and have been scared to use it on the cold side due to oxidation since my latest NEIPA method has been waiting until post fermentation to rack (due to DHing) and therefore there's no o2 scavenging available.

So how exactly are you hooking this up? I like the idea of putting it all together under starsan but how are you getting the hoses on there connected to your fermenter filled with star san too? If you just fill the filter and then connect an air-filled hose that negates the whole process.

 

[schmurf]

Has anybody who is using the fermonsters like this had cracks in the lids? I've probably gone through 3 or 4 lids due to hairline cracks on the seam around the edge.

Constantly, I've probably have had 3 or 4 cracked by the edge too. I'm guessing I'm tightening the lid too much.

 

[beervoid]

I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?

I was wondering about this too, it would be simple to test (have to do this myself).
Just take some coloured tubing and soak it in some water for a while and taste the water afterwards.
My kegs are occupied atm but if you do test this please share the results.

 

[Dgallo]

1st question: Is the pressure the same when you cold crash ie. ~2-5PSI into the liquid post with the gas post going to either a blow off jar or serving keg to purge it of oxygen?

When I cold crash my FV is connected to a gas line set at around 2 psi.

2nd question: Regarding your dry hopping process @Dgallo you are adding the CO2 to the liquid post at 2psi before you unscrew the lid for dry hopping? Just want to be sure I understand your process.

I will hook the co2 line to the liquid post of my fermonster but not have the co2 open yet. Then I’ll unscrew the cap and lift the cap so the bottom of the liquid post is just below the surface and will then run the co2 at as low as I can for 10 second and as I’m dropping in the dryhops. I found that if you have the gas on running through the dip tube before it’s close to the surface the co2 will rouse all the yeast and trub from the bottom.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?

I have been using a version of CBDS to ferment in my kegs and have extremely discolored tubing(I don't even try to soak it in PBW, just hot water rinse to clean), but haven't really noticed any off flavors. I recently did a Czech pils with the same tubing and it came out really clean and nice, I doubt I would've missed any weird flavors in that beer.