Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Both blanc and Nelson are great hops. Blanc is more reserved in my experience, slightly cleaner white wine. Where as Nelson is more potent and throws that slight dank character that I love.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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troglodytes
Well-Known Member
That blowoff to keg setup is something I've never thought of before, having never kegged, but now that I have a setup I think I have ll the parts to do this successfully. What a great idea.
Couple questions:
1) Is the purging keg just clean/sanitized and empty (filled with normal air) to get pushed into the other keg and then out.
2) If I wanted to fill my purging keg with star san to the top, would the off gassing of the fermentation provide enough pressure in the head space push the liquid out, like doing a normal star san purge would under pressure (just saving on the CO2)
3) Could you use a spunding valve on the purging keg and essentially to a chain pressurized fermentation all the way back to the carboy under low pressure (3-5psi) and still fully purge the keg
I'm so interested to try this.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
I'm also interested if people have found any difference between water-purging the Serving Keg first before purging it with CO2 from fermentation vs just sanitizing the SK and purging the air out with fermentation. I think if I did this I'd like to fill the SK up with sanitizer and push it out with fermentation gas somehow. I thought maybe the best way to do this (to avoid a possible siphoning effect?) would be to just elevate the sanitizer final receptacle above the level of the SK (maybe a bucket with the hose from the SK secured into it?) Every time I see my kegs blowing out CO2 to a jar of sanitizer I feel guilty for not using that pure CO2!
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
A change of topic. Has anyone tried purple maize in their NEIPAs or wheat beers?
Mexican food is far less of a big deal here than across the pond, so I'd not been aware of the work to maximise polyphenols in tortilla flour etc but purple maize can have up to 12x the phenolic compounds of normal yellow maize (although 2-3x is probably more normal). There's been a lot of work on how processing affects these compounds - it's a messy story as there are so many different chemicals involved, some chemically bound to the grain. The traditional method of making tortilla flour involves cooking/steeping with limestone (nowadays calcium hydroxide at pH~12) which reduces the amount of colour compounds but which releases eg ferulic acid, which is the precursor to the 4-VG clove flavour in wheat beers.
Knowing that ferulic acid is the most common phenolic in maize also suggests why maize was historically used widely in southern England but less so up north - a lot of northern yeasts are POF+ so would go clovey if you used maize.
Anyway, maize, particularly purple maize, seems to be a rich source of polyphenols particularly if treated right. Has anyone tried it in their hazy beers, given that protein-polyphenol interactions seem to be important? I'm asking from a position of ignorance, maybe they're the "wrong" polyphenols, but it seems something worth studying.
Mexican food is far less of a big deal here than across the pond, so I'd not been aware of the work to maximise polyphenols in tortilla flour etc but purple maize can have up to 12x the phenolic compounds of normal yellow maize (although 2-3x is probably more normal). There's been a lot of work on how processing affects these compounds - it's a messy story as there are so many different chemicals involved, some chemically bound to the grain. The traditional method of making tortilla flour involves cooking/steeping with limestone (nowadays calcium hydroxide at pH~12) which reduces the amount of colour compounds but which releases eg ferulic acid, which is the precursor to the 4-VG clove flavour in wheat beers.
Knowing that ferulic acid is the most common phenolic in maize also suggests why maize was historically used widely in southern England but less so up north - a lot of northern yeasts are POF+ so would go clovey if you used maize.
Anyway, maize, particularly purple maize, seems to be a rich source of polyphenols particularly if treated right. Has anyone tried it in their hazy beers, given that protein-polyphenol interactions seem to be important? I'm asking from a position of ignorance, maybe they're the "wrong" polyphenols, but it seems something worth studying.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I’d like to change it up myself. I’m using Denali in an upcoming milkshake IPA. Only used denali one other time, anyone with experience using this hop know when the best time is to add it to get the most pronounced pineapple characteristic?
BrewMan13
Whole Nother Level Brewing
Paging @ProblemChild
ProblemChild
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Denali seems (to me) to shine best at temp under 170. Less pine, more fruit. Just did this paired with vic secret. Not finished, but gravity sample is delicious
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Have you Dryhop heavy with it?
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
I don't see how you can avoid pineapple with Denali honestly. It is amazingly potent in pineapple with even a small addition from my experience. a couple years ago i did an all-denali dryhop of like 2oz/gal and it was pineapple juice.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Good to know. I’m doing a Denali, mosaic, and Citra milkshake ipa with mangos, pineapple, peaches and vanilla bean
ProblemChild
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Not needed to go heavy as far as I am concerned.
I would add something to bring it out though - Mosaic, Vic Secret, any good IPA Dry-hop hop will do fine. Feature the Denali, but add a little complexity.
By not heavy - I mean no need to exceed an ounce per gallon. 5 oz in a 5 gallon batch is plenty.
I would add something to bring it out though - Mosaic, Vic Secret, any good IPA Dry-hop hop will do fine. Feature the Denali, but add a little complexity.
By not heavy - I mean no need to exceed an ounce per gallon. 5 oz in a 5 gallon batch is plenty.
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anyone know where to get fresh denali, have not seen 2018 at yakimavalleyhops or farmhouse
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I had the same issue. So I just went with the 2017. Though I know they won’t be as potent, both companies do a great job with storage.
Cartman98
Well-Known Member
So to follow up with my brewing off flavor, I dropped off a sample at my brew store and a local judge tried it. He said there was no vegetal flavors, but it was extreme bitterness on the back end. I’m hoping some time in the keg will reduce some of the bitterness. Hard to drink it right now.
Sounds like astringency to me and not bitterness.
BreezyBrew
IPA is my spirit animal
Yeah. I'd check your water chem.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
what was your hopping regimen - including all additions? Could your boil pH have been pretty high - that can lead to more bitterness.
troglodytes
Well-Known Member
I've had horrible astringency problems with the last 3 Ipas I've made. I was trying to see if u had infections, overcarbing, high pH levels in mash and boil, etc. It's awful when you can't figure out where it's coming from.
I just got a kegging set up and a pH meter to solve two of those possible issues. I've got a red ipa in the carboy now, and I have high hopes for it. I can tell you that measuring my pH for the first time told me I was. 2 higher than I thought I would be through calculating so I adjusted with lactic acid in the mash and preboil. The resulting wort was way more of a pleasant, smooth bitterness than any I had previously produced.
As for overcarbing, it shouldn't happen in a keg. I think this was the bulk of my issue, as I think I had something in my bottling equipment that was a slow infection causing high CO2 levels. Look up carbonic bite. It precisely described the astringent flavors I've had in my last 3 batches.
Cartman98
Well-Known Member
2 six oz additions. 1:1:1 citra/mosaic/galaxy. One at 140 whirlpool and one on day 3 of fermentation. Transferred to keg after 15-18 days following dry hop addition. Haven’t checked pH before though. I’ll check it out.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
yeah, that should be pretty smooth. your pH or tannins must be out of control
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Yeah. Youre in the correct ball park for hopping, you shouldn’t really have picked up much bitterness at all with the temps there. That’s a very long contact time for your dryhops though
nick sekerak
Well-Known Member
HOLY NEIPA thread i just discovered!! Amazing reading, i am trying to read all 192 pages of this thread. SO far its like NEIPA gold. I have been only brewing them for three years and had i found this page back then would have cut my learning cure in half.
Now for my post:
I have been using 1318 for all my batchs and just started monitoring FV temps because i have a system that I can actually control what they are now
Does anyone have a good schedule i can use for my next batch. My new system on the last batch i held at 65* till i got to 1.020 then I raised it up to 70-72* (beer temp not room temp) until i hit my FG . This next batch i am getting more brave and want to see if there is anything better out there.
Now for my post:
I have been using 1318 for all my batchs and just started monitoring FV temps because i have a system that I can actually control what they are now
Does anyone have a good schedule i can use for my next batch. My new system on the last batch i held at 65* till i got to 1.020 then I raised it up to 70-72* (beer temp not room temp) until i hit my FG . This next batch i am getting more brave and want to see if there is anything better out there.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
You can drive your temps. Start 68-70 first day or so. Then up to 72 during aftive fermentation. Once it starts to slow a tad let it sit at 74-75 and then slowly bring it back down around 70-72 to clean up. I have success with this drive. But also some people swear by keeping it at 63 the entire fermentation to pick up the estersHOLY NEIPA thread i just discovered!! Amazing reading, i am trying to read all 192 pages of this thread. SO far its like NEIPA gold. I have been only brewing them for three years and had i found this page back then would have cut my learning cure in half.
Now for my post:
I have been using 1318 for all my batchs and just started monitoring FV temps because i have a system that I can actually control what they are now
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
I've been wondering about the 1318 profiles that people like too. I am kind of settling on it as my favorite NEIPA yeast. I usually start it at 65F, let it rise to 68F over 2 days and then let it go up or force it up to 70F to finish out. Tastes very nice. Maybe I'll try a 63F vs 65-70F one sometime.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Let me know if you see an increase in ester. I’ve never tried the 63 since I’m happy with driving it. I’ll let you do the dirty work lol
@stickyfinger +1 for fermenting at 63. I pitch 1318 at 66f and let it rise naturally. It can get up to 74 or 75 during peak fermentation. I am wondering how it would behave on the lower end.
BreezyBrew
IPA is my spirit animal
Why force it up so high? I've never had attenuation problems with this yeast. I'm the guy that has to mash low for full attenuation. if a yeast doesn't finish, it's due to my process. I'm looking at you 007 and 2565".
Only time I've seen it has been in chip form and used for transferring Guacamole from bowl to mouth :>)
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
they drive it higher to get more flavor
I’ve been brewing with 1318 for about three years now...66 is my go to temp.
I’ve tried it at higher temps (low 70’s) but see no difference.
I’ve done sours with it too.
I’ll play with it and push the temps...really don’t need to though.
At higher temps the krausen can get ridiculous.
I’ve tried it at higher temps (low 70’s) but see no difference.
I’ve done sours with it too.
I’ll play with it and push the temps...really don’t need to though.
At higher temps the krausen can get ridiculous.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
have you tried lower temps?
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I’m not forcing it high for attention by any means my man. I’m stressing the yeast through temperature to develop an increased ester profile. This specific strain throws peach esters
64 was the lowest....seemed sluggish but finished out fine....taste was the same to me.
I settled on 66 because it was a good compromise for the krausen....at the time I was fermenting in carboys ...and had been doing the Tasty McDole method of tinfoil over the top using 007 for some time ....when I switched to 1318 I found it really wanted to crawl out of the carboy.
I settled on 66 because it was a good compromise for the krausen....at the time I was fermenting in carboys ...and had been doing the Tasty McDole method of tinfoil over the top using 007 for some time ....when I switched to 1318 I found it really wanted to crawl out of the carboy.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I’ve noticed a big difference from the actual “drive” of the temp. I’ve fermented at specific temps from 66-76 but it all seemed the same. But once I started increasing the temp systematically by 2-4 degrees at a shot over the course of the fermentation, I’ve noticed a better ester profile. I’m wondering if the constant change in the yeast’s environment causes them more stress than the specific temperature
For a moderate ABV beer say 1.050-1.055 this yeast will hit FG in 2-3 days...after that it’s just clean up...
A good diacetyl rest pushed into the high 60’s to 70’s towards the end helps...7 to 8 days total seems to work....10 days is the most I’ll go. Then crash the yeast.
Important to get that diacetyl out of there though. Mutes the esters.
A good diacetyl rest pushed into the high 60’s to 70’s towards the end helps...7 to 8 days total seems to work....10 days is the most I’ll go. Then crash the yeast.
Important to get that diacetyl out of there though. Mutes the esters.
True dat
LumberZach
Well-Known Member
With 1318, why not underpitch by half and drive the temps if you want esters? That's what someone on here suggested to me and will give it a try in my next brew.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Exactly. Still use a pitch rate calculator when under pitching. In my experience you really don’t want to go lower than .40 - .35 mill cells/ml/•p.
jakturner
Well-Known Member
I’ve alway let my 1318 hang out in the high 60’s then finish out at 72. My brother on the other hand does 62-63, his ester profile is about the same as mine, usually. I will say his last batch was spund and I think he only did a 9 day ferment, but it had a bad case of hop creep, it was a diacetyl bomb. I’ve never personally had this problem.
This yeast gives off esters within its advertised fermentation temperature range and pitching rate. Adjust your recipe. Less hops (or other adjuncts) will allow the esters to come through more. Low temps will require longer fermentation time....as well as low pitching rates....also not to mention diacetly clean up could suffer at the lower end of things.
*Edit...As an added bonus to following the advertised guidelines you will most likely end up with healthier yeast for repitching (if you wish to).
*Edit...As an added bonus to following the advertised guidelines you will most likely end up with healthier yeast for repitching (if you wish to).
