New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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BrewCityBaller said:
Follow up question then: how are you cold crashing without O2 exposure?
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What do you have for a fermenter?? I always cold crash my fermenter after dry hop...usually 24 hrs as close to freezing as you can get it...the bulk of the hops literally just drop to the bottom...I also lean my fermenter back so that everything settles and coagulates away from my spigot...and then when I transfer I do the same thing ...keeping fermenter tilted back ...the close to freezing temp usually solidifies whatever is on bottom pretty well so it doesn't move much...but here's the thing for when i crash my fermenter...its a fermonster from more beer so its plastic..the crash causes it to suck in air threw the airlock...so what I have done in the past is put a really long blow off tube on it in a cup of star san mix...this way it only draws the mix and no air...but it can also cause it to try to collapse on itself because of that draw..so i have to have to be careful...I've also seen some people talk about taking a co2 filled balloon and putting it over the airlock so that it draws only co2..with a glass carboy or keg this would be a non issue obviously since both can be sealed and are not made of plastic
 
marchuk96 said:
What do you have for a fermenter?? I always cold crash my fermenter after dry hop...usually 24 hrs as close to freezing as you can get it...the bulk of the hops literally just drop to the bottom...I also lean my fermenter back so that everything settles and coagulates away from my spigot...and then when I transfer I do the same thing ...keeping fermenter tilted back ...the close to freezing temp usually solidifies whatever is on bottom pretty well so it doesn't move much...but here's the thing for when i crash my fermenter...its a fermonster from more beer so its plastic..the crash causes it to suck in air threw the airlock...so what I have done in the past is put a really long blow off tube on it in a cup of star san mix...this way it only draws the mix and no air...but it can also cause it to try to collapse on itself because of that draw..so i have to have to be careful...I've also seen some people talk about taking a co2 filled balloon and putting it over the airlock so that it draws only co2..with a glass carboy or keg this would be a non issue obviously since both can be sealed and are not made of plastic
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I have an Ss Brewtech Brew Bucket. My problem is exactly as you describe. Thankfully not an NEIPA, but I ruined a batch recently when half a gallon of sanitizer got sucked back into the beer. My concern then is that even a cup of sanitizer and a long hose would still draw in all the sanitizer and plenty of air. I may have to try the balloon angle.
 
BrewCityBaller said:
I have an Ss Brewtech Brew Bucket. My problem is exactly as you describe. Thankfully not an NEIPA, but I ruined a batch recently when half a gallon of sanitizer got sucked back into the beer. My concern then is that even a cup of sanitizer and a long hose would still draw in all the sanitizer and plenty of air. I may have to try the balloon angle.
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You could always attach your Co2 line to the bucket. Purge it and slightly pressurize it, then turn off the gas and keep the line connected to it so it turns into a closed vessel
 
BrewCityBaller said:
I have an Ss Brewtech Brew Bucket. My problem is exactly as you describe. Thankfully not an NEIPA, but I ruined a batch recently when half a gallon of sanitizer got sucked back into the beer. My concern then is that even a cup of sanitizer and a long hose would still draw in all the sanitizer and plenty of air. I may have to try the balloon angle.
Click to expand...
I hear ya...I think the biggest concern is the draw of sanitizer and the collapse of fermenter and obviously the possible ingres of o2...I have yet to try the balloon idea for myself as I have no way to get co2 into a balloon effectively...
 
0[1].jpg


I have an anvil fermenter (similar to SS brewtech bucket) just got this blow tie to use as a spunding valve. Put this on at the end of fermentation at a low pressure with a solid bung. No air suck back. if you have a plastic fermenter brew hardware sells these. Not many good reviews but probably still working out the parts.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm
 
marchuk96 said:
I hear ya...I think the biggest concern is the draw of sanitizer and the collapse of fermenter and obviously the possible ingres of o2...I have yet to try the balloon idea for myself as I have no way to get co2 into a balloon effectively...
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This is what I do, rubber band a short piece of tubing onto one of those flimsy produce bags (unused) The tube will fit into the end of the blow off, fill the bag with CO2, hold finger over end and insert into end of blowoff, start cold crash. The picture shows the result after crashing from 72 to 45 and the bag is nearly collapsed. Very simple and no O2 or starsan sucked in. I have always had the hops drop by 45 degrees.
SAM_1446.JPG
 
What's everyone's experience on when the taste is optimal? I brewed 6 Jan and Kegged and force carbed Tuesday. It tastes green to me, but super citrus flavors. Lol my wife says it tastes like dirt though.
 
Cartman98 said:
What's everyone's experience on when the taste is optimal? I brewed 6 Jan and Kegged and force carbed Tuesday. It tastes green to me, but super citrus flavors. Lol my wife says it tastes like dirt though.
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Mine usually tastes great right away, I have made some other NEPAS that took a week to mellow out, usually a hop bite issue. Wait a week (if you can) and see how it is.
 
tld6008 said:
Mine usually tastes great right away, I have made some other NEPAS that took a week to mellow out, usually a hop bite issue. Wait a week (if you can) and see how it is.
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I concur. The only issue I have ever found is a spicy hop particulate character. I notoriously get it when I use high dryhop rates of Columbus and galaxy. Sometimes citra will cause me to wait a week until it sets in nice
 
Cartman98 said:
What's everyone's experience on when the taste is optimal? I brewed 6 Jan and Kegged and force carbed Tuesday. It tastes green to me, but super citrus flavors. Lol my wife says it tastes like dirt though.
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Usually a week after racking.
 
tld6008 said:
This is what I do, rubber band a short piece of tubing onto one of those flimsy produce bags (unused) The tube will fit into the end of the blow off, fill the bag with CO2, hold finger over end and insert into end of blowoff, start cold crash. The picture shows the result after crashing from 72 to 45 and the bag is nearly collapsed. Very simple and no O2 or starsan sucked in. I have always had the hops drop by 45 degrees.
View attachment 610181
Click to expand...
Clean that tap line, looks nasty
 
tld6008 said:
This is what I do, rubber band a short piece of tubing onto one of those flimsy produce bags (unused) The tube will fit into the end of the blow off, fill the bag with CO2, hold finger over end and insert into end of blowoff, start cold crash. The picture shows the result after crashing from 72 to 45 and the bag is nearly collapsed. Very simple and no O2 or starsan sucked in. I have always had the hops drop by 45 degrees.
View attachment 610181
Click to expand...
I do a similar thing with a 1gal ziplock bag, tube pushed thru a corner then taped. Going from 70 to 40 not much volume left in the bag after 24 hours.
 
Cartman98 said:
What's everyone's experience on when the taste is optimal? I brewed 6 Jan and Kegged and force carbed Tuesday. It tastes green to me, but super citrus flavors. Lol my wife says it tastes like dirt though.
Click to expand...

i get the same bite....it is gone after 3-5 days and then it falls into its prime after 7-10 days in keg ...especially cryo hops...takes a bit bit longer to flock out
PianoMan said:
faak. Hate this style. Even under CO2 pressure got oxidized in 2 weeks. Going back to wcipas..
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...dont give up bro...west coasts are delicious but n.e 's take a little more practice to perfect...once you make a good one youll never look back brother...lol....practice makes perfect man!!!!
 
BrewCityBaller said:
I have an Ss Brewtech Brew Bucket. My problem is exactly as you describe. Thankfully not an NEIPA, but I ruined a batch recently when half a gallon of sanitizer got sucked back into the beer. My concern then is that even a cup of sanitizer and a long hose would still draw in all the sanitizer and plenty of air. I may have to try the balloon angle.
Click to expand...
so i have discovered with the help of dgallo that my co2 out line fits perfectly into the bung of my fermonster...simply put..problem solved i think
 
plazola86 said:
View attachment 610178

I have an anvil fermenter (similar to SS brewtech bucket) just got this blow tie to use as a spunding valve. Put this on at the end of fermentation at a low pressure with a solid bung. No air suck back. if you have a plastic fermenter brew hardware sells these. Not many good reviews but probably still working out the parts.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm
Click to expand...

Saw that rig for sale on aliexpress. How does it do at low pressures?
 
SanPancho said:
Saw that rig for sale on aliexpress. How does it do at low pressures?
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I think I will try this set up with my flimsy produce bags, I like the idea of using fermentation gas to fill the bag. Of course the bag side of the T needs to offer the path of least resistance in order to fill up. The CCG bag looks a little stiff and with the produce bag they don't weigh anything and you use a new one each time so no need to clean but if you attached after peak fermentation that shouldn't be a problem as long as the bag still filled.
 
this style just shouldn’t be bottled conditioned. Not saying it can’t with extreme dedication, but it only takes a little oxygen contact and it will degrade
 
At our last homebrew group meeting we drank all the 2nd bottles that didn't make best of show for the competition we host and almost every single neipa was brown
 
milldoggy said:
dont give up, you cant do it, mine have been real shelf stable since moving to clearing kegs with fermentation and pressurized transfer.
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Yeah, sounds like the next step. Just did a cold brew Belgian IPA, very cloudy due to the wheat DME. Added cryo hops in with yeast/DME/RO, no heat on anything. Out of the fermenter this is incredible! Bottled some and kegged some. Used Bella Saison yeast. Curious on its self life either way.

20190202_124221_Film2.jpeg
 
tld6008 said:
Can you think of any point where O2 can get to you beer post fermentation? Since I stopped bottling this style I have had ZERO issues with oxidation and I am not doing anything extreme.
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I have a Fermentasaurous. Added hops at day 2 fermentaion then day 10. Stayed under pressure entire process at 6-8psi. I guess the 2nd dry hop could have done it. Was going to do pressurize xfer to keg with a strainer, cryo hops and pre purged but ended up using it. Thought I could get away with a quick addition then purge the **** out of the Fermentasaurous. It was damn good for about 2 weeks.
 
PianoMan said:
I have a Fermentasaurous. Added hops at day 2 fermentaion then day 10. Stayed under pressure entire process at 6-8psi. I guess the 2nd dry hop could have done it. Was going to do pressurize xfer to keg with a strainer, cryo hops and pre purged but ended up using it. Thought I could get away with a quick addition then purge the **** out of the Fermentasaurous. It was damn good for about 2 weeks.
Click to expand...
Rack to keg with points remaining and you're oxygen worries go away
 
PianoMan said:
I have a Fermentasaurous. Added hops at day 2 fermentaion then day 10. Stayed under pressure entire process at 6-8psi. I guess the 2nd dry hop could have done it. Was going to do pressurize xfer to keg with a strainer, cryo hops and pre purged but ended up using it. Thought I could get away with a quick addition then purge the **** out of the Fermentasaurous. It was damn good for about 2 weeks.
Click to expand...
This seems like a long shot but have you checked the purity of your CO2? I only do one DH basically following the Braufessors recipe, I ferment in a glass 6 gal. carboy. I fill keg w/ starsan and push out w/ CO2. When I keg I use one of those orange carboy caps with racking cane in center and CO2 barb on side and push with CO2 on top of beer forcing beer it into keg through cane and tubing, I CO2 purge all tubing and cane before putting into carboy. I keep carboy and keg at same elevation to eliminate possible siphon relying on pressure from CO2 to move beer. The one weak part of the process is I open the keg top and put a tube from the cane to the bottom of the keg, the opening is mostly covered with the lid during this time. This is the only time O2 could get to the beer but with the keg full of CO2 and beer level rising no O2 can get in. I use a slow rate to move beer 1-2 psi.takes about 3-4 minutes. Once the keg is filled I purge headspace 3 times.
I'm sure you have heard this all before but it has not been all that difficult. You also could have more sensitive taste buds than I do. What about some of your brewing friends results?
 
tld6008 said:
This seems like a long shot but have you checked the purity of your CO2?
I'm sure you have heard this all before but it has not been all that difficult. You also could have more sensitive taste buds than I do. What about some of your brewing friends results?
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Thought about that also. No way of easily testing tho. Friends detect it also.

This Belgian IPA is fracking incredible tho. 3lbs golden light/wheat each. 3.5gal RO w/gypsum and CaCl, 1ml Lactic Acid added. Does that make it a Belgian NEIPa?? 1oz each Citra/Mosaic cryo and small amount of Simcoe cryo hops, Bella Saison yeast all added at
result_1549142974733.jpeg
same time. Literally 5min brew.
 
So I brought a sample in to my LHBS and the owner thinks my brew has a vegetal off flavor because of over exposure to the hops. The beer was in contact with the dry hops for 15-18 days using the OPs 3rd recipe 1:1:1 with 6 oz post boil and 6 oz dry hop addition. I dry hop on day 3 of fermentation and let it sit a week longer than the recipe calls for before racking this batch. Anyone else have this experience?
 
Cartman98 said:
So I brought a sample in to my LHBS and the owner thinks my brew has a vegetal off flavor because of over exposure to the hops. The beer was in contact with the dry hops for 15-18 days using the OPs 3rd recipe 1:1:1 with 6 oz post boil and 6 oz dry hop addition. I dry hop on day 3 of fermentation and let it sit a week longer than the recipe calls for before racking this batch. Anyone else have this experience?
Click to expand...
I have never left it over 10 days after DH, depends on when FG is reached.
 
Cartman98 said:
So I brought a sample in to my LHBS and the owner thinks my brew has a vegetal off flavor because of over exposure to the hops. The beer was in contact with the dry hops for 15-18 days using the OPs 3rd recipe 1:1:1 with 6 oz post boil and 6 oz dry hop addition. I dry hop on day 3 of fermentation and let it sit a week longer than the recipe calls for before racking this batch. Anyone else have this experience?
Click to expand...

Yes - Big problem for me when ferment in keg and did the Dryhop in keg and transfers with few points or previous attempts to keg ferment & serve in same vessel.

I switched back to speidels and Now I only dryhop after FG - single addition for 24hrs then cold crash and rack to SV keg. Nothing but bright, citrus, fruit joose - no vegetables
 
Can’t stress enough about the effects of oxygen on this style. Beer is still good in the keg, slight deterioration, may have had some contact. However, I bottle some of the beers from the keg without a counter-pressure filler. They were in the bottle for 6-9 days and shipped. Both were much darker than beer leaving my taps and flavor was shot
 
Even a closed transfer will still take in some O2 so it really depends on when you transferred it. Not saying that amount will be detrimental...only that you can't say it has not been exposed just because of a closed transfer, unless you did it while there was some active fermentation which would scrub any intake quickly.
 
Hannabrew said:
Even a closed transfer will still take in some O2 so it really depends on when you transferred it. Not saying that amount will be detrimental...only that you can't say it has not been exposed just because of a closed transfer, unless you did it while there was some active fermentation which would scrub any intake quickly.
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I’ve tried that before and it’s never really worked out for me. I’ve always ended up with slight fusel or acetaldehyde off flavors when taking the beer off the yeast before fg and a rest. I have quick fix in mind using my gas line. Connecting it to the FV with 2 points left and set for 1 psi through crash up until racking into the SV
 
Hannabrew said:
Even a closed transfer will still take in some O2 so it really depends on when you transferred it. Not saying that amount will be detrimental...only that you can't say it has not been exposed just because of a closed transfer, unless you did it while there was some active fermentation which would scrub any intake quickly.
Click to expand...
I've read that yeast only consumes oxygen in the beginning of their cycle so this technique would not help in that case.
Any yeast experts here that confirm this?
 

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