I have a 6.5 gal fermenter, batch size into it was 5.5 gal so had plenty of head room, so I wasn't too worried. I highly recommend it if you have a big enough fermenter.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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I have a 6.5 gal fermenter, batch size into it was 5.5 gal so had plenty of head room, so I wasn't too worried. I highly recommend it if you have a big enough fermenter.
stickyfinger
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are u questioning the size of my fermenter? seriously, i fill mine too full. should cut back to 5.5-5.75
plazola86
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I already have three different yeast strains in my fridge but this one sounds like I need to give it a try. Brau keep us posted on the final verdict on this one.
mintyice
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plazola86
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What, my opinion isn't good enough?
I've actually read your bloq twice about your beer! This yeast sounds like something I want to always keep on hand. I'm currently working with a strain produced by an HBT member in Finland who combined/mated (not sure about the science) conan and wlp644 together.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577066
milldoggy
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Doing the same, just cold crashed, cant wait to keg this weekend, used f1.
Had followed Brau's hop additions for my first 2 extract batches, both came out awesome. One with Simcoe, Galaxy & Citra and 1217 & the other with Mosaic, Galaxy & Citra and 1318. Both hazy until they kicked.
Ventured into my first batch of all grain following the recipe on post #1418 but with WLP095 with a 1L starter.
OG 1.049 / FG 1.007 / 5.5%
Both dry hops in primary (did not like messing with keg hops), racked to the keg from primary under CO2 on day 12, carbed for 24 hours @ 30 psi. This was the first pour yesterday. Needs a couple of more days to carb up, but hot damn:
Ventured into my first batch of all grain following the recipe on post #1418 but with WLP095 with a 1L starter.
OG 1.049 / FG 1.007 / 5.5%
Both dry hops in primary (did not like messing with keg hops), racked to the keg from primary under CO2 on day 12, carbed for 24 hours @ 30 psi. This was the first pour yesterday. Needs a couple of more days to carb up, but hot damn:
motosapiens
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actual finished water *Adjustment*. it's telling you how much ppm of minerals you need to add based on the desired water profile you selected on line 5. none of the desired profiles really apply to NEIPA, so i just ignore it.
motosapiens
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my only question is why are you waiting 4 days before adding the first dry hops? All 3 times I have made NEIPA in the last few months, using 1318, my gravity was at or under 1.020 by 48 hrs, so I have just adopted the habit of throwing in the first dry hops 2 days after pitching the yeast, and then the 2nd addition 4 days later (total of 6 days after pitching).
Thanks for the clarification! I've been reading this wrong for a little while!
NothingRhymesWithCurtiss
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I've never attempted this style before, so thank you for the feeback.
Assuming that I'm tossing in the 2nd dry hop addition 6 days after pitching yeast, should I add a 3rd dry hop addition, or just let the 2 additions sit another 8 days or so before bottling?
Brewed this exactly as posted but had to sub for Galaxy as it was not available. Used Pacifica in its place. Best beer I've brewed to date. Honestly, it's better than any ipa I can find locally.
Anybody try a version of this with some dank hops? I'm planning my next batch and was thinking of trying this with Columbus and Galaxy. Any thoughts on how this combination might turn out?
Any other successful combinations that add some dank qualities with the fruity hops?
Anybody try a version of this with some dank hops? I'm planning my next batch and was thinking of trying this with Columbus and Galaxy. Any thoughts on how this combination might turn out?
Any other successful combinations that add some dank qualities with the fruity hops?
Instead of going by X days, you could just do it as soon as the krausen falls. My understanding is that you'd still have a couple points of gravity to go at that point.
To me, that seems more reliable than basing it off someone else's experience. Not to discredit that experience, just that there are unknown variables between homebrewers. Maybe he pitches more, or fresher yeast than you, or at a higher temperature, or aerates his wort more, or has a different shaped fermenter, etc.
Either way you'll end up with good beer.
Tarpon87
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im sure this has been answered somewhere in here but there is too many pages to go through. Are you guys who do 2 dry hops leaving the first one in the whole time or do you remove it when you do the second?
I leave both in. I just throw the pellets in with no hop sock or anything to contain them. I try to cold crash for ~48 hours or more before kegging to help drop particulates out.
OP
OP
I did a Citra/Columbus that I liked quite a bit. 2:1 Heavy toward Citra.
The hops I have liked the most - Citra, Galaxy, Mosaic, Simcoe, Amarillo... basically any combination.
I have not played with a lot of the newer more experimental hops that much. I used Azacca and thought that was solid. I used equinox along with columbus and thought it was too much. Personally, I would use one or the other in the future if I did it again.
Dank hops - I really have not liked most other than columbus. I have not tried tons though either. Not as big a fan of the dank hops in this - however, that is purely personal preference. I think lots of people have liked going int that direction.
Hops I have not had a ton of success with in these beers - the classic hops - Chinook, Centennial, Cascade, etc. I find them "dry"and sharp as opposed to "full" and flavorful.
NothingRhymesWithCurtiss
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Doesn't the cold crash kill some of the "haze" that NEIPAs are known for?
Also, fair to assume that you're not using Whirlfloc/Irish Moss?
Unless you're drinking your beer at room temp, you're cold crashing it at one time or another.
PlinyTheMiddleAged
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Agreed. The NE IPAs that I have made stay cloudy during the entire time they are on tap - maybe they get a bit more clear towards the end of their life, but they are still cloudy. And I use Irish moss.
Even with clear wort, my NE IPAs are hazy. I think it comes from dry hopping during active fermentation. My most recent NE IPA used only barley (and corn sugar) in the grain bill - no flaked oats, wheat, etc. and I used Irish Moss. The result was nice, clear wort going into the fermenter. I dry hopped when the bubble rate out of the airlock was slowing down, and this is what it looks like now (and I have made crystal clear west coast IPAs as well).
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1487955972.693866.jpg
Oldskewl
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I was considering an addition of Apollo on my next batch as well. I found an ounce in the freezer, left over from an off the topper kit last year. Figured this beer would be a good place to use it.
I used Apollo in my last batch, like it. Could use that 1oz as your bittering hop.
I've brewed four NE IPAs, judging from my notes. All have been crazy hazy. All have been Wyeast 1318. All have been cold crashed. If any of these had been crystal clear and tasted good I would not have cared. Haze wasn't the goal. The goal was a smooth sipping, mildly bittered, juicy, tasty, very aromatic, hop explosion.
You are correct that I have not use Whirlfloc/Irish Moss in these beers. Generally, I do use Irish Moss for clarity. Years ago I bought a whole pound of Irish moss and probably have 15 ounces left after using it in an untold number of batches, lol.
Here's a pic of two of them.
stickyfinger
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There seem to be a lot of cold-crash questions. These are my experiences:
If you don't do it, you may or may not have a hard time getting the beer out of the fermentor with such a large dryhop charge that these beers use. If you don't have problems, don't worry about it. If you do, try a cold crash, and it should solve your problem. It only really takes overnight to get the major hop chunks to the bottom of the carboy.
For those fearing ruining the beer by cold-crashing due to hoppiness dropping out: What do you do with the beer after you rack it? Don't you put it into your keezer and carbonate it? That is going to crash the hops as fast as anything, especially with the lower pH I would think. Don't worry. The beer will be awesome if you cold crash. In fact, I have been noticing on my last few batches that the flavor gets better over the first week or as more of the yeast and coarser hop flavors drop out. It is still a super hop bomb but much rounder and better a lot of the time, though not always. If you store your beer warm in the hopes of not crashing out hop flavor, I think you are probably losing a lot more hop flavor to oxidation, as oxidation and other negative reactions are going to occur way way faster at room temp or cellar temp than at keezer temp.
Don't fear the cold crash!
motosapiens
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depending on the yeast, that may still be pretty late. using the 1318 my krauesen doesn't fall until 10-14 days, sometimes not until i coool it off prior to bottling. all the foam made it somewhat challenging to measure the gravity, which is why i just went by time after that. This time I'm using 1450, so i'll probably have to measure that, but it is much less kraueseny so far.
motosapiens
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people do both. previous batches i put first dry hops into primary, then racked into secondary onto 2nd dry hops, leaving first hops behind. Based on what I've read here, i'm going to just throw both into primary this time at 2 days(assuming the gravity is where I want it) and 6 days and bottle half and keg half after 10 days.
jakturner
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I usually use Columbus or apollo in a lot of NEIPAs I've made. Mostly small charge at 60 and 10, 5, flameout/hopstand, and only a tiny bit in dry hop because it will tend to dominate (especially with keg hopping). But I find it adds a different level of flavor to the beer that I like, IMO just straight fruit juice can get a bit boring after 5-6 batches.
On a side note, I started adding a 10 and 5 min additions back into my hop schedule after about a year of just adding flameout and hop stand at 170*, I feel like it's adds more actual hop flavor to the overall finish of the beer. Anyone else experience that?
stickyfinger
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I've tried all sorts of hops in these, and they all taste great. some super fruit bombs, some dank and fruit, some just dank. it doesn't matter. use any and all and all combos. many work.
apollo, summit, comet, CTZ, simcoe - all will give a lot to a good amount of dank. i hear x331 is pretty dank. i haven't tried mine yet. mosaic can give some pretty good dank as 50-100% of the dryhop. citra even gives a little dank if you really load it up as a single-hop.
stickyfinger
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i've wondered this as well. I got a ton of hop character in a Jubelale clone i did by adding hops at 30 and 20 minutes. i did do a 15 minute recirc after killing the heat though, to sanitize my wort chiller.
brulosophy also found a 20 minute addition equal to a 20 minute hopstand in one xbmt.
I love Summit in these types of beers... mind you I love it at about 1:6 compared to Citra but I really do think it adds something that is otherwise lacking.
hopbrad
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+1 on the apollo and/or columbus to add in some dankness.
doublebogey10
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Made an overly dank WC IPA last summer: Summit, Apollo, Comet, Chinook and Columbus.
Mosaic is way more dank than people acknowledge. It may have great fruitiness, but it packs serious dank
Cavpilot2000
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My most recent attempt.
Delicious and tons of fruit, but I grossly underestimated the bitterness contribution of a heavy flameout addition.
It is expected bitterness for a normal DIPA, but is still super drinkable at 8% ABV.
Delicious and tons of fruit, but I grossly underestimated the bitterness contribution of a heavy flameout addition.
It is expected bitterness for a normal DIPA, but is still super drinkable at 8% ABV.
Tarpon87
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1 week in primary, FG was 1.011. Getting anxious.
