New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[grassfeeder]

What the papazian are you thinking? That's just madness

What do you suggest the total hop bill should weigh in at?

 

[Paps]

i just had a nightmare that my 12 gallons of ipa with conan shot up to 72F b/c the probe fell off of the carboys.

First world problems...LOL

 

[m00ps]

What do you suggest the total hop bill should weigh in at?

Sorry, I was being facetious. I've managed to cram 32oz or more in a 5.5gal batch on a few occaisions with great results.

Nothing to see here. Keep on keeping on folks....

 

[brew703]

the hops were based on a 3.5 gal batch. only want to do a minimal dry hop.
guess ill play around with the hop amts.

 

[grassfeeder]

the hops were based on a 3.5 gal batch. only want to do a minimal dry hop.
guess ill play around with the hop amts.

for a 3.5 gallon batch I'd be doing a very minimal bittering hop, just enough to give you around 30-40 IBU's at most. Probably do 3-4 ounces in the whirlpool at 4 ounces dry hop. you're going to get majority of all your aroma and flavoring from the whirlpool and dry hop stages so don't be shy.

 

[brew703]

for a 3.5 gallon batch I'd be doing a very minimal bittering hop, just enough to give you around 30-40 IBU's at most. Probably do 3-4 ounces in the whirlpool at 4 ounces dry hop. you're going to get majority of all your aroma and flavoring from the whirlpool and dry hop stages so don't be shy.

I've had oxidation issues with large DH additions (since I bottle). I don't want to go any more than 2oz dry hop and want the rest at zero and WP.
I've never had any oxidation issues with the APA's I brew but I've never had large DH additions like I do with the NEIPA's.

 

[grassfeeder]

I've had oxidation issues with large DH additions (since I bottle). I don't want to go any more than 2oz dry hop and want the rest at zero and WP.
I've never had any oxidation issues with the APA's I brew but I've never had large DH additions like I do with the NEIPA's.

yeah, these NEIPA's are a fickle beast for sure.....but soooo worth it! let us know your results!

 

[scottsor]

Since the topic of bottling and oxidation has been brought up...has anybody actually had success bottling this style? I brewed this past Saturday and am hoping to keg next weekend. Problem is I'll be out of town a lot leading up to it and might not have all of the equipment in time, which would force me to bottle.

This is my first attempt at this style (first attempt all grain actually), so I'm not really shooting for the moon. But if bottling is going to oxidize and drastically change the end product I'll do my best to make kegging happen.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

 

[FruityHops]

I have not had any success bottling this style. If you have to bottle it then attach your bottle filling wand to your racking cane and skip transferring to a bottling bucket. Also place carbonation tablets in each bottle before filling them, don't mix priming solution into the batch, and cap each bottle immediately (some would argue that point).

I had always tried going to a separate bottling bucket with priming solution, but supposedly the method outlined above is better. I've given up on bottling and I'm going to be kegging for the first time this weekend. I'm tired of having a good batch become darker and taste "maltier" after bottle conditioning.

I think the head space in the bottles coupled with the fact they sit warm for two weeks while carbonating is a recipe for disaster regardless of any other precautions you can take when bottling.

 

[grassfeeder]

I would wait for you to keg this and then bottle from the keg. I've had great success doing this. I purge each bottle then fill at very very very low PSI and cap immediately.

 

[scottsor]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. Looks like I'll do my best to get a keg setup ready to go.

I'll be sure to update with my progress

 

[LJvermonster]

How easy is it to oxidize a beer? I brewed fermented in my primary bucket with a spigot like usual, added dry hops to the primary, then poured from the primary to the CO2 purged keg.

During the transfer, at the start, I noticed there was quite a bit of bubbles in the tube going into the keg. When I tried the beer with zero carbonation it was fantastic. Had serious potential, the wife even loved it. Now, it tastes like a very sub par beer with a distinct homebrew oxidized (I assume that's it) flavor.

This is just due to the bubbles at the transfer? I opened the spigot up fully open and let it go as fast as possible.

 

[EMH5]

I have not had any success bottling this style. If you have to bottle it then attach your bottle filling wand to your racking cane and skip transferring to a bottling bucket. Also place carbonation tablets in each bottle before filling them, don't mix priming solution into the batch, and cap each bottle immediately (some would argue that point).

I had always tried going to a separate bottling bucket with priming solution, but supposedly the method outlined above is better. I've given up on bottling and I'm going to be kegging for the first time this weekend. I'm tired of having a good batch become darker and taste "maltier" after bottle conditioning.

I think the head space in the bottles coupled with the fact they sit warm for two weeks while carbonating is a recipe for disaster regardless of any other precautions you can take when bottling.

I did not have success bottling this type of beer. Tried it once and after 1 month, it turned brown. It was a DIPA made with 15 oz of hops Citra, Centennial, Chinook and Galaxy. Tasted great after 3 weeks but then it changed quickly. After 6-7 weeks it was not even drinkable. I made one version to keg and have at home and bottled a version to take on the go if I wanted (I have a single tap) so I wasn't drinking them at the same clip. I have kegged a version of this recipe 4 times with no issue at all.

I'd be interested to hear from people that have had success in bottling this.

 

[crusader1612]

That'd be oxidation.

 

[stickyfinger]

my club splits wort and then we return to taste it. no one who bottles has approached the hoppiness of those who keg despite similar hopping rates.

 

[Braufessor]

Hey all. Been trying to get some brewing done, but schedule this time of year is not very friendly to me. One positive update though.... I had brewed 3 batches of this a few weeks back to have on hand when family visited. All 3 batches were basically the updated version. Used 1056 and 1272 in them. One was Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy, one was Citra/Mosaic and one was Citra/Galaxy.

I have to say, the Citra/Galaxy (1.5:1.5 in all 4 additions) might be my favorite batch yet. I love it. That hop combo is definitely going right back to the top of the list for the next batch.

 

[olotti]

Since the topic of bottling and oxidation has been brought up...has anybody actually had success bottling this style? I brewed this past Saturday and am hoping to keg next weekend. Problem is I'll be out of town a lot leading up to it and might not have all of the equipment in time, which would force me to bottle.

This is my first attempt at this style (first attempt all grain actually), so I'm not really shooting for the moon. But if bottling is going to oxidize and drastically change the end product I'll do my best to make kegging happen.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

I never had oxidation issues until I started making these heavily hopped IPAs, don't know what it is but it happened. So I've done a few things to try to change that since I don't keg yet and they've seemed to help. First I don't double dry hop I take the whole dh and put it in primary all at one time whether it's 4 oz or 6 oz, I also now stopped cold crashing for a length of time, I would put my carboy in my fridge for 2-3 days now I only put it in the morning of bottling so it goes in maybe 4-5 hrs I do this jiat to clear some of the yeast but it really may not matter and I'll prob stop cold crashing all together. I think cold crashing for day's Allows a lot of o2 to get in via the suck back and when I bottle I bottle six beers at a time and cap then move on where as before I'd bottle 12-24 then cap. This has seemed to help as the last few ne style IPAs I made using these methods never had any oxidation even after a month being bottled where before doing a double dry hop, cold crashing and the bottling literally caused some beers to oxidize in two weeks. I also saw in another thread that dry hopping near the end of active fermentation helps scrub out some of the O2 if any is introduced.

 

[EndOfLine]

I used to get a lot of oxidation when i cold crashed my fermenters. As the beer got colder, air would rush into the airlock, bubbling in reverse.

Now I only cold crash in pressured kegs. I also now close transfer from my conical to the dry hopping keg.
After 4-7 days of keg hopping I'll put the dry hopping keg in my fridge and put the gas on. After 2-4 days of cold crashing in the keg I'll close transfer the beer to a serving keg. I may do it again after a week if I am taking the keg to a party or a competition.

 

[Duffbrew]

Brau- This is great to hear, I have a batch of 100% Galaxy that is about to be kegged and carbed, will report back with the findings. Been very interested about the Citra / Galaxy combo, will have to do that next.

 

[JJ900]

Hi Guys,
Suppose you were using a Tilt (that thing that measures SG during fermentation) - at what gravity would you want to put the first dry hop in at to get the biotransformation magic? Assuming e.g. Braufessor's OG of 1.060-1.065ish.

 

[armenianbrewer]

Anyone use WLP644 for this style beer?

Thoughts on this version (3 gal batch, 70% eff, OG 1.059, FG 1.008est)

2-Row, 65.5%
White Wheat, 10.9%
Honey Malt, 7.3%
Flaked Barley, 5.5%
Flaked Wheat, 5.5%
Flaked Oats, 5.5%

1-2 g, Warrior, 16, Boil, (help with boil over)
0.5 oz, Amarillo, 8.6, Whirlpool at 212 °F, 5-10 minutes (leaf hops)
0.5 oz, Mosaic, 12.3, Whirlpool at 212 °F, 5-10 minutes
0.5 oz, Galaxy, 14.3, Whirlpool at 212 °F, 5-10 minutes
0.5 oz, Amarillo, 8.6, Whirlpool at 160 °F, 20-30 minutes (leaf hops)
0.5 oz, Mosaic, 12.3, Whirlpool at 160 °F, 20-30 minutes
0.5 oz, Galaxy, 14.3, Whirlpool at 160 °F, 20-30 minutes
0.5 oz, Amarillo, 8.6, Dry Hop, 8-9 days on day of 4 of fermentation (leaf hops)
0.5 oz, Mosaic, 12.3, Dry Hop, 8-9 days on day of 4 of fermentation
0.5 oz, Galaxy, 14.3, Dry Hop, 8-9 days on day of 4 of fermentation
0.5 oz, Amarillo, 8.6, Keg hop (in serving keg), until kicked? (leaf hops)
0.5 oz, Galaxy, 14.3, Keg hop (in serving keg), until kicked?
0.5 oz, Mosaic, 12.3, Keg hop (in serving keg), until kicked?

total of 2oz each amarillo, galaxy and mosaic for 6 oz. should dry hops and keg hops be bigger? maybe 1oz each at dry hop and keg hop?

 

[rtracer]

Forgot to mention when I kegged on Monday, I had enough left to fill 1 bomber, actually my first bottling(or bottle) ever. If my keg hangs around long enough, I will be able to compare the same beer from keg and from bottle. I did a Co2 transfer to the a purged keg, though...not so sure about the bottle I filled. We will see. Tapping my keg Friday.

How long is safe to open the bottle to be confident its been carbed...2 weeks? I used 1.5 of the bottle drop sugar things in the bottle. The bottle is currently in my hall closet at around 68*

 

[olotti]

Forgot to mention when I kegged on Monday, I had enough left to fill 1 bomber, actually my first bottling(or bottle) ever. If my keg hangs around long enough, I will be able to compare the same beer from keg and from bottle. I did a Co2 transfer to the a purged keg, though...not so sure about the bottle I filled. We will see. Tapping my keg Friday.

How long is safe to open the bottle to be confident its been carbed...2 weeks? I used 1.5 of the bottle drop sugar things in the bottle. The bottle is currently in my hall closet at around 68*

My bottles are usually carbed in 7 days but since u only have one Id wait atleast 10 days then put it in the fridge and wait another 3-4 days for everything to settle. Believe it or not I've noticed beer actually changing once it goes from the closet to the fridge to 1 week post fridge, that in between period like 3 days after its been in the fridge is really green.

 

[lasultana]

All 3 batches were basically the updated version. Used 1056 and 1272 in them.

Hi Thanks for the update. Whats your opinion on using these yeasts in this style? Did you taste a huge difference between them and 1318?

 

[geepmaley]

Looking for recipe critique for a brew this weekend

11 gallons

Lbs % Fermentable

9.5 35% Maris Otter
9.5 35% American Brewer's Two-Row
1 4% Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L
1 4% Carapils
2 7% Corn Sugar (Dextrose)
0.5 2% Honey Malt
4 15% Flaked Wheat

WY1318 London III yeast

SG 1.063
FG 1.010
ABV 6.9%
IBUs 77
Expected SRM 7
Estimated efficiency 68%

Hops Amt Time AA% IBUs

Millennium 2 60 16.6 51.0
Cascade 1 20 7.2 6.7
Citra 2 10 14.1 15.7
Simcoe 1 5 13 4.0

Azzaca 2 Whirlpool
Cascade 2 Whirlpool

Citra 3 Dry hop 1 14 days
Mosaic 3 Dry hop 1 14 days
Simcoe 3 Dry hop 1 14 days

Citra 3 Dry hop 2 7 days
Mosaic 3 Dry hop 2 7 days
Simcoe 3 Dry hop 2 7 days

Citra 2 Keg hop
Mosaic 2 Keg hop
Simcoe 2 Keg hop

Comments?

Brewed a midified version of this on 9/24. Modified the hop schedules to 1oz Millenium FWH 1 oz 60 mins and 2 mosaic at 10, 2 simcoe at 5, 2 Citra at flameout

chilled to 160, then 2/2/2 C/S/M in hop stand/whirlpool for 30 mins then chilled to 70 and split into 2 batches

For one batch primary fermentation in 10 days, then dry hopped 2/1/1 CSM for 5 days DH1, 1 Mosaic/ .75 Simcoe for DH2 4 more days (removed DH 1) all in primary fermenter. Racked to servings keg and carbd for 6 days, added 1 citra / .75 Simcoe for keg hops for 2 days. Brought to party on 10-15 and beer was gone that day. Well received by all

Buddy to the other half and is still playing with it.

 

[Braufessor]

Hi Thanks for the update. Whats your opinion on using these yeasts in this style? Did you taste a huge difference between them and 1318?

I am not a huge fan of 1318..... it is fine, but (for me) it puts too much yeast character into the beer. I get a "tart" flavor from it.

Generally, I have used Conan until a couple months ago when I started playing around with 1056 and 1272.

Honestly.... Both work great. I think I am more partial to 1272 because it does seem to add a bit more fruity esters.

I will probably go back and try conan some more and maybe brew a couple side by side batches with 1272 and Conan and just see if there is anything significantly better about one over the other. I also like 1272 because it lends itself to a lot of other beers.

Bottom line though - 1056 and 1272 work great in this beer. As I have said, many times, I personally think chasing "cloudy/hazy" with the yeast strain is counterproductive. You can get great mouthfeel, hazy, fruity, juice-like beers without the excess yeast in suspension that can then potentially impart "yeasty" flavors to the beer. I highly recommend giving them a try.

 

[cheesebach]

Has anyone used the relatively new WLP095 (Burlington Ale) to make a batch yet? It look like the nearest store that carries yeast bay products is about a 40 minute drive, but i could get the WLP095 at my usual LHBS. I've seen different anecdotal opinions about whether the WLP095 strain is or is not Conan, with some saying it is and others claiming that it the Magic Hat strain.

 

[stickyfinger]

I don't know where WLP095 comes from, but it is by far my preferred yeast for this style. I did a side by side with US-05 and MUCH PREFERRED THE WLP095. It was much softer, rounder, smoother. Great attenuator too.

 

[JJ900]

I don't know where WLP095 comes from, but it is by far my preferred yeast for this style. I did a side by side with US-05 and MUCH PREFERRED THE WLP095. It was much softer, rounder, smoother. Great attenuator too.

My LHBS said that 095 is what Conan came from.

 

[Johow]

From what I gather, WLP095 is pretty new so chances are more likely that Conan came before it and 095 therefore is a child of Conan...

 

[stickyfinger]

regardless of provenance, it makes great ipa and some report great dark ales too. i plan to try it in a head to head against WY1450-denny's fav in my next oaked bourbon porter. the 1450 is great in this style too

 

[Johow]

Hey Braufessor, I just brewed my take on your recipe! Thank you for posting and for starting this fine thread.
Here is what I did, I'm very excited about trying this style and look forward to tasting and sharing my results...Here is my variation, though as has been happening lately I exceeded my numbers by just a little.

Braufessors (New England) IPA

Brew Method: BIAB
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 6 gallons (fermentor volume)

Original Gravity: 1.054
Final Gravity: 1.014
ABV (standard): 5.3%
IBU (tinseth): 40.14
SRM (morey): 7.36

Fermentables:
5 lb - United Kingdom - Golden Promise (42.6%)
5 lb - United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale (42.6%)
0.5 lb - Flaked Barley (4.3%)
0.5 lb - Flaked Oats (4.3%)
0.25 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 75L (2.1%)
0.25 lb - American - Wheat (2.1%)
0.25 lb - Canadian - Honey Malt (2.1%)

Hops:
1 oz Warrior first wort hop
Flame out 1 oz each Amarillo, Citra & Mosaic
At 180 degrees, 1 oz each Amarillo, Citra & Mosaic hop stand for 30 minutes.
Dry hop #1, Day 3 or 4 as primary ferment winds down, 1 oz each Amarillo, Citra & Mosaic
Dry hop # 2, Day 6 or 7, 1 oz each Amarillo, Citra & Mosaic

Mash:
1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min 5.5 gallons
2) Dunk Sparge, Temp: 170 F 3 gal, Collect 8 gal wort

Yeast:
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318

I added 1.8 grams Calcium Chloride and .8 grams gypsum making for a Chloride/Sulfate ratio of about 2.3 to 1 for my local water.

Keg when it feels right!!!

 

[grassfeeder]

Id be curious how the above turns out. Looks to be waaaay too much sweetness for a NEIPA with both Golden Promise and MO along with Crystal 75 and Honey Malt all mashed at 152.

 

[Johow]

Possibly but the crystal and honey malt together only make up about 4% of the grist. I mashed for about 4 hours because I had to leave after mashing in and when I returned the temp had dropped about 10 degrees though I'm pretty sure it was within a couple degrees for at least an hour. Anyway, it's currently chugging away under the London ale III.

 

[stickyfinger]

it will be fine

 

[rtracer]

Here is mine, not quite fully carbed. Wow, nothing like any beer I have had or brewed before. Being here on the West Coast I have not had the opportunity to try the likes of Heady, Trillium ect. Although the style is catching on and Fieldworks in Berkley has one on tap I want to go try.
I'm calling it Morning Mimosa....cause that's kinda what it tasted like. Such a nice mouth feel. Looking forward to see how it progresses over the next couple weeks....if I can keep it around long enough.
Thanks for the recipe!!
OP's recipe with Galaxy, Citra and Equinox

 

[EndOfLine]

I just brewed an altered version of this with a crap ton of east Kent goldings, and a touch of chinook. "English summer, north eastern pale ale" anyone?

Also, my lager version of this turned out amazingly well.

 

[user 141939]

Has anyone used the relatively new WLP095 (Burlington Ale) to make a batch yet? It look like the nearest store that carries yeast bay products is about a 40 minute drive, but i could get the WLP095 at my usual LHBS. I've seen different anecdotal opinions about whether the WLP095 strain is or is not Conan, with some saying it is and others claiming that it the Magic Hat strain.

I thought magic hat used Ringwood yeast.

 

[grassfeeder]

I've done a few of these with pretty good results. Was thinking about mixing it up a bit and doing the following recipe. Thoughts?

American Pilsner - 65.6%
White Wheat - 13.1%
Flaked Oats - 13.1%
Dextrose - 4.9%
C20 - 3.3%

4 ounces of Citra Whirlpooled at 170 for 30 minutes
6 ounces Dry-hopped for 5 days

Imperial Yeast - A24 DryHop

 

[Johow]

I'd never heard of that yeast but took a look and it sounds promising for these hop bombs.