New concord pot marks

[jtp137]

Just got new 120qt concord kettle it looks a lot better than what I was expecting but there are some marks on the to where the handles are. Wonder what they could be could it be rust?

 

[ancientmariner52]

Looks to me like iron inclusions in the stainless steel. I see this all the time in low end imported stainless. You can try sanding them out, chemically removing them with CLR or other iron stain remover, or just live with them. You could try to get a different pot, but that stuff is probably throughout the coil of stock these things are made from. Disappointing, but I don't think the beer will notice.

 

[jtp137]

Looks to me like iron inclusions in the stainless steel. I see this all the time in low end imported stainless. You can try sanding them out, chemically removing them with CLR or other iron stain remover, or just live with them. You could try to get a different pot, but that stuff is probably throughout the coil of stock these things are made from. Disappointing, but I don't think the beer will notice.

Will it start to rust? I know I took a gamble on it but I wanted a 30 gallon pot and didn’t want to pay over $300 guess you get want you pay for

 

[MaxStout]

A little Barkeeper's Friend on a damp rag and some elbow grease. If it's just a surface stain, it should buff out. But if it's an inclusion, it won't and then you'll know.

I own 2 Concord kettles, never had those stains. I'm quite happy with mine. But those factories likely source their sheet stock from all over the place, so the quality may vary.

 

[ancientmariner52]

It already has started to rust, that's how you are able to see it. Will it spread? No. What you see is all there is, the question is how deep does it go? No way to tell without removing it.

 

[sillbeer]

I had a 20 gallon Concorde kettle, (actually only 18.5 gallons measured). I had zero issues with it and loved the quality at that price point. It was a good kettle for $80ish dollars. I grew out of it and wanted more so I went with a different brand for my new build.

 

[jtp137]

Had a second look its right were the handle is attached I can see marks on handle side as well. Was it tack welded to the pot

 

[sillbeer]

Probably tack welded. I wouldn't be too concerned.

Edit: Actually it is tack welded if you look at the mark from both sides with the pictures you posted.

 

[MaxStout]

Yeah, looks like the handle was spot welded, probably to hold it in place until it was riveted. The marks are from the spot welder electrodes. Doubt those will buff out. Shouldn't be a problem, though.

 

[ancientmariner52]

Yes, looks like light spot welds, just to keep it together while riveting. Nothing to worry about.

 

[day_trippr]

Give the Bar Keepers Friend treatment a go. I've run into similar issues with brand new appliances with stainless interiors that showed surface rust stains after first use. Scrubbed them with a BKF paste and they never came back...

Cheers!

 

[LarMoeCur]

Day Trippr hit the nail on the head. I had to give my Concords the BKF royal treatment. I had a few tooling marks and I got carried away with the torch when soldering in my fittings. I had to mix up a thick paste of BKF and water and with the corner of an old rag rolled into a ball. I really had polish those areas. It's not uncommon for pieces of non-stainless steel to get embedded into the stainless during the tooling process. The finished pots get acid dipped to remove these impurities but these pots or cheap for a reason. Some manufacturing steps get shortened or use cheaper chemicals to save money. Even the highest of dollar pots will have the same problems hopefully on a smaller level. You really need remove it completely. Once you do it will never come back.

 

[jtp137]

Thanks I will try that tonight. Other than the marks I am pretty happy with it. I was able to get a 30 gallon kettle, a 25 gallon mash tun with a false bottom cheaper than a 30 gallon spike or SS kettle. Little nervous about drilling the holes my old pots were aluminum and a lot softer. I have a 13/16 hole saw with some cutting fluid. Thinking of going that route verses the step bit

 

[ancientmariner52]

If you decide to use the hole saw, take the pilot drill out and replace it with a steel rod of the same size. Less likely to wabble around and make an oversize hole. In my experience, a hole saw in a hand held drill, on thin material, makes for a very poor quality hole.

 

[LarMoeCur]

Like Ancient said, I'd for go the whole saw completely. Step bit or knock out punch is the only way to cut a kettle.

 

[MaxStout]

Do you have access to a drill press? Makes the job more accurate and easier. Whatever bit you choose, go slowly and use plenty of oil. I've always used a step bit--add some oil, drill a step, add oil, drill another step, etc. A Dremel with a small grinding bit is good for deburring the hole.

 

[jtp137]

Just got her drilled. Used center punch and a nice cobalt 1/8 inch bit for pilot hole then lots of fluid and a step bit took it nice and slow smooth sailing thanks for the advice

 

[ancientmariner52]

Well done!

 

[jtp137]

I have another issue just noticed a scratch on the bottom the immediately rust when it touches water. I scrubbed the crap out of it with liquid bar keepers friend the rust went away but after a rinsed the pot it came back

 

[wilserbrewer]

I have found the powder BKF superior. It allows you to mix to a paste and also seems much more abrasive and polishing than the liquid version. The liquid does not perform like the powder ime.

 

[wilserbrewer]

...and leaving the paste in place for a period of time will also help to passionate the stainless.

 

[LarMoeCur]

Now that's a serious tool mark! You will have to scrub the snot out of it. Powdered BKF is the only BKF to use.

 

[jtp137]

It’s actually not that deep I surprised that it rusts so easily. I have deeper scratches on some of my cooking pots and they do not rust. Its a little disappointing but if I don’t get it out I am sure it would not affect the beer much

 

[ancientmariner52]

It isn't rusting because of the scratch, but because of high iron concentration at that point. This happens when the scrap metal used in manufacturing the stainless alloy is not thoroughly melted and mixed. This doesn't seem likely, but I have run into intact ball bearings and dowel pins inside of cast steel and iron parts.

Another source of contamination is in the rolling mill, where the red hot ingots are rolled out into plates, bars, and sheets. After rolling, products are usually 'pickled' in an acid bath. This removes most surface contamination, but won't remove anything deeply imbedded. So, lots of places for things to go worng.