NB Plinian Legacy questions

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rebel_scum

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About to brew this- I have an 8 gal brew kettle.

The instructions say it is a 6 gal yield (instead of 5) due to the massive hop additions, so I am a bit confused about how to go about this as the NB recipes always assume you are doing a partial boil starting with 2.5 gallons-

1. Should I try to go about 6 gallons for the pre-boil amount? I have fermcap to help with boil overs- I might even be able to squeeze 6.5 without too much trouble.

2. Should I top off with cold water to achieve a full 6 gallons after the 90 minute boil is done? If so , do I need to adjust the hop schedule any to accommodate for using a near full boil as opposed to 2.5 gallons?

3. Should I adjust the extract schedule at all? It calls for 4# DME at start and 6# LME at 1:15 (90 min boil). Also wants .75# corn sugar at flame out

Here is the hop schedule:

.25oz Amarillo pre-boil
10ML hop shot (injected hop oil)- 90 min
1 oz Columbus- 45 min
1 oz simcoe- 20 min
1.5 oz centennial/2.5oz simcoe -flame out (15 min hop stand)

Dry hop schedule:

1.5 oz Columbus/1 oz centennial/1 oz simcoe- 10 days
.5 oz Columbus/.5 oz simcoe/ .25 oz centennial/.25 oz Amarillo- 4 days

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Yeah, you want 6 gallons in the fermenter because you're really only going to get 5 out at the end due to the amount of hop sediment.
 
Brewing this tonight with a 2L starter of 1056. I'll let you know if the blowoff was necessary in a couple days here :)


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Brewing this as I type. I'm planning for a blowoff tube.

Also: So. Much. Hops.


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Definitely needed the tube!

Fermented with 45 seconds of pure o2 and a 1.5L starter (Wyeast 1056)

Had full kreus and insane blowoff within about 10 hours- it is still bubbling like a boiling kettle after 3 days in the carboy.
 
I brewed this 2 days ago without realizing it called for 6 gallons. I have 5 in the carboy, should I leave it be or add boiled top of water now? (Mine was all grain)
 
I am kegging 4.5 gallons and then bottling whatever is left- I use prime dose caps so I can bottle a few or a bunch each batch without having to worry about the mess of bottling from a carbed keg.

I usually just put the entire batch into the keg, pressurize, and immediately fill the bottles with the still uncarbed beer right from the tap on top of the caps - it works pretty slick!

Not sure about adding boiled water - I don't imagine it would hurt anything outside of the chance you might introduce oxygen. Perhaps make a gallon and add your first dry hop into it after fermentation is done?


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I am really wanting to try this kit. I do notice it wants the .75 corn sugar. I have only ever done extract and never seen an addition of it. What is its purpose at this stage of the process?

When I read joy of home brewing it says that it is not necessary. As this is so special I am assuming it is needed.

Thanks
 
I am really wanting to try this kit. I do notice it wants the .75 corn sugar. I have only ever done extract and never seen an addition of it. What is its purpose at this stage of the process?

When I read joy of home brewing it says that it is not necessary. As this is so special I am assuming it is needed.

Thanks

The corn sugar is there to up the gravity a little and dry out the beer.
 
If you brewed it at the 5 gallon mark of the carboy and then waited until after the krausen fell down some and then added the gallon of water, would the yeast use up the oxygen that you added in with the water? That way you didn't lose a gallon of beer to blow off and still get the full 6 gallons?
 
I've noticed that I like the taste of many hoppy beers better in the bottle with commercial beers. I can't recall being able to tell with home brew.
 
What OG are some of you getting adding the water? How much water are you adding also?
 
I hit right at 1.071 after adding the water. I didn't take a reading pre addition so not sure what the difference was.

I used a bit less than a gallon iirc- I just topped off to the 6 gal mark on my BK.

Force carbed and tapped this yesterday. I haven't had the original but it is quite good. The hops are surprisingly subtle and it finishes nice and dry. FG wound up at 1.012 for a 7.81 abv.


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Just ordered this kit with the WPL001 yeast pack from NB. This will be my first foray into dry hopping. I haven't decided whether to rack to a secondary or keep everything in the primary.

I noticed in the directions it says:
"14: Move the fermenter to a warm, dark, quiet spot until fermentation begins."

I thought you wanted to keep the yeast around 68-73 degrees (for WPL001). I'm putting together a brewpi but the instructions make it seem like I should just throw it in a spare closet or something.
 
Just ordered this kit with the WPL001 yeast pack from NB. This will be my first foray into dry hopping. I haven't decided whether to rack to a secondary or keep everything in the primary.

I noticed in the directions it says:
"14: Move the fermenter to a warm, dark, quiet spot until fermentation begins."

I thought you wanted to keep the yeast around 68-73 degrees (for WPL001). I'm putting together a brewpi but the instructions make it seem like I should just throw it in a spare closet or something.

Remember these guys are up in Minnesota...68-73 IS warm for them!
 
I read in a forum that doing a full boil as of opposed to the 2.5 gallon wouldn't affect the hop balance due to the late addition of the LME. The reasoning was above my level of technical understanding, but I went ahead and did a 5 gallon boil, topping off to 6 gallons. I hit the OG of 1.070, so that much is going as planned.
Has anyone tried both methods and if so, was there any noticeable difference in flavor? If so, is there a fix by dry hopping differently than instructed?
I plan on doing another batch and following the directions verbatim, mainly for test purposes. I just questioned the total water loss of 2.5 gallons over 90 minutes vs a 5 gallon boil.
 

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