MYPIN TD4 light flashing

[stever1000]

I am mashing right now with the element off and using the temp probe to monitor temperature

When I turn the element on the OUT1 light flashes, whether it is below the set point or above. Why is it flashing? I would understand its flashing if the temperature is at the set point and the element is flashing on/off. But its a few degrees below/above

When the temperature is below the set point it also overshoots

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Interesting that it comes one when your above the set temp. Its supposed to come on when called for power to the element when your below set temp.It usually comes on and off pretty often when your hovering around set temp to maintain the temp
Why are you mashing with the element off? That's the whole idea of the PID to monitor temp. Also are you BIAB? Ive overshot temps due to the small amount of water outside the bag overheating before the inside mash heated up.

 

[stever1000]

Interesting that it comes one when your above the set temp. Its supposed to come on when called for power to the element when your below set temp.It usually comes on and off pretty often when your hovering around set temp to maintain the temp

Exactly the reason for my confusion

 

[stever1000]

I will try autotuning again. I feel like one of the set values is too large, so if the actual value is near the set value (+/- 5*C) it thinks its close enough

i.e. set value is 100*C, it starts to flicker at 97*C or 102*C

 

[augiedoggy]

PIDs dont work with hysteresis like an stc1000...they dont just come on and stay on till the setppoint is reached and flash one every time it drops like a thermostat would.

Even when autotuned properly you will see them flash when over and under the desired setpoint. they do this because they are using fuzzy logic or pid parameters to try to predict the outcome and control it BEFORE and while the setpoint is reached.
jusdging by the 5 degree swing it sounds like your pid parameters may need to be tweaked or the system reautotuned... The grain bed with dramatically alter the autotune values because it effects the mass/ load on the pid so the best time to do so is with old grain right after a brew session...

You can try bringing the "I" value way down to 1 or 2 that helped tremendously with my mine and overshooting before I just autotunes them.

BTW I have no idea what country your in but you can change the readout to Fahrenheit if it makes it easier for you. Please disregard if your in Canada.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Swapping mine out today and will be cracking open the old one to see if I had a fake.What should I be looking for? Numbers ratings.I know it has something to do with a TRIAC that I've never heard of before now

Edit: Wrong thread sorry

 

[stever1000]

PIDs dont work with hysteresis like an stc1000...they dont just come on and stay on till the setppoint is reached and flash one every time it drops like a thermostat would.

Even when autotuned properly you will see them flash when over and under the desired setpoint. they do this because they are using fuzzy logic or pid parameters to try to predict the outcome and control it BEFORE and while the setpoint is reached.
jusdging by the 5 degree swing it sounds like your pid parameters may need to be tweaked or the system reautotuned... The grain bed with dramatically alter the autotune values because it effects the mass/ load on the pid so the best time to do so is with old grain right after a brew session...

You can try bringing the "I" value way down to 1 or 2 that helped tremendously with my mine and overshooting before I just autotunes them.

BTW I have no idea what country your in but you can change the readout to Fahrenheit if it makes it easier for you. Please disregard if your in Canada.

This is exactly what I need! Thanks for the info, I totally overlooked the fact that grain effected the original autotune. I will have to use some old grain and re-autotune it to compensate for the grain in the kettle
Thanks!!