My IPA what do y'all think of this?

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jmcvay252

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5 gallon batch

12.3 oz brown malt

1.5 oz crystal malt 20L

1 lb .2 oz mold malt

7 lbs 14.8 oz Munich malt

7 lbs 13.3 oz pale malt 2 row

1.07 oz cascade boil 30 mins

1.07 oz challenger boil 30 mins

1.07 oz centennial boil 60 mins

1.07 oz pilot boil 60 mins

Wyeast labs #1388


Jackofalltrades
 
Frankly, it looks pretty weird. The grainbill is leaning toward an English brown I would think, I assume that 3rd ingredient is mild malt? And is that really 1.5 ounces of crystal? For hops you've got all bittering,with nothing for flavor/aroma, and topped off with a Belgian yeast. Other than the fact that it looks very bitter I don't think it resembles an IPA, not sure what you're going for.
 
I agree with chickypad, that's a very odd looking recipe. Looks like a very bitter English brown, with an oddball yeast selection.

Suggestions:

Cut the mild and brown malt, unless you're looking for more of a black IPA/CDA, then replace them with a bit of chocolate malt and maybe a touch black malt, or perhaps some carafa.

Up the 2 row to 10-12 lbs, and cut the munich to 2 or 3 lbs, tops. Use between .5 to 1 lb crystal, but maybe consider switching to a 40 or 60 L.

Use the pilot and challenger for bittering, and the cascade and centennial at 10 minutes or less to get some hop flavor and aroma in there.

This will put you in the ballpark of an IPA, though I'd also strongly recommend adding 3-5 ounces of dry hops.

As for the yeast, you could keep that the same if you're wanting a slightly sweeter type IPA. If not, look for a strain that attenuates a little more.

I don't mean to completely pull apart your recipe, but if it's an IPA you're wanting, that recipe isn't going to get you there. But then again, I'm not really sure what it is you're shooting for.
 
Can you tell me the competition you plan to enter this in so I know I can beat on of the entries. No seriously. It is gonna suck. :D Ok now seriously. What everyone else said. Bitter with a side of bleh. Go ahead and drop some of the extra cent and cascade in later on and dry hop with the cascade if that is the flavor you are running with. Or screw the dry hop and drink in supper fresh and just go hog wild on the cascade and the cent at flame out. Seriously though, WTF is mold malt and where do I fund or how do I make this. Lambic style? Little anti"beer"otic. I have been lagging on my beer knowledge these days. Did I miss a new hot ingredient?
 
-15 lbs 2row
-1 lbs Munich or Vienna or victory
-1oz fuggle my leaf teabagged
-2oz cascade 90 min boil
-2oz cascade 60 min
-2oz cascade 30 min
-2oz citra 10 min

2 packs-safale-33... No temp control needed just keep it below 70 (and its a downright good dry yeast!)
 
Ok we'll this is what I was really looking for from you guys. I'm not sure what I'm doing lol this my first creation, so any info on how to make owner would be awesome. All I did was pick IPA and choose some ingredients that sounded good on beer smith. So the hops the the 2 30 min ones said that they were spicy and fruity aromas. That's why I shoes that and also the 1.5 oz malt is all that beer smith put in it so if I should take it out please tell me any other info on this please let me know. Thanks for not sugar coating it.


Jackofalltrades
 
Oh and sorry that is suppose to be mild malt that was in beer smith also.


Jackofalltrades
 
this my first creation [...] All I did was pick IPA and choose some ingredients that sounded good on beer smith.

In that case, I would highly recommend that you brew some pre-existing recipes first. Brew a few different IPAs using recipes already in Beersmith, or from the recipe database on this website. After 3-4, you'll start to get a feel for common ingredients and parameters that define the style. For example, you'll notice that IPAs are almost always dry hopped, and have a pretty simple grain bill. My house IPA recipe is just 14 lbs of 2 row, 1 lb of Crystal 40 for colour, and a half pound of Carafoam for lacing and head retention.

Once you've brewed a few known "good" recipes, then you'll be in a much better position to start creating your own recipe.
 
IPA's are usually pretty simple beers on the malt profile. The hopping is where it makes the difference.

I'd stay away from any roasted malts as it would detract from the hop flavors/aroma.

I usually stick with Pale malt, and some Crystal for color/body. And use plenty of hops, usually from the same family (American with American, etc).

MC
 
Okay, well that explains the odd look to it. I agree it may be easier to just find a tried and true recipe from the database or the Beersmith cloud. However if you want to go with what you've started, @Staylow pretty much has you on the right track. So say you're going for an American IPA you could do a grainbill something like this:

13 lb 2 row
1 lb Munich
0.5 lb crystal 20

You may need to adjust for your efficiency and target OG - I'd aim for something in the 1.065-1.075 range, You could swap out a lb or so of the 2-row for wheat if you like for extra head retention. For hops you could bitter with something high alpha at 60 like warrior or magnum (again play with the numbers but you could target something like 60-70 IBU's for the whole recipe). Then pick whatever hops sound good to you for flavor and aroma and do something like 1 oz at 15, 10, 5 min, plus 2 oz at flameout and 2-4 oz dry hop. Cascade and centennial will be mild floral and grapefruit, I've not used challenger so not sure how that will pair but this part is a lot of personal preference. For yeast US-05/WL001/Wyeast 1056 would be typical or you could pick another neutral yeast for an American style.
 
I have to agree with those above, get some experience first before designing a recipe.

I see a few are using Munich with 2 row. To make it simpler you could just use Marris Otter and skip the Munich.

I like 60L crystal for a little sweetness and color.

90 minute boils with hops at:
60
20
Flameout

Many ways to skin that cat.(original saying was catfish, which makes more sense, unless you really hate cats!)

Many good suggestions. Make it simple and then figure out where to go from there, if you need to!
 
I have to agree with those above, get some experience first before designing a recipe.


I have to disagree. :D I am from the **** them all camp in that I say go for it and learn from you mistakes. You can easily copy a recipe or listen to one of us but this hobby is about doing your own thing as well and if you think they will taste good and want to see then more power to you. Just realize that they are not all going to be winners and until you realize what ingredients are found in styles you wish to emulate, I would suggest sticking with the simple label of "beer". If you really want to learn from this experience, brew several iterations of this beer adding a new ingredient each round so that you can learn what you are adding and the flavor it is imparting. Enjoy the hobby. :tank:
 
I have to agree with those above, get some experience first before designing a recipe.


I have to disagree. :D I am from the **** them all camp in that I say go for it and learn from you mistakes. You can easily copy a recipe or listen to one of us but this hobby is about doing your own thing as well and if you think they will taste good and want to see then more power to you. Just realize that they are not all going to be winners and until you realize what ingredients are found in styles you wish to emulate, I would suggest sticking with the simple label of "beer". If you really want to learn from this experience, brew several iterations of this beer adding a new ingredient each round so that you can learn what you are adding and the flavor it is imparting. Enjoy the hobby. :tank:



Isn't that basically what we just said?:confused:
 
Id go with a different yeast. id suggest WLP090. Its very fast and clean. after trying out a few different strains, this is going to be my go to yeast for IPAs and Pale ales.
 
Grain -
I would nerf the brown and the mild malt, the others won't hurt. I would the crystal to 1lb and change to crystal 10 if you can get it.
47% 2-Row
47% Munich
6% Crystal 10L

Hops -
The hop additions aren't too bad, Pilot and Centennial work well for bittering. I would push the cascade and the challenger to <5 mins, and dry hop with cascade.

Yeast -
There are a lot of good choices for yeast for an IPA. I personally like WLP007, and Wyeast 1056, I am sure S-05 would work fine as well, and you can probably get away with your Belgium yeast selection and make a drinkable beer (You didn't really specify what IPA style you were going for).
 
Ok thank every one for the feed back I really appreciate it.


Jackofalltrades
 
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