My build thread

[--Jason--]

Hello HBT!

I have been lurking around for some time and decided I would document my build as well. I have learned a lot from checking out other builds on here and have borrowed several ideas from them. I am planning on going with a two vessel RIMs setup with BruControl. The enclosure I bought seems crazy large and I am still working on how I want to lay it out. Here are a few pictures of what I have so far.

 

[DavidD]

Looking good so far. Hope it all goes, well and I know it will be interesting to watch your progression. You'll inevitably learn a ton along the way.

Best of luck and brew on. Prost!

 

[BrunDog]

One thing to consider when laying out components is to try to separate high voltage AC and low voltage DC as much as possible.

 

[--Jason--]

Thought I would post some random pictures of some of the items I have been accumulating. I still am researching how I want to do the RIMs tube, but here is the false bottom and control console. I did find out that the yellow led is rated for 220v and not sure that will be a problem vs 240v.

 

[--Jason--]

Looking good so far. Hope it all goes, well and I know it will be interesting to watch your progression. You'll inevitably learn a ton along the way.

Best of luck and brew on. Prost!

Thanks for the prompt shipment of the false bottom, it arrived today and I took a picture of it in my kettle.

 

[--Jason--]

One thing to consider when laying out components is to try to separate high voltage AC and low voltage DC as much as possible.

Thanks for the advice. I am looking to install the higher voltage on the bottom rail and have the lower voltage items on the top. Hopefully that is enough separation to help reduce interference.

 

[BrunDog]

That is a great start. Try to avoid running the HV & LV wires next to each other. Twist the LV wires when you can.

 

[--Jason--]

That is a great start. Try to avoid running the HV & LV wires next to each other. Twist the LV wires when you can.

Any tips on the cheapest place to acquire wires?

 

[BrunDog]

Dunno. I get mine from Home Depot, McMaster-Carr, Digikey, or Amazon.

 

[--Jason--]

So I got the outlets in. I got them closer than I had planned, but it will work

 

[--Jason--]

I was able to get the rails and wiring conduit installed today. Getting closer.

 

[jcav]

Looking good! Lots of luck with the rest of the build!

John

 

[--Jason--]

Looking good! Lots of luck with the rest of the build!

John

Thanks! I have already learned a lot going on this journey. By the way, your build looks awesome!

 

[BrunDog]

Great start!

 

[--Jason--]

Great start!

Thanks! I still have a lot of things that I want to do, but your build definitely has been one that I have been watching! I am finding this is way more expensive than I thought it would be, but also more fun to build than I thought it would be as well.

 

[--Jason--]

I meant to post this last night as well. I tried hard to keep these straight, but they had a mind of their own!

 

[BrunDog]

Have a couple of home brews before looking at these... straightens them right up.

 

[--Jason--]

Have a couple of home brews before looking at these... straightens them right up.

Yeah it looks like I had a few when I drilled them

 

[Gameface]

I meant to post this last night as well. I tried hard to keep these straight, but they had a mind of their own!
View attachment 592256 View attachment 592257

Are those to connect to both valves and temp probes? Maybe other stuff, too?

 

[Gameface]

Hello HBT!

I have been lurking around for some time and decided I would document my build as well. I have learned a lot from checking out other builds on here and have borrowed several ideas from them. I am planning on going with a two vessel RIMs setup with BruControl. The enclosure I bought seems crazy large and I am still working on how I want to lay it out. Here are a few pictures of what I have so far.

View attachment 590424 View attachment 590425 View attachment 590426 View attachment 590427

What are the dimensions of the enclosure and do you mind saying where you got it.

I figure it's better to have extra space than not enough.

 

[jcav]

Thanks! I have already learned a lot going on this journey. By the way, your build looks awesome!

Thanks my friend! I love my rig. Every brew day I still get excited and feel like a kid a Christmas! This hobby is a blast! Keep the pics coming, I love seeing everyone do their builds.

John

 

[--Jason--]

Are those to connect to both valves and temp probes? Maybe other stuff, too?

Yeah, the plan is for these connections to be for the temp, pumps, valves and other sensors that I add later. I tried to add more than I thought I would need Incase of future expansion .

 

[--Jason--]

What are the dimensions of the enclosure and do you mind saying where you got it.

I figure it's better to have extra space than not enough.

The enclosure is 20x24 I think. It’s an rittal enclosure that I got from state electric online.

 

[--Jason--]

Thanks my friend! I love my rig. Every brew day I still get excited and feel like a kid a Christmas! This hobby is a blast! Keep the pics coming, I love seeing everyone do their builds.

John

Will do! I got my cartridge heater today and have been working on how to get that rigged up. I have also been trying to figure out if I should use weld less, welded or soldered bulkheads in my kegs. I’m leaning toward weld less for ease, but have been looking at soldered as well.

 

[augiedoggy]

I was able to get the rails and wiring conduit installed today. Getting closer.
View attachment 592174

Just a heads up on that relay board.. Hopefully you wont have the same trouble as I did with them. I have that same one as well as the 8 relay version and I kept getting spikes introduced even after adding rc snubbers and rearranging my wiring. I ended up replacing it with a sunfounder version of that board which has been problem free.. whatever noise insulation they use in the cheaper no name red ones seems to not work well. I made a lot of changes for the noise on my 3bbl panel so I swapped it back in at the end of doing everthing to be sure because I have two of them.. The problems definitely returned with that relay board.

 

[augiedoggy]

I meant to post this last night as well. I tried hard to keep these straight, but they had a mind of their own!
View attachment 592256 View attachment 592257

I tip I learned is to use a punch to make a small dimple for the tip of the drill bit to stay put. tape sometimes helps too.

 

[BrunDog]

Just a heads up on that relay board.. Hopefully you wont have the same trouble as I did with them. I have that same one as well as the 8 relay version and I kept getting spikes introduced even after adding rc snubbers and rearranging my wiring. I ended up replacing it with a sunfounder version of that board which has been problem free.. whatever noise insulation they use in the cheaper no name red ones seems to not work well. I made a lot of changes for the noise on my 3bbl panel so I swapped it back in at the end of doing everthing to be sure because I have two of them.. The problems definitely returned with that relay board.

Hmmm I wonder if that board is missing flyback diodes? Please post a link someone.

 

[augiedoggy]

Hmmm I wonder if that board is missing flyback diodes? Please post a link someone.

I am pretty sure the seller advertised noise isolation and I believe the diodes are there..

I believe this is the type I have..

 

[--Jason--]

I am pretty sure the seller advertised noise isolation and I believe the diodes are there..

I believe this is the type I have..

 

[augiedoggy]

hmm for some reason my link didnt go through..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-9V-12V-...5526a11a:m:mZ7ATjLZswo8RZ188lmMK_Q:rk:24:pf:0

 

[BrunDog]

That looks like it has diodes. Now, that said, it doesn't mean those diodes are worth a crap. They can be easily overwhelmed, and even blown without you ever knowing it.

 

[--Jason--]

How is everyone attaching their heatsinks to the enclosure? I have thought about screwing it through the heatsink into the enclosure, but curious is any is using a different method?

 

[Gameface]

How is everyone attaching their heatsinks to the enclosure? I have thought about screwing it through the heatsink into the enclosure, but curious is any is using a different method?

I'm not 100% sure what you're saying, but what I've seen is that there is a cutout in the enclosure that is smaller than the heatsink, but big enough to attach the SSRs. In the enclosure are screw holes that line-up with tapped holes in the heatsink. Does that make sense?

 

[--Jason--]

I'm not 100% sure what you're saying, but what I've seen is that there is a cutout in the enclosure that is smaller than the heatsink, but big enough to attach the SSRs. In the enclosure are screw holes that line-up with tapped holes in the heatsink. Does that make sense?

Yes, that’s what I had seen before, but was curious if anyone was using something like liquid nails.

 

[swimIan]

I have used epoxy to attach my heatsink to my hole in my control box. It seems to work okay to me.

 

[--Jason--]

I have used epoxy to attach my heatsink to my hole in my control box. It seems to work okay to me.

Thanks for the reply. Does your heatsink have a lot of weight on it?

 

[--Jason--]

I was able to do some of the high voltage wiring tonight. 10 awg from the terminal blocks to the circuit breakers and relays. I plan to use 6 awg from the main relay as I have seen diagrams of 6 awg going to the terminal block from the main relay, even though 10 awg seems more than enough.

 

[augiedoggy]

Is that the 60a dinkle terminal block or the 30 amp rated stuff? 6awg is technically what should be used from the main block up to the actual breakers or fuses but im not sure if its actual code or not. In fact I myself made the mistake of using 10g from the main terminals to the 25amp breakers for each element on my panel and was hoping to get clarification from a friend whos a GM electrician and he said he believes I should have to switch it out to meet code but it should be ok.. I thought I had read that short runs of unprotected (correctly fused) wire are ok inside of a control panel as long as the are feeding the fuse or breaker the protect the circuit they feed. any electricians care to chime in here?

I am confused why you seem to be using red wire for both poles? I believe that violates code as well (im sure your panels not being inspected but) trust me, your going to regret that later if anything goes wrong or you want to make changes. I did the same thing on my first panel build. It made working on it a nightmare especially after taking a break and getting back to it.

 

[--Jason--]

Is that the 60a dinkle terminal block or the 30 amp rated stuff? 6awg is technically what should be used from the main block up to the actual breakers or fuses but im not sure if its actual code or not. In fact I myself made the mistake of using 10g from the main terminals to the 25amp breakers for each element on my panel and was hoping to get clarification from a friend whos a GM electrician and he said he believes I should have to switch it out to meet code but it should be ok.. I thought I had read that short runs of unprotected (correctly fused) wire are ok inside of a control panel as long as the are feeding the fuse or breaker the protect the circuit they feed. any electricians care to chime in here?

I am confused why you seem to be using red wire for both poles? I believe that violates code as well (im sure your panels not being inspected but) trust me, your going to regret that later if anything goes wrong or you want to make changes. I did the same thing on my first panel build. It made working on it a nightmare especially after taking a break and getting back to it.

To be honest, I used red because I’m cheap lol! I added black electrical tape to the ends to separate it from the other. Also, if 10awg is rated for 30 amps, why do you need to use 6awg?

 

[--Jason--]

Is that the 60a dinkle terminal block or the 30 amp rated stuff? 6awg is technically what should be used from the main block up to the actual breakers or fuses but im not sure if its actual code or not. In fact I myself made the mistake of using 10g from the main terminals to the 25amp breakers for each element on my panel and was hoping to get clarification from a friend whos a GM electrician and he said he believes I should have to switch it out to meet code but it should be ok.. I thought I had read that short runs of unprotected (correctly fused) wire are ok inside of a control panel as long as the are feeding the fuse or breaker the protect the circuit they feed. any electricians care to chime in here?

I am confused why you seem to be using red wire for both poles? I believe that violates code as well (im sure your panels not being inspected but) trust me, your going to regret that later if anything goes wrong or you want to make changes. I did the same thing on my first panel build. It made working on it a nightmare especially after taking a break and getting back to it.

After thinking about your comments, I just bought 6awg din terminal blocks as the ones pictured above are 10awg. I’m also going to rewire it with 6awg red and black as I should have some left over from the 60amp spa panel install. Always good to learn from people with more experience .