Most effective finings for Chico/001?

[butterpants]

Quick inquiry.... I cold crashed a 5gal batch with a little geletin for a week and it's still cloudy. No other strain I use is so damm anti-flocculant. What is the most effective method (besides filtering) to brighten up this brew? It's currently kegged

 

[duboman]

Are you sure it's not chill haze? I use these strains frequently, no gelatin, a bit of Irish moss in the boil, cold crash for 3-5 days, crystal clear beer.

 

[butterpants]

Not chill haze still there at room temps, I even used Clarity Ferm. WF in the boil was used as well. In the split batch I did (half chico, half northwest)... you can read through the NW.... same treatments/recipe just diff pitch.

 

[theonetrueruss]

001 has always cleared fine for me... fermentation temps? perhaps one yeast finished and the chico still needed a little more time? Are they the same final gravity?

 

[butterpants]

1.010 after 20 days at 67F.

 

[zwiller]

Somethings off... I agree with duboman, with WF in the kettle and cold crashed a few days, it should be bright. With gelatine it should be BMC brilliant. Acidifying sparge?

 

[butterpants]

I added 1 tsp 10% phosphoric acid to my total water volume (strike n sparge).

Beer tastes spot on... no flaws

 

[pablosbrewing]

Quick inquiry.... I cold crashed a 5gal batch with a little geletin for a week and it's still cloudy. No other strain I use is so damm anti-flocculant. What is the most effective method (besides filtering) to brighten up this brew? It's currently kegged

For gelatin the method can matter. Bloom 1 tsp in a cup of cold water for 30 minutes, then microwave it just until clear (do not boil). It works best if that is added when the beer is already cold, but I have had luck hitting it in secondary ~60F for several days before bottling.

A lot of the craft breweries use Biofine, I have been planning to get some to try.

 

[butterpants]

For gelatin the method can matter. Bloom 1 tsp in a cup of cold water for 30 minutes, then microwave it just until clear (do not boil). It works best if that is added when the beer is already cold, but I have had luck hitting it in secondary ~60F for several days before bottling.

A lot of the craft breweries use Biofine, I have been planning to get some to try.

Yep that's how I employed the gelatin.

I'm sorry this wasn't mentioned before..... I dry hopped. 3oz for 5 days at the end of primary. That has to be the issue. Thoughts?

 

[zwiller]

Back when I used 10% acid I needed to use alot more than a teaspoon. I only got 8-10 brews from a bottle. My water is 90ppm alkalinity. Not trying to get water science heavy but if you are regularly dealing with clarity issues then I still suspect it is related to pH.

I might be in minority but I do not think heavy hop additions have a large affect on clarity. IPA I have on deck is 12oz hops, 4oz dry and it is clear but but not BMC/filtered bright.

 

[butterpants]

I use R/O water exclusively. The ph is generally in spec. This is the only clarity issue I've dealt with in a significant amout of time.

 

[zwiller]

Guess this gets labeled s*** happens. Hope it clears!

 

[butterpants]

Ha!

 

[jbaysurfer]

I believe very strongly that dryhopped beers frequently have a hop haze associated with it. It takes a long time to clear out IME.

 

[pablosbrewing]

A lot of the craft breweries use Biofine

Rising Tide in Portland, Maine dry hops a lot of their beers and this is all they use.

Crystal clear, and vegan if that is a concern to (gelatin is NOT in case anyone was wondering).

 

[butterpants]

I like dead animals so geletin is cool

 

[seanybubbles]

I find dry hopped beers take much longer to clear. They seem to usually not clear as well as beers that were not dry hopped IMO. I also find beers that had a good cold break clear quicker and clearer. I just use gelatin and am happy with the results. Good luck!


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