So I brewed this up and it was absolutely delicious. Only thing I was I had some seriously stuck sparge. Not sure if it was due to the flaked corn. Has anyone else experienced this?I'm gonna give this a go for my next batch. Temps warming up and need a good lawnmower beer.
Yes - I am planning another batch of this recipe, but will be adding rice hulls.I just did one with 25% flaked corn and no stuck sparge. I did, however, have 1.5lbs of rice hulls mixed in.
2 seperate yeasts in the same beer?. thinking of trying this as my go to is Dosxx lager if im going for all day drinking lolBatch #2 is on tap. Fermented 5 gallons with the Mexican yeast and 3 gallons with a dry Swiss yeast #189. The Swiss is maltier and a bit boring. The Mexican yeast is a killer. Won't last past next weekend!
This year (16 gallon batch):
13 lbs Pilsen (1.8 SRM) 43.3 %
10 lbs 8.0 oz Vienna Malt (3.0 SRM) 35.0 %
3 lbs Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM) 10.0 %
3 lbs Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) 10.0 %
7.0 oz Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) 1.5 %
1.0 oz Carafa Special II (415.0 SRM) 0.2 %
0.60 oz Northern Brewer [9.00 %] - Boil 90.0 min 7.3 IBUs
4.00 oz Crystal [3.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min 17.4 IBUs
0.80 oz Crystal [3.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min 0.9 IBUs
1.0 pkg Mexican Lager (White Labs #WLP940)
1.0 pkg SafLager Swiss Lager (Fermentis #S-189)
im confused..I'll try to give more detail guys. I have a RIMS system. It will differ from a step mash obviously. This is the mash & boil process:
1. Put water in HLT and start to heat upto 168F.
2. Put water in Mash Tun. Start circulating and set temp to 131F.
3. Crush grain except corn.
4. Stop MT pump. Throw in grain (and corn). I also throw in some rice hulls with every batch. Add water if needed to achieve a somewhat soupy mash.
5. Vorlauf. When done, start MT pump and maintain 131F for 15 min.
6. Ramp to 150F for 60 minutes.
7. Ramp to 160F for 15 minutes.
8. Ramp to 168F.
9. Sparge from HLT onto Boil Kettle. Add FWH to boil kettle.
10. Bring to boil. Boil for 30 minutes and add 60 minutes hops.
11. Boil for 45 minutes and add 15 minute hops.
12. Boil for 5 minutes and add yeast nutrient.
13. Boil 10 minutes, then chill wort.
14. Drain (rack) to primary.
Yeah. FWH (First Wort Hops) are added during sparge or while the wort is being brought to boil temperature. Kinda’ like steeping/whirlpool hops in reverse. It is believed that the process ‘softens’ the bitterness, whatever that means. The bittering charge hop oils get isomerized at different increasing temperatures as the wort rises from sparge to boil.im confused..
90 min boil? or first hops are before boil?
I might add that I do FWH probably 80% of the time, substituting FWH for the first bittering charge. BeerSmith has a calculation for FWH additions that compensates for both the additional time and different temperatures.Yeah. FWH (First Wort Hops) are added during sparge or while the wort is being brought to boil temperature. Kinda’ like steeping/whirlpool hops in reverse. It is believed that the process ‘softens’ the bitterness, whatever that means. The bittering charge hop oils get isomerized at different increasing temperatures as the wort rises from sparge to boil.
I do brew in a basket or bag. Do I just follow this still and when I start draining the basket. And start bringing to boil throw in hops? I never did a multiple temp mash I only have done a single temp for 60 min or 90 min. So this is new to meYeah. FWH (First Wort Hops) are added during sparge or while the wort is being brought to boil temperature. Kinda’ like steeping/whirlpool hops in reverse. It is believed that the process ‘softens’ the bitterness, whatever that means. The bittering charge hop oils get isomerized at different increasing temperatures as the wort rises from sparge to boil.
I do brew in a basket or bag. Do I just follow this still and when I start draining the basket. And start bringing to boil throw in hops? I never did a multiple temp mash I only have done a single temp for 60 min or 90 min. So this is new to me
I meant I never done a step mash like increasing the time. That part is new to me. Do I raise temp. And start the time as soon as it reaches the next step or do I include the rising temp time as the time in next step?No need to change your mashing process. When you ‘pull the bag’ and you’re letting it drain, just chuck the FWH into the kettle. When I used to BIAB, I would start applying the heat to the wort as soon as I pulled the grain bag out of the wort. This is when I’d toss in the FWH. Doing FWH is separate from the mashing as well as ‘mash hopping’.
I will just make assumptions that since RIMS is not a "step" it is a "ramp" from Temp A to Temp B and would imagine the way it was written that you could were not supposed to include the rising time to get from Temp A to Temp B. Especially if it takes more than 10-15 minutes. EDIT: I will say I am not an expert in this, but it does seem like the listed time for the beta rest seem excessive at 60 minutes, so maybe that is meant to be including the ramp?I meant I never done a step mash like increasing the time. That part is new to me. Do I raise temp. And start the time as soon as it reaches the next step or do I include the rising temp time as the time in next step?
I may make no sense right now
The beta and alpha enzymes are ‘active’ at those temperatures, though not necessarily at their peak levels of conversion. Above 160F alpha will begin to denature, and both beta and alpha will be pretty much gone at 168F.I will just make assumptions that since RIMS is not a "step" it is a "ramp" from Temp A to Temp B and would imagine the way it was written that you could were not supposed to include the rising time to get from Temp A to Temp B. Especially if it takes more than 10-15 minutes.
If your system only took 5 minutes to get from Temp A to Temp B - I would probably say it wouldn't make much of a difference either way, but considering our systems vary and larger "steps" might need more time - probably start the timer after it reaches the Temp B setting.
This is my guess (in italic)
Dough In: 131 F 15 min (grains in, set timer for 15 minutes)
Ramp to 150 F 60 min (ramp complete, set timer for 60 minutes)
Ramp to 160 F 15 min (ramp complete, set timer for 15 minutes)
Mash Out 168 F 10 min, (ramp complete, set timer for 10 minutes)
If anyone else has any comments regarding this that would be great. I am considering making this lager.
In the book by John Palmer "How To Brew" they show an American Style Lager with the mash schedule as follows:The beta and alpha enzymes are ‘active’ at those temperatures, though not necessarily at their peak levels of conversion. Above 160F alpha will begin to denature, and both beta and alpha will be pretty much gone at 168F.
Your step profile looks pretty good, but I like to perform beta rest @ 145~148F and alpha rest @ 154~158F. Each of those temperature ranges capture the optimum for enzymatic activity for each enzyme. In fact IIRC, beta is already active (barely) at 131F and doesn’t denature until 161F, though it’s not doing much conversion at either of those extremes.
Yeah, you’re probably good at :30 minutes rest at beta and alpha. As I mentioned, you’re already getting some beta conversion at 131F (really don’t need to start mash in any lower than that with today’s modern malts).In the book by John Palmer "How To Brew" they show an American Style Lager with the mash schedule as follows:
Dough In: 122F 20 min (grains in, set timer for 20 minutes)
Beta Rest: 145F 30 min (ramp complete, set timer for 30 minutes)
Alpha Rest: 158F 30 min (ramp complete, set timer for 30 minutes)
Mash Out: 170 F 10 min, (ramp complete, set timer for 10 minutes)
I presume the earlier numbers I mentioned from the OP might be excessive rest times contributing to a prolonged brew day. Do you think you need the extra time at each rest? I can't imagine you have much to gain after 30 minutes. If so, I would probably consider doing something similar myself to the one from John Palmer. I will be honest - I never really messed around with figuring out step mashing since most ales are cool with hitting somewhere between 152-154F Single infusion.
Thanks
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