Mash tun question

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yesjenks

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Hello,

So far I've only brewed recipe kits. I would like to try an all grain recipe, however, I don't want to invest a lot in the event that I don't enjoy all grain brewing. Mainly concerned about the added time.

That being said, I believe all I need (for a basic AG brew) is a mash tun. There are a few DIY options to convert a cooler I saw on this site. Is it worth going that route in the long run? Seems like I can find a false bottom "cooler to mash tun" option in a simple google search. Will the DIY option hold up (assuming I continue AG brewing)? Or, should I just spend the extra $ now for the false bottom option?

Input appreciated.
 
If you really just want to try out AG before going "all in", I would suggest looking into Brew In A Bag (BIAB). You can likely use your current kettle and get a large nylon bag to put the grains in. You use the kettle as the MLT and just remove the grains after the mash (you can batch sparge over the grains if necessary). Your efficiency might be a little low without the right setup, but it'll give you a good idea of if AG brewing is for you.

As for the cooler route, if you do 5-7 gallon batches then a 10 gallon cooler would work for your MLT. You'd also possibly need a HLT for sparging if you plan to fly sparge, but you can get by without one if you batch sparge. IMO, the false bottom for these coolers are well worth it at only ~$35. I believe my total cost for MLT was around $85 for the cooler, false bottom, and weldless bulkhead kit.
 
I have been using my DIY mash tun cooler for about 4 years- Close to 40 brews. Some wear so noticeable but I still figure it could last another 10 years unless I upgrade. I would definitely do your research before buying though, or you will want to upgrade / tweak your system constantly.

Personally I wish I had bought a nicer cooler the first time around.. I bought a cheap one and it doesn't quite keep temp like I would like.

I've also gone through one hosebraid which I had poorly designed and built.
 
If you really just want to try out AG before going "all in", I would suggest looking into Brew In A Bag (BIAB). You can likely use your current kettle and get a large nylon bag to put the grains in. You use the kettle as the MLT and just remove the grains after the mash (you can batch sparge over the grains if necessary). Your efficiency might be a little low without the right setup, but it'll give you a good idea of if AG brewing is for you.

As for the cooler route, if you do 5-7 gallon batches then a 10 gallon cooler would work for your MLT. You'd also possibly need a HLT for sparging if you plan to fly sparge, but you can get by without one if you batch sparge. IMO, the false bottom for these coolers are well worth it at only ~$35. I believe my total cost for MLT was around $85 for the cooler, false bottom, and weldless bulkhead kit.

Thanks for your quick response.

That's is a really good idea! Gonna try that this time around.

If you don't mind me asking, can you tell me what cooler and false bottom kit cooler conversion kit you bought?
 
I have been using my DIY mash tun cooler for about 4 years- Close to 40 brews. Some wear so noticeable but I still figure it could last another 10 years unless I upgrade. I would definitely do your research before buying though, or you will want to upgrade / tweak your system constantly.

Personally I wish I had bought a nicer cooler the first time around.. I bought a cheap one and it doesn't quite keep temp like I would like.

I've also gone through one hosebraid which I had poorly designed and built.

Thanks for the info! Yes, I will definitely do my cooler research before buying. I hate impulse buying and wanting to upgrade a few months later.
 
If you don't mind me asking, can you tell me what cooler and false bottom kit cooler conversion kit you bought?

Sure:

Igloo Cooler
False Bottom
Weldless Bulkhead

It looks like prices have gone up a little on some of this, but that's what I used. Feel free to browse around all of the many hardware sites and check prices. On the link above for the bulkhead, you have the option to add the other components (inside hose barb for connecting to the false bottom, ball valve for the outside, hose barb for the ball valve).
 
Honestly, I've never met anyone that went back from AG to extract but who knows. Yes, it's a lot more work, potentially more headaches and mistakes and much more time consuming but it's also much more rewarding and fun. Anyways, back to your question....you can have a relatively low cost investment for a MLT. I bought a 10g igloo (yellow one), ball valve setup and made a copper manifold from pieces from HDepot. I find the manifold works much better than a false bottom or steel braid (I've tried them all). You can also buy a rectangular cooler which may be cheaper and make a manifold from CPVC or copper. You can also use your kettle to boil your mash/sparge water and drain your wort into a bucket or something first. That would be the minimum that you can go. If you want to spend a little more to make life easier, there's always a pump, separate HLT, 2nd valve on MLT to recirculate, 2nd burner for your HLT...and the list goes on.
 
Sure:

Igloo Cooler
False Bottom
Weldless Bulkhead

It looks like prices have gone up a little on some of this, but that's what I used. Feel free to browse around all of the many hardware sites and check prices. On the link above for the bulkhead, you have the option to add the other components (inside barb for connecting to the false bottom, ball valve for the outside, etc). You'll also need a hose barb for the ball valve as well.

Thank you!! Will do. Definitely gonna BIAB this time around.

Thanks again for the advice!
 
BTW, I've upgraded my kettles 3 times in 3 years and am still using my original 10g igloo.
 
Honestly, I've never met anyone that went back from AG to extract but who knows. Yes, it's a lot more work, potentially more headaches and mistakes and much more time consuming but it's also much more rewarding and fun. Anyways, back to your question....you can have a relatively low cost investment for a MLT. I bought a 10g igloo (yellow one), ball valve setup and made a copper manifold from pieces from HDepot. I find the manifold works much better than a false bottom or steel braid (I've tried them all). You can also buy a rectangular cooler which may be cheaper and make a manifold from CPVC or copper. You can also use your kettle to boil your mash/sparge water and drain your wort into a bucket or something first. That would be the minimum that you can go. If you want to spend a little more to make life easier, there's always a pump, separate HLT, 2nd valve on MLT to recirculate, 2nd burner for your HLT...and the list goes on.

Wow, that's a lot of options to consider. Thanks for your input. Definitely have to think about the options before investing.
 
Yes, the 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler is definitely worth the investment. I have around 60 brews in mine and it is still holding up.

BAIB would be the way to go to see if you like all grain though, just buy a bag and you are set.

I went to all grain after 4 extract kits. I like the versatility that it offers. Yes it does add to your brew day, but in the end I can tweek it if need be.

I started with just a cooler and a pot for all grain and once I decided I liked it I kept adding on. Eventually I built a single tier stand and that is what I am using now with a pump. While the grains are mashing in I am usually off doing something else. I tend to multi-task while making all grain. Seems to make the time go by faster!
 
used cooler $10 bulk head and valve $25 and a PVC manifold(instead of mesh tube) $3 total of $38 invested and if you don't like AG brewing sell it on CL for 30 bucks and you wasted a few bucks!
 
Before I ever brewed my first batch, I saw an old beat up 60 quart cooler at a thrift store. $3 for that and some cpvc to make a manifold and I was all in. You can just hook up some tubing to the manifold outlet and you don't even need to buy a ball valve, just ensure the tubing outlet is higher than the mash level UNTIL you wish to sparge (I batch). I've since put a ball valve in, but that cooler holds temp just fine.
 
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