March Pump & Silicone Tubing ID

[funkswing]

I plan on getting a March pump in the near future and had a question about the silicone tube ID size.

Why does everyone use 1/2" ID tubing? Could 3/8" ID tubing work as well? Either way I'd use the 1/8" walled stuff.

I realize that the larger ID equals more flow, but I was just wondering if anyone had thoughts on this.

funk

 

[Hammy71]

The inlet and outlet on the pump is 1/2". So, most just keep the same size through out.

 

[o4_srt]

The inlet and outlet on the pump is 1/2". So, most just keep the same size through out.

Agreed. I plumbed my stand with 1/2" copper pipe. I don't know why more people don't use it in their builds. It's not terribly expensive, and it's super easy to solder it together. Plus, I think it looks better than silicon hose.

 

[jeepinjeepin]

I'm gonna necro this one instead of starting anew. I seem to get an air leak on the suction side of my march pump. It's 1/2" silicone on a 1/2" stainless nipple. I'm sure a smaller tubing would clear that up. How much would it affect flow. Would it make it prime better or worse?

As for copper on the stand. I assume it needs to be routed in such a way that it can be fully drained after use. Does it need to be cleaned before each use or does it stay clean between uses?

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm gonna necro this one instead of starting anew. I seem to get an air leak on the suction side of my march pump. It's 1/2" silicone on a 1/2" stainless nipple. I'm sure a smaller tubing would clear that up. How much would it affect flow. Would it make it prime better or worse?

As for copper on the stand. I assume it needs to be routed in such a way that it can be fully drained after use. Does it need to be cleaned before each use or does it stay clean between uses?

Put a ball valve on the outlet side of the pump and have it running 1/2 open when you have heat applied to the kettle. Once the wort is no longer boiling, you can open the valve up more. I do this for my system to the plate chiller. Once the flame is off, and it's chilled below 200F (I recirculate back into the keggle) I can open the valve on the pump to full without issue.

I don't have a stand, yet, so trying to use hard copper lines isn't going to happen.

BTW, do you have the pump properly orientated? It needs to have the outlet side pointing up. You also need to let it prime via gravity, or you'll have other issues.

 

[jeepinjeepin]

I also am without a stand. My pump isn't even solid mounted. I have only used it for one brew session with it sitting on its mounting plate. I think that puts inlet and output both horizontal. It is below kettle level. I need to mount it like you describe and try again. I was using an output valve but is was on the other end of the output hose and not on the pump itself.

 

[Golddiggie]

I have mine in a toolbox (with the head sticking through the side). You can just use something to get it up off the ground, so that you can orientate it properly. You NEED to have the outlet pointing up. I would also put a valve on the outlet side if you're going to run wort, that's boiling, through it. Such as to sanitize your chiller. I've also gotten one of the [stainless steel] pump heads that has the center inlet. Makes it easier to use the pump, but I still don't have it on the ground.