Late addition extract
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WoodlandBrew
Well-Known Member
Late extract additions will keep the color a little lighter. You'll want to turn off the heat when it is added and stir it in before turning the heat back on. This will minimize scorching and also reduce the chance of a boil over.
timrox1212
Well-Known Member
For anything lighter then a brown I add the extract at about 5 mins left. I've found it dosent drastically effect color but it does effect the taste.
I do late extract additions at flame out. The wort is still boiling hot when you add the extract,& pasteurization happening at 160F,it'll be fine. If you're using LME,the color will be a lot lighter than if you'd added it all at the begining of the boil. Not so much with DME,as it doesn't darken as readilly as LME does. That's why I use DME in the boil for AE or E/SG beers. Lighter color,& no "extract twang".
Brewed this recipe over the weekend...
Ruination IPA clone
(Stone Brewing Company)
(5 gallons/19 L)
OG = 1.075 FG = 1.010
IBU = 100+ SRM = 6 ABV = 7.7%
Stone Brewing - Ruination IPA
(5 gallons/19 L) OG = 1.075 FG = 1.010 IBU = 100+ SRM = 6 ABV = 7.9–8.5%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) Northwestern gold (light)
malt extract syrup
2.0 lbs. (0.9 kg) Northwestern
gold (light) dry malt extract
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess 2-row malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess crystal malt (15 ºL)
1 tsp. Irish moss (60 minutes)
36.0 AAU Magnum hops (bittering hop)
(2.25 oz./64 g of 16.0% alpha acids)
15.7 AAU Centennial hops
(aroma/finishing hop)
(1.5 oz./43 g of 10.5% alpha acid)
21.0 AAU Centennial hops
(2.0 oz./56 g of 10.5% alpha acid)
White Labs WLP001 (California Ale) yeast or Wyeast 1056 (American Ale)yeast
0.75 cup of corn sugar (for priming)
Step-by-step
Steep the 2 crushed grains in 3 gallons (11.4 L) of water at 149 ºF (65 ºC) for 30 minutes. Remove grains from wort, add Magnum hops, malt syrup and bring to a boil. Add Irish moss and boil for 60 minutes. Add the first addition of Centennial hops at the end of the boil, and let steep for 5 minutes. Add wort to 2 gallons (7.6 L) cool water in a sanitary fermenter, and top off with cool water to 5.5 gallons (20.9 L). Cool the wort to 75 ºF (24 ºC), aerate the beer and pitch yeast. Allow the beer to cool over the next few hours to 68 ºF
(20 ºC) and hold at this temperature until the yeast has finished fermentation. Add last addition of Centennial hops for dry hopping. Dry hop for 3 to 5 days, then bottle your beer, carbonate and enjoy!
I am relatively new to this (on my 4th beer and all have turned out great). The recipe calls for adding the malt syrup and does not mention DME at all. When I boiled, I added both the LME and DME at the beginning of the boil. From what I can tell in reading the posts, this will affect the color perhaps, but what else might it affect in the resulting brew? Should I anticipate any problems? Thanks a lot.
Ruination IPA clone
(Stone Brewing Company)
(5 gallons/19 L)
OG = 1.075 FG = 1.010
IBU = 100+ SRM = 6 ABV = 7.7%
Stone Brewing - Ruination IPA
(5 gallons/19 L) OG = 1.075 FG = 1.010 IBU = 100+ SRM = 6 ABV = 7.9–8.5%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) Northwestern gold (light)
malt extract syrup
2.0 lbs. (0.9 kg) Northwestern
gold (light) dry malt extract
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess 2-row malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess crystal malt (15 ºL)
1 tsp. Irish moss (60 minutes)
36.0 AAU Magnum hops (bittering hop)
(2.25 oz./64 g of 16.0% alpha acids)
15.7 AAU Centennial hops
(aroma/finishing hop)
(1.5 oz./43 g of 10.5% alpha acid)
21.0 AAU Centennial hops
(2.0 oz./56 g of 10.5% alpha acid)
White Labs WLP001 (California Ale) yeast or Wyeast 1056 (American Ale)yeast
0.75 cup of corn sugar (for priming)
Step-by-step
Steep the 2 crushed grains in 3 gallons (11.4 L) of water at 149 ºF (65 ºC) for 30 minutes. Remove grains from wort, add Magnum hops, malt syrup and bring to a boil. Add Irish moss and boil for 60 minutes. Add the first addition of Centennial hops at the end of the boil, and let steep for 5 minutes. Add wort to 2 gallons (7.6 L) cool water in a sanitary fermenter, and top off with cool water to 5.5 gallons (20.9 L). Cool the wort to 75 ºF (24 ºC), aerate the beer and pitch yeast. Allow the beer to cool over the next few hours to 68 ºF
(20 ºC) and hold at this temperature until the yeast has finished fermentation. Add last addition of Centennial hops for dry hopping. Dry hop for 3 to 5 days, then bottle your beer, carbonate and enjoy!
I am relatively new to this (on my 4th beer and all have turned out great). The recipe calls for adding the malt syrup and does not mention DME at all. When I boiled, I added both the LME and DME at the beginning of the boil. From what I can tell in reading the posts, this will affect the color perhaps, but what else might it affect in the resulting brew? Should I anticipate any problems? Thanks a lot.
The LME can darken from boiling a 2nd time for the entire hour. DME not so much. The mailard reactions (browning) of the LME cause darkening as well as that "extract twang",or cooked extract flavor. Hence late additions,particularly with LME.
Bob
Well-Known Member
Late additions are only really useful with a boil volume lesser than the final brew length. For example, if you're boiling 3 gallons but want 5 in the tank, a late addition is very useful indeed, for several reasons:
1. As noted, it reduces Maillard reactions which impact color darkening and the formation of unwanted flavor precursors.
2. Concentrated boils - where you put all of the malt extract in at once - reduce hops isomerization, which means you need to use more hops than is strictly necessary. With late addition, you have more control over the boil gravity, which lets you calculate hops requirements more accurately.
3. It can be a boon way to get you into partial mashing. You can use BIAB techniques to brew the boil wort, then add extract to bump you to your desired OG for your full brew length. I do this All. The. Time. - a 3 gallon all-grain brew, then some DME at flameout to bring me to my full OG. Since I lack the equipment volume to brew 5 gallons of all-grain wort at once, late additions really help.
Cheers,
Bob
1. As noted, it reduces Maillard reactions which impact color darkening and the formation of unwanted flavor precursors.
2. Concentrated boils - where you put all of the malt extract in at once - reduce hops isomerization, which means you need to use more hops than is strictly necessary. With late addition, you have more control over the boil gravity, which lets you calculate hops requirements more accurately.
3. It can be a boon way to get you into partial mashing. You can use BIAB techniques to brew the boil wort, then add extract to bump you to your desired OG for your full brew length. I do this All. The. Time. - a 3 gallon all-grain brew, then some DME at flameout to bring me to my full OG. Since I lack the equipment volume to brew 5 gallons of all-grain wort at once, late additions really help.
Cheers,
Bob
Yeah,same here. PB/PM BIAB in the same 5 gallon SS stock pot I started with. Still on the stove,but with better aftermarket burners. I've never had the capacity to do full boils. But I wouldn't think the extra water volume would prevent mailard reactions that are responsible for browning or darkening of the wort. Much less extract twang. But never having done it,I can't say with any certainty...
I've been preachin that one for quite some time,but could never understand how/why a full boil would change the darkening aspect. I for one didn't think it could?...
I think the increase in malliard reaction is really only present in a 3 gallon boil with 5 gallon grain bill. It's concentrated. It's the same as making candy and boiling it at hard crack longer makes it turn amber, is it not?
I still do extracts for ease and time and I make a lighter shcwill beer for deer camp and for a relative and adding LME late makes a difference for sure. I do it at ten minutes though. But, I went to 4# dme (I think, I can't check now) and 3.3# lme. I add it late, and it turns out light enough for the guys there who drink nothing but light beer and liquor. It's funny, to the person who isn't a craft beer drinker I've found color makes a world of difference, albeit psychological.
I think it's been pretty well documented, even if anecdotally, that LME will darken over the course of an hour boil.
I still do extracts for ease and time and I make a lighter shcwill beer for deer camp and for a relative and adding LME late makes a difference for sure. I do it at ten minutes though. But, I went to 4# dme (I think, I can't check now) and 3.3# lme. I add it late, and it turns out light enough for the guys there who drink nothing but light beer and liquor. It's funny, to the person who isn't a craft beer drinker I've found color makes a world of difference, albeit psychological.
I think it's been pretty well documented, even if anecdotally, that LME will darken over the course of an hour boil.
You don't have to do a 3G boil to get a mailard reaction. It's not that it's too concentrated,even though that is part of it. It's just that by using less LME at the start,it lessens the reaction amount,so it's less noticeable. If at all. I've gotten it with boils half that size. So it's been better in my experience,to use 1.5-2 pounds plain DME in a 2.5-3.5 gallon boil in a 5 gallon kettle. Saving the remaining DME & all the LME for flame out. With the wort still boiling hot,& pasteurization happening in seconds at 160F,you're safe. You don't have to boil the snot out of a late addition to make it safe.
You're missing something. It seems to be how it starts out that counts. LME starts out containing 20% water compared to DME starting out as a hydroscopic powder. And it's not that it only occures with LME,it's just that it's a whole lot easier & quicker for LME to go through mailard reactions compared to the much slower rate with DME.
Perhaps if you don't use it correctly, but I don't see how it would make a difference if you take your wort off the burner, add DME/LME, mix it in to create a homogeneous solution, then put it back on the burner.
I would think that DME would cause a maillard reaction faster because LME will drop the temperature of the wort more.
I would think that DME would cause a maillard reaction faster because LME will drop the temperature of the wort more.
Not in my experiences. It's the nature of LME,being a malty,caramelly syrup that I think is the root of the problem. Ime,DME just doesn't darken like LME over the course of the boil. But I also don't put it all in at the begining,either. A lighter wort gives better hop utilization where partial boils are concerned.
