Knockout Punch For Element?

[cbzdel]

Searching Google I came arross this cheap knock out punch. I am all for a quality tools that last a long time, but to this point in my life I have never need a 1.25 hole saw, step bit or knockout punch, and I do not feel like investing in a quality tool that does not get use.

That being said when searching I found this CHEAP punch:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/28512100/

A much better price than $90 for the real deal.

It is a 1.25" punch which is the size for a element. I will be punching though the side of one keg so I dont care if I get one punch and its time to throw it away, I just am a bit worried I will get one clean hole out of it.

What do you guys think?

 

[Copbrew133]

Dude for 13 bucks, go for it. The one inch punch I used from Lowes was on their clearance table and was still twenty bucks...and it didn't come with a tubing cutter. I doubt it's of the highest quality, but you're only using it once.

 

[Strecker25]

id love to hear your results with this if you get it. Im with you on good tools, but i honestly will never punch a 1.25" hole in anything other than my 2 kettles. I just cant stomach the price of the greenlees, so ive been shopping around as well. Most people will argue $80 on a $4k brewery isn't significant, but its still $80 to me

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

With the greenlees you can get lucky on ebay every once in a while, I don't think I spent more than $30 each for the ones I have.

 

[processhead]

I have bought tools for one-of jobs and turned around and resold them on ebay or c-list when the job was done.

It's one way to keep your costs under control.

 

[waffle418]

Has anyone ever used the 1" conduit punch for the hole?? Its 3/32" larger and I'm wondering if thats an issue. I have the conduit set not the chasis set (borrowing them for $0 so I'm not interested in buying a new set.)

 

[russki]

I have used and can recommend the knockout punch set from Harbor Freight - the 1/2" is perfect for valves/sight glasses and control panel buttons and switches, and the 1-1/4" one works just fine for the elements (it's a little big, but no issues with mounting or leaking). There are always coupons for HF to get 15-25% off.

The IKEA punch is the same as the HF one, it's not actually 1.25", it's 1-1/4" conduit size, meaning 1-3/8" actual size. To me, HF was a better deal, since you get all the sizes for just a couple more $$.

 

[bemerritt]

Has anyone ever used the 1" conduit punch for the hole?? Its 3/32" larger and I'm wondering if thats an issue. I have the conduit set not the chasis set (borrowing them for $0 so I'm not interested in buying a new set.)

It took a little while to get my elements leak free, but it does the trick.

 

[Indian_villager]

Are you cutting into stainless or aluminum?

 

[waffle418]

It took a little while to get my elements leak free, but it does the trick.

Thanks, I have a spare piece of steel, I'll test it out and make sure itll work.

 

[cbzdel]

in this case which would be better, 1.25" step drill bit or a kockout punch thats 3/32" over sized?

 

[srice]

Before you get too far, you may want to think about punching a little bigger (the 1-3/8" would probably work.) Bobby has a relatively new hardware kit which allows you to solder a triclover to the kettle and use this for a removable element. This simplifies the electrical box connections, be less leak prone and improve cleanability. Take a look here:
http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

I've got a 1-1/4" hole in my keggle, and will try to get this work once when I get a free weekend to play with it.

 

[cbzdel]

If I only knew sooner, I already bought everything my setup to copy Kal system so at this point I can not return some of the stuff so I will just keep pushing forward.. I can always upgrade at a later date as well.. Right now I just want to get up and running.

 

[processhead]

Before you get too far, you may want to think about punching a little bigger (the 1-3/8" would probably work.) Bobby has a relatively new hardware kit which allows you to solder a triclover to the kettle and use this for a removable element. This simplifies the electrical box connections, be less leak prone and improve cleanability. Take a look here:
http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

I've got a 1-1/4" hole in my keggle, and will try to get this work once when I get a free weekend to play with it.

I just installed one of Bobby's solder-on kits on a keggle.
A 1 3/8" dia knockout punch works perfect for this fitting, and leaves zero material overlap over the fitting opening.

I put together an improvised clamp to hold it in place while soldering.

Took me a couple of attempts to get a leak-tight joint. But not too bad.

 

[weisj]

I took a chance and ordered the Ikea set. I also have the Harbor Freight set. The Ikea punch was delivered today. As predicted by some of the other posts, it is oversized. The inside of the cup measures 1.395". The Harbor Freight punch measured 1.360", which is a little closer. The Ikea punch appears to be better machined and smoother than the HF punch though.

Too bad - I was hoping for a cheap alternative to the Greenlee. Now I need to decide if I want to try one of the oversize punches, go with a step bit, or spring for a Greenlee...

 

[processhead]

I took a chance and ordered the Ikea set. I also have the Harbor Freight set. The Ikea punch was delivered today. As predicted by some of the other posts, it is oversized. The inside of the cup measures 1.395". The Harbor Freight punch measured 1.360", which is a little closer. The Ikea punch appears to be better machined and smoother than the HF punch though.

Too bad - I was hoping for a cheap alternative to the Greenlee. Now I need to decide if I want to try one of the oversize punches, go with a step bit, or spring for a Greenlee...

In case you don't have the solder fitting yet to compare with the punch, I think you will be happy with the Ikea. You will be within .020 inch of the id of the fitting and it should give you a nearly flush joint. Once it is soldered on, you will have a good fit.

 

[TNugent]

I just got a 1", 1.5" and 2" Greenlee off Ebay for just under $50 total. I will be returning the 1.5" I got off Amazon for $80+ as soon as I confirm these are not conduit punches(based on the part numbers they shouldn't be). Now I can use a punch for both the weld-in element kit from Bobby as well as the bulkheads which should work perfectly with the 1" punch.

Moral of the story, keep an eye on Ebay, I found my deal the same day I started looking.

 

[ryanhope]

... as soon as I confirm these are not conduit punches(based on the part numbers they shouldn't be).

What are the correct part numbers?

 

[hio3791]

I am at the same point as the OP. I already bought the stuff to build a Kal type of element enclosure. Has anyone successfully used a step bit to get to 1 1/4 inch hole and be leak free?

 

[beinert]

I am at the same point as the OP. I already bought the stuff to build a Kal type of element enclosure. Has anyone successfully used a step bit to get to 1 1/4 inch hole and be leak free?

Yes, used a HF step bit to drill the 1.25" hole in my HLT and had no problem getting a good seal, but if I were to do it again, I would use a punch. You must be careful not to let the bit catch and bind up when you get to the largest steps. If it does, the kettle side will deform and you may not be able to get a good seal.

 

[TNugent]

What are the correct part numbers?

There is a 2" set numbers 5004232 & 5035161 (50.8mm), an 1-1/2" set numbers 5007044 & 5004736 (38.1mm), & a 1" set numbers 5035164 & 03986 (25.4mm).