Kenmore 14.8 cu ft Keezer Build - Model 16542

[chucho311]

First Time Post here. I am considered a Newby, but have some experience.
My 1961 AMANA Keezer has died. It was my First only Keezer I built in 2005. I still have it as I am going to strip some of the parts from it and I will have a picture up of it soon. It was extremely Ugly, yet cool in itself and there was a technique I did to mount the dual towers to the lid that I have not seen on any forum at all so I will post that later. To put this a better way, the beer is not flowing at my house so I told my wife that the Keezer is now a new priority for both her an my sanity. (It actually worked). :rockin:

In the meantime, I have a Kenmore 14.8 cu ft Freezer - Model 16542 that I found on Craigslist for $150. Brand new and barely used so I scored there. I am going to provide Freezer information to the ongoing thread here and hopefully add another to the list:https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/chest-freezer-specs-layouts-377518/

I will be documenting my build throughout the process. I will be making a 10" Collar which, based on other similar Keezer builds, can hold about 6 1/6 barrels. Sorry guys, I do not brew my own beer....yet.

I usually search...and search.... and search to find my answers but if I come up short, then I will ask.

CO2 Questions
1) Since I am adding 6 tappers to the Collar, can anyone recommend a CO2 Manifold? I do not want a cheap DIY but something of good quality and I am willing to pay for quality. Jester had one with gauges for a 7 tap system but I can not find it anywhere. Something similar or recommended for a 6 tap system would be great!
I am used to having two towers and having 2 full size kegs in my old set up. I am not used to manifolds so any information is greatly appreciated.
2) Point/link me to a decent 6 way manifold that others have used in setups. I see a lot of DIY projects, but nothing linking me to where to get one.
3) Link me to proper gauges for the manifold
4) What the heck is a check valve and where do I get one? Link?
5) I see some people have gauges on every manifold outlet some people just have 1 gauge. Any help here would be great.


I have my Bill Of materials for the Collar and the Dolly and I will post this process when the time comes. I need some help with my questions above to start ordering the parts.

Thank you!!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Welcome!

Broad range of requests ya' got there!

Why don't ya' get busy perusing the sponsor / vendors on this site, as most members on the site use them, and if they was peddlin' junk, they would damned sure hear about it, and so would the "Gatekeeper" of this board.

To answer one of your questions: Most CO2 manifolds have check valves installed, to keep the beer in your keg from flowing back to your regulator, should there be a pressure drop "upstream", where your keg has more pressure than your tank.

You need secondary "regulators", if you wish to carbonate numerous beers to different volumes @ the same time.

That's where you are seeing all the gauges, and they should be checked for a check valve as well, if they are not feeding a manifold so equipped.

Shop around, and ask before you buy if they are so equipped.

Get busy reading, and that will help with some of your questions, before you start ordering parts!

 

[jbaysurfer]

1) Since I am adding 6 tappers to the Collar, can anyone recommend a CO2 Manifold? I do not want a cheap DIY but something of good quality and I am willing to pay for quality. Jester had one with gauges for a 7 tap system but I can not find it anywhere. Something similar or recommended for a 6 tap system would be great!
I am used to having two towers and having 2 full size kegs in my old set up. I am not used to manifolds so any information is greatly appreciated.

I'm going to give you some answers that = what I would do. There are many possible answers to your questions, some of mine will be oversimplified on purpose.

I would get a 2 product regulator and 2- 4 port manifolds or 1- 4 port and 1- 2 port manifold. This will allow you to serve your lighter beers with more carbonation and your stouts/thicker beers with less.

2) Point/link me to a decent 6 way manifold that others have used in setups. I see a lot of DIY projects, but nothing linking me to where to get one.

Google is your friend. To be blunt I'm giving you my time in answers, you invest some of yours googling so I don't have too. First one is on me. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=6+way+CO2+manifold however, I recommend you look for a 4 way, and a 2 way manifold so you can do what I said above.

3) Link me to proper gauges for the manifold

Gauges come on your CO2 regulator. A manifold is what I linked above.

4) What the heck is a check valve and where do I get one? Link?

They generally come pre-installed on manifolds. You don't generally have to buy them separately.

5) I see some people have gauges on every manifold outlet some people just have 1 gauge. Any help here would be great.

You can either dial in each individual keg with it's own custom level of carbonation, put all 6 kegs on the same level of carbonation, or something in between. My answer to #1 is something in between. This is what I'm suggesting. A "dual gauge" CO2 regulator is not the same thing. This allows two different kegs or banks of kegs to be at independent pressures. Again, you have used the word "manifold" here when you mean "regulator". The regulator adjusts the pressure going into the gas line. The manifold splits that gas feed into multiple lines for multiple kegs.

 

[chucho311]

Thank you for the help Stealth cruiser and jbaysurfer. I am glad I asked the question because I was unaware of using different CO2 amount for light and dark beers. I am glad you told me that and yes, your set up would make more sense. I think I will go with the 2 Port Regulator and 2-4 port manifold. I would like to have light and dark beers simultaneously. I was also unaware I was talking about two different things when mentioning Manifold and regulator. I tried searching for CO2 connections 101 but failed in my searches, even in Google. Maybe if I get a clear understanding of everything when I start, Learn, and then could provide some insight for others in one thread, instead of gathering "tid bits" here and there from various threads.

So thank you for clearing this up for me.

To be clear, I am by no means proud of the Craftsmanship of the old Keezer below but take the steel plate idea into consideration for tower support.. As promised above, I had a very ugly Keezer I built from a 1961 AMANA a while back but recently died. I mounted the tower tappers on the top of the lid and the bottom of the lid with some steel plates for support. I used Galvanized Hex Head Bolts to screw the plates and the tappers to the plates. I also placed a rubber gasket seal underneath each outside perimeter of the plate (For spills etc.) All in All, you could actually wheel the whole thing around by the tower it was on the there so tight and strong. I just thought I'd mention that because I have not seen anyone do that yet.

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I was proud it was my first but I always swore I would build a prettier one when this one died so the time has come.

Here is the new Freezer for the build. I will post more pics as I go along. I am about 100% confident I will have questions along the way.

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Let the fun begin.

 

[RocketBrewer]

I have the same freezer, bought mine new. I found that a 2X4 collar was plenty (just need room to put the shanks and gas through). I have three regulator secondary regulator with one feeding a 4 way manifold for standard serving pressure. The other two can be used to carb or set for lower/higher serving pressures. I insulated the inside of the collar with foam insulation board from HD. I covered that with PVC carefully cut from a piece of 2X6 PVC fence rail and siliconed in place. I think it turned out pretty nice and gives a finished look that is easy to clean. I control it with an external stc-1000 controller with the TC in a water bottle to keep it from cycling on/off too frequently. I used silicone to attach a computer fan in the corner to help keep the temperature from stratifying. I also use two eva-dry units to keep the condensation down (that way I still have one inside while the other is drying out). It is built on a rolling base with 1X6 painted skirting to hide the base. A towel bar mounted on the end that doubles as a handle to pull it by. I like to get 1/2 barrel kegs from local breweries and this allows me to be able to roll it under my chain hoist to lift and lower the kegs. I used two painted wood bookshelf brackets attached with silicone for the drip tray. A couple strips of velcro keeps it in place. Velcro also holds the cap catcher in place. I still need to make a quick disconnect for my CO2 line to make it easier to move. I plan to use an adapter to attach a ball-lock connection on the outside (an idea I stole from someone here on HBT).

Things I would recommend if you can afford...

Use all stainless shanks and taps if you can (they are worth it)
Use 1/4" MFL connections on all hoses (gas and beer) if you can (sooo much easier to clean or change hoses when needed).

Good luck with the build!

 

[chucho311]

Well guys. I am about 80% complete. I need to insulate the collar, add a handle to lift the collar up, add a drip tray (hopefully I can find one big enough (taps are 4.5" spacing from center to center), and add the bottle cap catcher. I want to add fans too so that will come soon. I made it a dual hinge Keezer so the collar is on the stock hinges and the top white lid is in standard door hinges. 6 perlick 630ss's. (I bought these but then realized people were buying the 650's so not sure the differences). I will post a more detailed description soon. We're hosting Thanksgiving and with 2 kids, it gets very busy.

I also wanted to let everyone know that if they are using Weather Stripping between the Keezer top and the Collar Bottom, to COMPENSATE for this thickness when adding the Hinges back on to the Collar. I failed to do this and I now am in a predicament. I read (and have tested this with door hinges) to remove the hinge, dip toothpicks into some wood glue, jam them into the old holes, snap them off and let them dry. Then reattach the hinge to the new location that you want (in this instance it will be about 1/4" away from the old holes). I read this from a woodworker online in the past and this has worked for me with Interior doors with stripped holes. I may try this and post the outcome later.

 

[chucho311]

Some more pics during the build.

This was a dry fit before taking everything apart to sand, stain, and coat with polyurethane.

 

[chucho311]

First Off, I uploaded pictures to the attachments above and they show up on my Home brew Iphone App, my Web browser for the computer, but do NOT show up on the Iphone Safari browser so I am not 100% sure if everyone can see them or not., Can some confirm this for me?

OK. I want to send an update on the Evadry 500. When I first turned the Keezer on, I noticed water droplet buildup on the inside walls. I purchased the Eva-dry 500 and set it inside the Keezer. I had the Keezer closed for a few days and went back to check and noticed a significant improvement on the inside of the walls. Keep in mind I have not sealed any corners or Collar joints yet with silicone so that is my next task.

I am also concerned about my 2 year old walking up to it a flipping the taps on and having beer all over the floor. We keep the door closed to this room but where there is a will , there's a way. I found some Tap Faucet locks that utilize a key I am going to try out and will post a review.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I see the tap lock.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I now see your kegerator build pics, dated 11-24-14.

 

[RocketBrewer]

I see them all. Looks great! If nothing else, you can put shut off valves on the beer lines inside the cooler to prevent accidental dumping of your beer. When my kids were teenagers I did this with a pad lock on the door to keep them out of trouble (and my beer!).

 

[chucho311]

So I am utilizing this clever idea. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/keezer-build-tips-lessons-learned-301204/ by dahappycamper.

Here is my build of the air flow system. I used my Mitre saw that already had a Trim blade on it and man, it cut through the PVC really well and I did not experience any melting of any kind. It was like cutting through wood. It worked fantastic and saved a lot of time!!! Instead of using a 3" to 2" PVC reducer, and caulking all around the Gap where the bilge fan is placed, I took a 3" to 2" rubber fitting (as seen in the image in Black) and it tightened perfectly to the bilge fan and the 2" PVC. I wasn't sure how many, far apart, and size of holes to drill but i used a 5/16" drill bit and spaced them randomly. I am next going to purchase the fan speed controller and wire it in so I can fine tune it in the humid days. I do not have the wire rack at the moment so Once I get that tomorrow I will install it in the Keezer. Overall, this was easy to build so far and I thank you all for the great ideas!!

I did not overload the PVC with holes yet. I added "some" and then will add more depending on the amount of air movement. This may need some adjusting...

I will post a picture later of this installed in the Keezer with the wire racking I found. You will also see why I Offset the Fan on the PVC because I had to consider my Two - 4-Port CO2 distributors

 

[chucho311]

Here is the wire rack I used and the air system installed in the Keezer. I had to use a hacksaw and cut the wire rack to the right size. I got this at Menards for around $6. I then used the white wire closet shelf rubber end caps (not sure what the are called) to put over the sharp edges I cut with the hacksaw.
I drilled a bunch more holes in the bottom as the fan seemed to be working hard to get the air through. I seem to have the right amount now.

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