kegerator ripoff

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tdoft

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
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Location
Windsor Colorado
So, after talking to a friend (with a lot more money) who bought a
new Beverage Air dual tapper, I decided I'd like one also-for about a
Grand less... That next day a Craigslist light shown down on me...a tripple tapper
Bev Air/Superior for 500 bones. Looked old but good and the homebrewer who sold
It to me (for 375 after haggle) said it worked GREAT and said it was about 5 years old. So I get it home, wait a day, and plug it in. Cool-perhaps. Cold? Not so much.
The next day I had it looked at by an expert who knew immediately the
fridge was toast. The fatal flaw?-it takes R12 refridgerant-which has been illegal to manufacture since the mid-nineties. It probably just needs a coolant recharge but...... He won't work on it and doesn't know anyone who
will. It must be 15 years old.....! Check and Mate.
So, take home lesson kidz...If it doesn't take R-134 refridgerant think thrice or more
before plunking down your hard earned cash. Bev-Air from the stone age is shockingly
similar (in appearence) the Bev-Air 2010.
Learn from my ignorance!!!!!
So....if anyone knows how to convert a Bev -Air BM 23 from R12 to R134 I'm all ears....
 
I think you can still get R-12 for about $200/lb. That should only cost you $300-500 to recharge a system that likely has a leak...
It is possible that damage happened during transit, especially if it is that old.
PM me the serial and I will see if i can get the age from the Beverage Air website.


The lesson here for EVERYONE about refrigeration: Many companies have a search function on their websites that allow you to check serial numbers for age and sometimes warranty calls made. True and Beverage Air both have this service. Perhaps the most sketchy thing to buy used is anything involving refrigeration. If you see a unit for sale, contact the person and request the serial to see if you can look it up. If they cant find it or wont give it to you move on.
 
Don't despair, persevere. You can still get R-12 as Tdoft said and there are several drop in replacement refrigerants available. They aren't as efficent as R-12 but will be fine in a unit that isn't being used commercially. If you are enough of a do it yourselfer to brew you can do the research and convert that thing over to 134A or hot-shot.
 
Thanks for your replies gentlemen. If only I had known...I am going to look into conversion to R-134 but if it's successful I think I'll sell it anyway. You see, I was really pushing the envelope in terms efficiency anyway. Part of the reason I wanted a smaller kegerator was to save energy and space. Now that I know the fridge is OLD (and I will get around to checking exactly how old) best case scenario, I get it operating at it's peak efficiency-which sux relative to today's newer models. I have solar panels on my house and they are supposed to keep me off the grid-which they won't if their sole purpose is to drive my beasterator.:drunk:
 
r134a conversion might require replacing the compressor, since the mineral oil used with r12 isn't compatable with the pag oil used in a r134a system and the 2 oils don't mix very well....
 
You use ester oil when you convert. It is miscible with mineral and the R134a. PAG is just for OEM apps to ensure planned obsolescences.
 
There is also the size of the gas which may or may not effect the capillary tube.
 
Sounds expensive and complicated no? I think I'll use it for parts (the tower and taps are very nice and functional) and write off the extra cost as "refriderant education." Thanks for your help.
 
Just a question, did you lay it on it`s side during transport? Just asking because that would cause the oil in the compressor to drain away from where it`s supposed to be.If that was the case it would help to let it sit for 2 days to give the oil a chance to drain back to where it`s supposed to be.Of course I`m sure your appliance guy covered that possibility.Also maybe give it a good week to cycle enough to stabilize the temp. I know that whenever I adjust the temp on my fridge , it takes several days to stabilize. Of course if some freon did leak out...recharging it would most likely be a waste until you locate the source of the leak first.It`s been my experience that fridges don`t loose a charge unless there`s a leak.
 
Great point bctdi. I did transport it on it's side but left it about 36hrs upright before plugging it in. Per your suggestion I am going to plug it in again and give it another chance to prove to me that it works....or doesn't.
 
I am a little suspect of your expert R12 can still be bought. You need to have the proper license though. I have two 30 # in my garage bought in the early 80's because my old cars use R12 . I have a reclamation unit too.
 
You might be able to use some freon called freeze 12 which some automotive stores carry. I know that Carquest carries it here in the Memphis Tn area. Its just a suggestion.
 
Thanks to all your encouragement I decided to seek a second opinion re: my dilemma. I found a shop who took on my problem. A day later...it's all good!!! Just a simple leak in the system easily plugged, and the R12 replaced with R414. Apparently R414 is the Hydrochorofluorocarbon equivalent of the cholorfluorocarbon containing R12. No CFCs generated=safe for the environment.:) So, the repairs cost about 300 bones and the kegerator 375 but all in all it could have been worse...and the end result is one SWEET Kegerator. I'll post pics soon.:mug:
 
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