Keezer side question

[Imagineer]

does anybody have pics of a keezer with the taps coming out the side of the collar. I am wanting to build one but have wall space limitations. I would like to bulid a nice surround for a freezer but need to have taps coming out the side of the collar. and am hoping for some inspiration/info from those who have done it.

Also is there anything that would prohibit doing this?

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

Ok, just to be sure: You will have the taps on the narrow face of the chest freezer rather than out the wide side right? Or are we talking about a stand up freezer with taps through the wall of the freezer? I'm assuming since you mention a collar that it's the narrow side of a chest freezer.

There are multiple builds that have been done this way. The main choice is:

1) Put the taps over the hump where they sort of belong and look at the compressor opening all the time.

2) Put the taps on the other end, hide the compressor, and take up more tall space inside the freezer.

The other minor point is that in one case the lid opens left to right, in the other case it opens right to left. (or vice versa).

Do you have side access issues in addition to the wall space restrictions? In other words is it in a corner or sticking out into a room? If it's sticking out into a room I'd sure consider a tower ....

Bob

 

[Imagineer]

You are correct. I am talking about a chest freezer, It can stick out into the room a bit that is no problem. As far as the compressor being exposed I planed to build a shell around it (that matches my cabinets) that could accommodate a different sized freezer in the future if/when this used one gives out. I didn't want to go the tower route as I was hoping to be able to use the surface on top as a part of my basement brew kitchen & I will be installing an upper cabinet above it to make it blend in better

I was hoping some members had some build pics I could use as a starting point of inspiration. I'm sure others have done this I have just no seen pics of units done this way Thanks for the reply I do think if possible I would like to put taps over the hump to maximize space, thanks for the suggestion.

 

[opiate82]

I know when I reserching my keezer build I came across several pictures of set-ups like that. Google "Turning chest freezer into a kegarator" or something similar and browse through the right ups, I'm sure you'll stumble upon some.

 

[carlisle_bob]

You are correct. I am talking about a chest freezer, It can stick out into the room a bit that is no problem. As far as the compressor being exposed I planed to build a shell around it (that matches my cabinets) that could accommodate a different sized freezer in the future if/when this used one gives out. I didn't want to go the tower route as I was hoping to be able to use the surface on top as a part of my basement brew kitchen & I will be installing an upper cabinet above it to make it blend in better

I was hoping some members had some build pics I could use as a starting point of inspiration. I'm sure others have done this I have just no seen pics of units done this way Thanks for the reply I do think if possible I would like to put taps over the hump to maximize space, thanks for the suggestion.

Hi

Using the surface of the freezer as a table means you need to reinforce it. They are all very flimsy as built.

If you put something like a cabinet over the lid, consider that you will be lifting tall heavy kegs in and out of the gizmo on a regular basis. You'll need to clear at least 30" above the lip to make it a reasonable lift. The freezer is likely 35" off the floor right now, add in a 6" collar and you are at 41". The bottom of the cabinet would be at 65" off fht floor. That's a *long* way up to the cabinet.

Finally, if the end of the freezer is out in the room, and it's a collar system, you run a risk with people bumping into the tap handles. Consider that they may have been drinking ...

Bob

 

[Imagineer]

Bob,

the top is going to be an edge grain Walnut & Ash butcher block (I'm tossing out the original lid) because you are so right those lids are flimsy.

I plan to have the the collar hinged since I'm short & need all the help I can get. on the occasion that I will need to get inside the keezer I'll simply roll it out from its parking place and do what I need to then roll it back.

My initial plan was to place the taps low on the collar so the countertop would easily clear the taps and prevent the "drunk bump spill" but in thinking about it you are right drunks are creative stumblers- I might need to devise a flip out of the way guard during the big parties.

My plea for information is more for any obstacles to be aware of in terms of running the lines or setting up the manifold I intend to have 4 separate pressures available at any given time run by a 20# tank.

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

Consider that as you add stuff to the lid, it gets heavier. The flimsy lids they put on freezers are done that way to make them easy to lift and easy on the hinges. If you dig into the threads on some of these conversions, they head off into power lift equipment to open the lid.

Roll around sounds fine. The gotcha is that you have a *lot* of weight in the keezer. Normal casters are a bit challenged by turning with big weight loads.

Bob

 

[Imagineer]

Hi

Consider that as you add stuff to the lid, it gets heavier. The flimsy lids they put on freezers are done that way to make them easy to lift and easy on the hinges. If you dig into the threads on some of these conversions, they head off into power lift equipment to open the lid.

Roll around sounds fine. The gotcha is that you have a *lot* of weight in the keezer. Normal casters are a bit challenged by turning with big weight loads.

Bob

Bob, do you think the wheels salvaged from a a refrigerator would work?

 

[carlisle_bob]

Bob, do you think the wheels salvaged from a a refrigerator would work?

Hi

The problem I generaly have is that there are three types:

1) weels that don't turn at all. You can roll forward and back, side to side - not so much.

2) Weels that rotate on bearings. You can roll in any direction, but changing directions means rotating on the bearings. They seem to fill up with crud and die pretty fast.

3) Expensive weels that look like balls. No need to change anything, they will roll any which way. I have never seen any that are rated for the load of a keezer + beer + fittings on top.

Bob

 

[Imagineer]

from the looks of the keezer builds on here, especially the coffin builds it seems that all have wheels on them in order to move away from the wall and open the lid. What types of wheels are folks using on these?

I would welcome other keezer builders to chime in with their experiences.

 

[carlisle_bob]

from the looks of the keezer builds on here, especially the coffin builds it seems that all have wheels on them in order to move away from the wall and open the lid. What types of wheels are folks using on these?

I would welcome other keezer builders to chime in with their experiences.

Hi

Most people use tool chest wheels or casters from the big box stores.

Bob