I built my own simple panel with a PWM power display several years ago but this past summer when my buddy was moving out of state and he wanted to unload all of his stuff, I couldn't resist. It gave me the chance to buy his RIMS setup and this unassembled Kal panel. I spent about 6 hours yesterday wiring it up. I believe I'm all done. He started it and I did probably 85-90% of it. Thought I'd post it online here for those who are familiar to weight in on my connections. I followed the manual to a T, even fixed one of his previous mistakes. Ignore the random hole on the right of the panel under the buzzer, he must have drilled an extra one my accident. I have yet to make the plugs but I made those before that's easy. That and the wall outlet are all I need, just have to figure out where exactly to put it so I have time to figure this out.
Kal Panel buildup
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mendozer
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One thin i noticed was when wiring up power, the diagram shows neutral coming from the 240 inlet plug running to the bus yet the picture of it wired, including how my buddy did it before I changed it, had neutral running to the water pump, then a neutral from water pump to bus. I assume it's fine either way, as long as all neutral terminals connect to the neutral bus in some way or another. I also noticed quite a few jumpers on the buses that I didn't do, but they were done beforehand, so IDK.
Order of routing usually isn't an issue. Many types of terminal strips require jumpers in order to create buses.
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Scout
Well-Known Member
If you have the covers for the big relays, be sure to put them on. I had one off while I was troubleshooting and some of the wires from the door pushed it closed when it wasn't supposed to be.
I'm not fond of what I hope is lamp cord, but since it won't be carrying more than 120v at less than an amp I suppose it's ok.
Also, the 5v power supplies, I've blown up (and repaired) mine a few times because the rubber wahers that hold them away from the backplane aren't tall enough and they shorted out, taking out the meters with them.
One thing I did to make future troubleshooting easier was to get some electrical tape in different colors. I'd cut a thin strip and wrap it around the end of a wire, and do the same to the other end. maybe two colors, etc. This way if I need to know where a wire goes, I can look fior the color pattern.
I'm not fond of what I hope is lamp cord, but since it won't be carrying more than 120v at less than an amp I suppose it's ok.
Also, the 5v power supplies, I've blown up (and repaired) mine a few times because the rubber wahers that hold them away from the backplane aren't tall enough and they shorted out, taking out the meters with them.
One thing I did to make future troubleshooting easier was to get some electrical tape in different colors. I'd cut a thin strip and wrap it around the end of a wire, and do the same to the other end. maybe two colors, etc. This way if I need to know where a wire goes, I can look fior the color pattern.
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mendozer
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I don't have the covers, or at least I haven't found them in the box of parts from my buddy.
Lamp cord is 18/2 stranded wire. The telephone stuff was too thin to use well and this is rated to 300V so it's appropriate.
I like the tape idea, but there are so many connections it'd be hard to label all of it. I did mark the 18/2 wire as they're the same color so to denote +/- I used sharpie on the insulation.
What did you end up doing on the 5v supplies?
Lamp cord is 18/2 stranded wire. The telephone stuff was too thin to use well and this is rated to 300V so it's appropriate.
I like the tape idea, but there are so many connections it'd be hard to label all of it. I did mark the 18/2 wire as they're the same color so to denote +/- I used sharpie on the insulation.
What did you end up doing on the 5v supplies?
Scout
Well-Known Member
I did the tape trick as I was building, so it was easier to do. I don't think i would go back and try to label it after it was built.
The 5v supplies, I'm kinda cheap so I took them to work and managed to troubleshoot and repair them. The hardware store has nylon washers, so I bought several and used them in addition to the rubber washers. I figured anything non-conductive to give extra space would be fine. I'm kinda mad about this, but I blew up the voltage meter because I put the plug in one pin off.
I hope you can find those covers, but in case you don't, at least you will know the likely cause if you have a relay that won't turn off.
Its a little messy because I was troubleshooting and working on the power supplies, but this is how mine looks.
The 5v supplies, I'm kinda cheap so I took them to work and managed to troubleshoot and repair them. The hardware store has nylon washers, so I bought several and used them in addition to the rubber washers. I figured anything non-conductive to give extra space would be fine. I'm kinda mad about this, but I blew up the voltage meter because I put the plug in one pin off.
I hope you can find those covers, but in case you don't, at least you will know the likely cause if you have a relay that won't turn off.
Its a little messy because I was troubleshooting and working on the power supplies, but this is how mine looks.
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mendozer
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where did you get the covers? I emailed Kal and he said his kits never come with them. And my buddy bought it from Kal so i guess he never had them in the boxes. Kal said as long as wires are tied nicely nothing should bow down and touch them
Scout
Well-Known Member
I bought my stuff like you did, from someone else. He had bought it several years earlier, (2011) punched the holes but nothing else. I just had a box of parts and they were there.
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