BreeBrew
Well-Known Member
Version 6.5.0 of the firmware should fix this.I have a couple of iSpindels, that after running the calibrate function in the maintenance menu page, they now read negative gravity. Anyone know how to fix this?
Thanks
Version 6.5.0 of the firmware should fix this.I have a couple of iSpindels, that after running the calibrate function in the maintenance menu page, they now read negative gravity. Anyone know how to fix this?
Thanks
Version 6.5.0 of the firmware should fix this.
Which boards did you use? Picture maybe? Because there are different setups with different kind of iSpindel PCB's.
First,I'd upgrade to a 6.4.1 or 6.5. Better equation, better calibration taking "roll" into account.It's a CherryPhillips v4.0 board running v6.3.1
...now 24 hours later I'm back into config mode and it's tilt is 85deg on a level surface.
I'm at a complete loss for how this thing can just fall out of calibration by 5deg in 24 hours.
Am I missing something here?
First,I'd upgrade to a 6.4.1 or 6.5. Better equation, better calibration taking "roll" into account.
Then I'd double check the formula you entered. Make sure it's all there.
Make sure it's less than 100 chars.
If needed, trim it a bit (you don't need 9 digits precision on all 4 a*tilt^3 + b * tilt² + c*tilt + d).
Then do a "CALIBRATE" and put it back in your known samples.
And let us know.
Oh no, I've just ordered 10 'Feiyang' GY-521 gyros from the 'SAMIORE Store' on Ali-Express. The picture has the same black A106 component as your picture. Can I expect them to all be duff? Is there an easy way to test them or will I end up losing my patience desoldering them on my Jeffery 2.69 boards? Is there a reliable supplier anyone can recommend?Yes those are the real deal, I build 20 iSpindels with those and they all work. See also LOLIN D1 mini — WEMOS documentation
What I notices with the gyro boards is that the ones on the left with the orangy/yellowy block are working all fine, the other ones with the black block on the right 3 out of 10 worked from my last order.
Have you attached the controller to a serial terminal on startup to see what it's doing?I need some iSpindel build troubleshooting help/advice.
Yes. forgot to mention that. Thanks. Nothing there.Have you attached the controller to a serial terminal on startup to see what it's doing?
Thanks @BreeBrew . I have Raspberry Pis, but no Arduinos. I guess I'll just have to ask around locally to see if anyone has one I can borrow. BangGood have UK stock of the Geekcreit brand of D1 Mini and GY-521 so perhaps I'll give them a go first. Lets hope the delivered items look like the pictures!@Tom4c I have to nuance my findings a bit. I ordered 10 gy=521 at a store on aliexpress(US $5.4 |10PS X GY 521 MPU 6050 MPU6050 Module 3 Axis gyro sensors+ 3 Axis Accelerometer Module|Integrated Circuits| - AliExpress) where I bought before with the orange block, but now with the black block. I all tested them before soldering and they all work.
You can test them with a program that is called MPUTeapot but you'll need an Arduino uno and a breadboard and some wires.
As for the WAVGAT, they are half the price of the official Lolin ones so I bought 4 of them to try out and 1 out of 4 worked, the rest I threw away. I never ever by clones again.
Hi @ZeSlammy how do you "test for the deep sleep bug"? It seems like a sensible thing to do before soldering up the D1 Mini, is it a complicated test?Hey guys. Anyway we can start a WhiteList / BlackList of suppliers (mainly Ali Express ones) who carry bad/good batches of D1, Gyros etc ? I just tested 32 D1 Minis for the DeepSleep "bug", 28 out of 32 were bad ... I would hate for this to happen to someone else ...
I think you just need to run the iSpindel in regular operating mode with the update period set reasonably fast (20 seconds) and see if the D1's LED flashes every 20 seconds. If so, then it's coming out of deepsleep fine.Hi @ZeSlammy how do you "test for the deep sleep bug"? It seems like a sensible thing to do before soldering up the D1 Mini, is it a complicated test?
Hi. Thanks for your reply. I don’t have the rest of the iSpindel parts yet. I was hoping to test the d1 mini on its own, before it’s integrated with the rest of the build. It sounds as though there are some scripts that can be used to do this?I think you just need to run the iSpindel in regular operating mode with the update period set reasonably fast (20 seconds) and see if the D1's LED flashes every 20 seconds. If so, then it's coming out of deepsleep fine.
I'm not sure how you can (easily) test it before assembly.
If that's not correct, please let me know.
Hi @ZeSlammy how do you "test for the deep sleep bug"? It seems like a sensible thing to do before soldering up the D1 Mini, is it a complicated test?
void ICACHE_RAM_ATTR handleInterrupt();
void setup() {
Serial.begin(74880);
//Serial.setTimeout(2000);
// Wait for serial to initialize.
while(!Serial) {
Serial.println("...");
}
// Deep sleep mode for 10 seconds, the ESP8266 wakes up by itself when GPIO 16
// (D0 in NodeMCU board) is connected to the RESET pin
Serial.println("I'm awake, but I'm going into deep sleep mode for 10 seconds");
ESP.deepSleep(10e6);
}
void loop() {
}
Brilliant,Put a BAT43 between RST & D0
Load a simple DeepSleep sketch
Code:void ICACHE_RAM_ATTR handleInterrupt(); void setup() { Serial.begin(74880); //Serial.setTimeout(2000); // Wait for serial to initialize. while(!Serial) { Serial.println("..."); } // Deep sleep mode for 10 seconds, the ESP8266 wakes up by itself when GPIO 16 // (D0 in NodeMCU board) is connected to the RESET pin Serial.println("I'm awake, but I'm going into deep sleep mode for 10 seconds"); ESP.deepSleep(10e6); } void loop() { }
Reset and check if you have the "I'm awake" message every 10 seconds.
Hi @BreeBrew. Many thanks for your earlier post. I have now tested a couple of different Gy-521 boards. Both work with the tests that send 'raw data' to the Serial Monitor, I can tilt the boards and see the data change. Is this sufficient evidence that the board is working?@Tom4c I have to nuance my findings a bit. I ordered 10 gy=521 at a store on aliexpress(US $5.4 |10PS X GY 521 MPU 6050 MPU6050 Module 3 Axis gyro sensors+ 3 Axis Accelerometer Module|Integrated Circuits| - AliExpress) where I bought before with the orange block, but now with the black block. I all tested them before soldering and they all work.
You can test them with a program that is called MPUTeapot but you'll need an Arduino uno and a breadboard and some wires.
As for the WAVGAT, they are half the price of the official Lolin ones so I bought 4 of them to try out and 1 out of 4 worked, the rest I threw away. I never ever by clones again.
Over on the iSpindel GitHub pages there WAS a discusion about adding Automatic Temperature Compensation to the firmware. However, as there wasn't any real traction for this wonderful feature and so it's been dropped, which makes me sad. Sadder as I didn't spot it early enough to add my voice or to make sure it was noticed in a wider audience.
So... I'm hoping that by bringing it to the attention of a wider audience we can see if there is indeed any interest? Who'd like their iSpindel to give them a SG that compensated for temperature?
Another issue with the 50mL tube that I hadn't thought of until recently is buoyancy. I did a test with just the battery in a tube and it floated at the level of the cap. I need to study the math more but I'm guessing that's not going to let it tilt correctly. I'm not sure if a taller tube with the same diameter is available or if I can 3d print an extension to it.
Still a lot of work to do...
Floaty is the way I think, with a 3D printed something.I did see a Cherryphillip74 design for a 50ml tube, but the thread seem to have gone stale and for several reasons I'm not interested in custom PCB versions. Mainly I would like to use my 3d printer, but it also seems like a complicated, expensive and time consuming way to solder togther off the shelf components. I already have most or all of the components and just want to fit them into a smaller tube rather than start over.
I have been looking for an explanation of what the resistors and diode in the wiring diagrams I have seen do. If they are for the temperature sensor or a litihum ion battery, I would be very happy to leave them out and just have the D1 mini, MPU6050 and LiFePO4 battery.
There are plenty of sites that discuss the electronics required to make the iSpindel work. Briefly, diode to stabalise the reset circuit, resistors pull up for the temperature sensor and voltage divider to allow the D1 mini to measure the battery voltage. The iSpindel won't complete the boot cycle if it doesn't find all of the hardware.I did see a Cherryphillip74 design for a 50ml tube, but the thread seem to have gone stale and for several reasons I'm not interested in custom PCB versions. Mainly I would like to use my 3d printer, but it also seems like a complicated, expensive and time consuming way to solder togther off the shelf components. I already have most or all of the components and just want to fit them into a smaller tube rather than start over.
I have been looking for an explanation of what the resistors and diode in the wiring diagrams I have seen do. If they are for the temperature sensor or a litihum ion battery, I would be very happy to leave them out and just have the D1 mini, MPU6050 and LiFePO4 battery.
Yes, the Floaty really is elegant, just two inexpensive boards and a battery. I have to order a new LOLIN32 Lite to give it another try.Floaty is the way I think, with a 3D printed something.
Yes, I know what you mean. I do small batches and I just got a used glass drink dispenser that I am going to try to convert into a fermenter just so I can get a floating type hydrometer in.I cannot find a suitable tube, small enough to fit into (and out of) a 1 gallon demijohn
Yes, you can put a 330 ohms resistor in place of the diode.Yes, the Floaty really is elegant, just two inexpensive boards and a battery. I have to order a new LOLIN32 Lite to give it another try.
While I wait I have a MPU6050, D1 mini and matching perf board, and even the temperature sensor, just not the charger or resistors, diode, or the ridiculously rare and expensive pelting. I can go without the charger I think, I can get the resistors locally, I have several of the 50ml centrifuge tubes, so it is just the diode I need to find. One source I looked at said you can use another resistor so I might try that.
Yes, I know what you mean. I do small batches and I just got a used glass drink dispenser that I am going to try to convert into a fermenter just so I can get a floating type hydrometer in.
Indulge me, save me some scrollback, and tell me about (or link me to) information on the floaty?Yes, the Floaty really is elegant
https://www.diyhomebrewers.com/2020/09/floaty-wifi-hydrometer-montaje-y-como.htmlIndulge me, save me some scrollback, and tell me about (or link me to) information on the floaty?
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