For all you IPA fans out there,
and to get this written down before i lose my brew notes.
Would be glad to hear from the hop-heads think about this recipe.
General info--{projected}
figured for 65% efficiency per "brewmate" v1.26
10 gallon batch
OG 1.061
FG 1.013
ABV 6.33
IBU 54.7
GRAINS/FERMENTABLES
20.0-lbs Marris Otter
1.5-lbs American 2-row
.5-lbs Carapils (dextrine) malt
.5-lbs caramel-80
.5-lbs victory malt
1.0-lbs cane sugar (added after flame out)
HOPS
2.0-oz US fuggles @FWH
.5-oz amarillo @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz cascade @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz centennial @ 5 minutes
.5-oz citra @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz mosaic @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz cascade @ dry hop after primary (probably for a week)
WATER
I used the 5.2 water salts. 2 spoonfulls for strike, 1 for sparge water.
8-gallons strike water heated to 165-f
(due to having a new/slower set up this led to a )
protein rest for 30 minutes @ 130-f
(while i boiled 2 more gallons to up the temp for the )
sacc rest for 1 hour ( or maybe it was 90 minutes, lost track of time multitasking ) temp was 145-f
6-gallons sparge water heated to 185-f
which i started draining into the MT during the vourloft to keep the water level above the grains and this also bumped the temps up to 148-f/150-f ish
BOIL
60-65 minutes
NO CHILL METHOD
(this gets the IBU into IPA range and lets me be a lazy azz, that and my immersion chiller is broke anyways)
YEAST
will pitch onto a slurry that's a mix of US-04/05
===================================================
I'll post actuall readings after the wort is chilled and i'm ready to pitch it onto yeast.
Readings from the mash varied from 1.060 to 1.020
Did not test for PH but did perform iodine tests (which were fine)
ANYWHO
Hop Heads feel free to chime in here,
I'm not a fan of IPA's myself but wanted to brew a 10-gallon batch to deflower my new electric set up (caveman electric)
How `close to style` to an American IPA all this crap sound?
Did i break any cardinal rules?
If you were making an IPA what might you change,ect,ect.
I keg so force carbing is planned right after the 1-week dry hopping
(this could become a longer dry hopping depending when i get a keg opened up for new beer)
Thanks in advance for any feedback (except for "RDWHAHB" or "it will be beer" as i'm not worried and am well aware that "it will still be beer" )
Oh, and :turtle:
and to get this written down before i lose my brew notes.
Would be glad to hear from the hop-heads think about this recipe.
General info--{projected}
figured for 65% efficiency per "brewmate" v1.26
10 gallon batch
OG 1.061
FG 1.013
ABV 6.33
IBU 54.7
GRAINS/FERMENTABLES
20.0-lbs Marris Otter
1.5-lbs American 2-row
.5-lbs Carapils (dextrine) malt
.5-lbs caramel-80
.5-lbs victory malt
1.0-lbs cane sugar (added after flame out)
HOPS
2.0-oz US fuggles @FWH
.5-oz amarillo @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz cascade @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz centennial @ 5 minutes
.5-oz citra @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz mosaic @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz cascade @ dry hop after primary (probably for a week)
WATER
I used the 5.2 water salts. 2 spoonfulls for strike, 1 for sparge water.
8-gallons strike water heated to 165-f
(due to having a new/slower set up this led to a )
protein rest for 30 minutes @ 130-f
(while i boiled 2 more gallons to up the temp for the )
sacc rest for 1 hour ( or maybe it was 90 minutes, lost track of time multitasking ) temp was 145-f
6-gallons sparge water heated to 185-f
which i started draining into the MT during the vourloft to keep the water level above the grains and this also bumped the temps up to 148-f/150-f ish
BOIL
60-65 minutes
NO CHILL METHOD
(this gets the IBU into IPA range and lets me be a lazy azz, that and my immersion chiller is broke anyways)
YEAST
will pitch onto a slurry that's a mix of US-04/05
===================================================
I'll post actuall readings after the wort is chilled and i'm ready to pitch it onto yeast.
Readings from the mash varied from 1.060 to 1.020
Did not test for PH but did perform iodine tests (which were fine)
ANYWHO
Hop Heads feel free to chime in here,
I'm not a fan of IPA's myself but wanted to brew a 10-gallon batch to deflower my new electric set up (caveman electric)
How `close to style` to an American IPA all this crap sound?
Did i break any cardinal rules?
If you were making an IPA what might you change,ect,ect.
I keg so force carbing is planned right after the 1-week dry hopping
(this could become a longer dry hopping depending when i get a keg opened up for new beer)
Thanks in advance for any feedback (except for "RDWHAHB" or "it will be beer" as i'm not worried and am well aware that "it will still be beer" )
Oh, and :turtle:
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