So it's working now?Inside cabinet- wort and water led buttons
Do you have a diagram for the HLT alarm switch, so I can check my work?
Also curious as to how the HLT switch and buzzer function. I assume when you go to boil the HLT switch is turned on,(right click) and then once to temp the alarm sounds and the switch can be turned off. Assuming the switch only lights up when the switch is turned on.
Don't keep us in suspense... what was causing the trip? And, congrats on figuring it out.Thank you for the diagram.
I found the initial cause for the breaker trip and I’ll be able to test everything again once I buy a fuse. I should be able to get to a store in the next day or so.
It was a wiring mistake at the power on/off switch.Don't keep us in suspense... what was causing the trip? And, congrats on figuring it out.
Brew on
Can you post some overview and close up (multiple angle) pics of the key switch and contactor(s). Need to be able to tell where all wires are connected, and have some idea where the wires go.I don’t think it was the key switch after all and the breaker in the sub panel continues to trip.
I disconnected most of the wiring to try and isolate the problem and it’s not the ssr’s or the receptacles for the heating elements. All I have connected now is the power linking the HLT and Boil contractor, the fuse link and the runs connected to the 120volt coils of all three contractors and it still trips. The breaker was tripping with the fuse removed from its harness. Starting to wonder if there is a problem with the key switch or the main contractor/contractors???
The best I could was a drawing of what’s connected now. A picture wouldn't help, because of the disconnected wires and mess created. Power from the sub panel enters from the bottom of the main contractor.
I understand contactors to deliver power when the contractor taps connect, but I’m a bit lost with how the 120v coil functions.
Does the key in the on position allow for the taps to make a connection and thus allows for electricity to move to the opposite side of the contractor?
Gotcha.
So, the wire position on the 3 and 4 spot of the key switch doesn’t really matter, bc there is a connection either way once power is supplied??
Gotcha.
I assume the connection tabs on both sides of the contractors are 120v only.
Separate topic- I originally wired my panel to be portable should I decide to brew indoors or out and currently it’s wired with a prong and outlet receptacle. I’ve decide to make my setup 100% indoors, so is there a 240v stop switch/level that I could install in place of the prong and outlet setup? Otherwise, hardwiring would mean I have to use the breaker in my sub or main panel to kill power and there’s a distance between the brew setup and those shut offs. I now see a value to the spa type box with a kill lever. Just something to interrupt power.
I didn’t ground the contractors.
There are some difference between the pictures and sketches on the 30amp panel build page. For example, the fuse run off the boil contractor and the boil and HLT contractors both have grounds on one of the coil sides.
Your key switch needs at least one NO (normally open) block. When you turn the key the block will close and let current flow.
The coil of your contactor must be 120V. Which model do you have?
Where is your GFCI? In the main panel?
The key switch would be enough to cut power but if you are not feeling good about that, just unplug the plug. You could also add a 240V disconnect to cut power.
The 30amp gfi breaker is in the sub panel. I like the idea of the 240v disconnect.
Here is my contact purchase thru amazon.
however, once I connect the black wire to link up the other two contractors, power is lost only on that side of the contractor. No breakers trip. The wire alone without connection to the other contractors will lose power.
View attachment 554268
Okay. I have power going into the main contractor and the breaker doesn’t trip when the key is on and there is voltage on the opposite site of the contractor. Once I connect the 10AWG black wire to the HLT contractor or just connecting the black wire alone and not to the HLT post, electricity is lost on that side of the main contractor. I’m not detecting electricity upstream of the main contractor. No other connection in that picture have been made at this point.
I was just testing the upstream flow with a sensor that lights up.
I used a multimeter and no voltage going through when the key is turned on. I didn’t hear the contacts being made either. Def have 240 and 120 going thru the key switch. Bad contractor?
Without the neutral side of the coil connected, the contactor will not turn on. Current flows in a loop, and the neutral is part of that loop for a 120V circuit. Break the loop anywhere, and current stops flowing.I believe so, but I’d have to double check. I don’t have the neutral side of the 120v coil connected at the moment.
Sounds more like the neutral on the GFCI is not hooked up correctly, so that when some current flows thru the neutral, the GFCI thinks it is leakage rather than legit return current.Back a little bit early from skiing and back to working on the brew panel.
Today I double checked everything with a multimeter and I can confirm that 240v is going into the contractor, (does it matter which side it enters??). Then I checked the key switch with power on and off and I do have 120v at the coil. However, once I connect the neutral wire to the coil on opposite side of the contractor, the breaker is tripped. Nothing else is connected to the neutral bus other than the white wire from the sub panel.
Faulty contractor??
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