Hole too low in kettle - how can I recover?

[rkhanso]

I have an aluminum kettle that I drilled a hole in for mounting an electric heating element. I drilled the hole before I had the nut to secure the heating element and found that I drilled the hole too low (close to the curve of the bottom/side area). My mistake - I was trying to go as low as possible to keep the element low in the kettle - and took it too far.

Is there a good/best way to recover from this? I already ground down the locknut at the hex points but that's not enough. I tried to grind down the inside of the kettle a bit, but either didn't go far enough or in the right area.

I have to believe someone has made this same mistake before.

Or, should I have my friend weld it up - just patch the kettle and start over?

Here are a couple of not-so-helpful pictures.

 

[FunkedOut]

does the nut fit at all?
you could leave the nut still and tighten the element.

 

[rkhanso]

The nut could fit, though I think the element may be at an upward angle inside the kettle.

But no, I can't hold the nut and tighten the element because it's a ULWD Ripple element.

 

[TimmyWit]

I think having your friend weld it would be the preferred option. If you want a second option, do a search for "weldless brew kettle plug". For about $6, I think you could patch it with that. That looks like a pretty rough hole too. I'm not sure what you used but I usually have pretty good luck with a center punch & step bit.

 

[Silentdrinker]

Having it welded would be best if it doesn't cost you. Otherwise you can try to seal the hole by brazing it with an aluminum plug, sand/grind it then drill again. Or you can try to braze a coupler in for the element.. You can get aluminum brazing rod at home depot then all you need is a propane torch. It's almost like welding it, so it's a really strong bond. But the pot may cost less than the materials to braze. If you already have the torch then it's a few bucks.

 

[schematix]

This is why I don’t start major modifications until I have all parts in hand first. Dry fit everything first as much as possible. Measure three times and cut once.

 

[thunderwagn]

I'd check into a weldolet or have a threaded type port welded on.

 

[rkhanso]

I'm going to try a larger o-ring. I bought the nut and o-ring from Bobby at brew Hardware. I'm sure that o-ring works OK under proper circumstances, but I think a thicker o-ring may work for me. I found one on Amazon that is 1" x 1 3/8" and 3/16" thick. I'll give that a try first.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWOBG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[rkhanso]

I put one of these o-rings in, along with a bit more teflon tape on the heat element threads - and it is not leaking yet after 30 minutes. It's looking promising.

I think that I'll replace the o-ring I got locally at Lowes with a silicone o-ring from eBay HERE. It's even 1/16th thicker and should seal even a bit better. I measured the groove in the nut and it is 1 3/8 diameter, so I think this little bigger o-ring from eBay will still fit.

 

[Action]

Break out the grinder.....Grind down the nut....
Jack

 

[mlevings12]

I thought aluminum was no good for brew kettle?

 

[ancientmariner52]

I thought aluminum was no good for brew kettle?

Look in the equipment and sanitation forum. There's a sticky that covers this topic. I can summarize it for you: aluminium is just fine. I understand your concern, but it's really a non-issue.

 

[mlevings12]

Look in the equipment and sanitation forum. There's a sticky that covers this topic. I can summarize it for you: aluminium is just fine. I understand your concern, but it's really a non-issue.

Good to know. Thanks for the reference.