Help with understanding PH and Alkalinity

[RyanKraus]

I have been reading a lot about the importance of mash PH. Unfortunately, I have not been able to fully grasp the concept, and often fear that I may be doing more harm than good. My end products have not been as good since I have tried to adjust the PH with noticeable harsh hop profiles, cloudiness, and a few batches with a sharp bitter profile maybe even astringent.

Please Help!

Below is a sample brew day:

Boil Size: 10.29 gal
Batch Size: 6.00 gal
Boil Time: 90 minutes
Efficiency: 87%
OG: 1.065

Tools:
I-Brew 2 (Ipad app)
EZ-water calculator 3.0.2

Unaltered water profile:
76 ppm Ca - Calcium
36 ppm Mg – Magnesium
39 ppm Na – Sodium
76 ppm Cl – Chloride
42 ppm SO4 – Sulfate
340 ppm CaCO3 – Alkalinity

Grain:
9.0 lbs Base (2-Row)
3.9 lbs British Golden Promise
1.1 lbs English Medium Crystal
.75 lbs Aromatic Malt
0.2 lbs Roasted Barley

Hops:
0.6 oz Amarillo Gold – 60 min
2.0 oz Warrior – 60 min
2.4 oz Amarillo Gold – 0 min

Additions:
4 grams CaSO4 – Gypsum (Added to mash only)
6 ml 88% Lactic Acid (Added to mash only)
Whirlfloc – Last 15 min of Boil

Mash Profile:
6.5 gal Water – Sacch Rest @153 F for 60min (Thin at 1.75qt/lb)
Rise temp to 168 F for 10 min
4.0 gal Fly Sparge @ 168 F over 30-60 min

I start out by heating the strike water to 160F. I add the Gypsum and Lactic acid to the water.
I add the grain to the altered strike water. I run an e-HERMS system that rises the mash to the target 153F and holds the temp constant for 60 minutes. The mash is recalculated as part of the HERMS, and I also stir the grain bed about 4 times during the hour. I raise the mash temp to 168F and hold for 10 minutes. I fly sparge with 168F water over 30-60 minutes. The boil was for 90 min, and I use a bag to retain the pellet hop additions. At the end of the boil I whirlpool and drop the wort to 185F. I then use a counter flow chiller, and plate chiller to rapidly cool the wort directly into my primary carboy at 62F.

What should I do differently in terms of PH / Alkalinity control for a better beer?
I look forward to your help and replies….
The thin mash is necessary to properly control the mash temp, and have a fluid grain bed with my system.

 

[SpeedYellow]

Not sure why you think mash pH is the problem, other than its current boogeyman status here. Looks more like the water; I wouldn't consider that acceptable brewing water for my beers. Try using distilled/RO next time (with mild CaCl / gypsum additions) and see what you think.

 

[mabrungard]

That water is on the limit with regard to magnesium content and it is just really mineralized. I can see that you don't actually live in Milwaukee since that is not Great Lakes water. I assume you are in a western suburb?

I suggest that you would be much happier by cutting that tap water by at least half with distilled or RO water to reduce the mineralization.

I also note that you say you are adding acid to only the mash??? The sparging water HAS to be acidified due to its huge alkalinity. This is one of those 'get what you pay for' situations. Bru'n Water does provide a bit more guidance in helping you avoid missing an issue like this.