Help Wanted: Water Report

[PAjwPhilly]

I started thinking about my water recently and had some trouble believing my pH strips. I was under the impression that my water was very acidic (pH strips). So I bought 5.2 buffer, a water filter kit, and a lab analysis. Now my mind is blown...

This sample was city tap water ran for about 10 minutes and filtered for about the same amount of time (new filter). Afterwards I bottled a it and sent to the lab. I have bought a new pH meter to help me figure it out but the probe solution for storage is being sent across country. So until then I am going with this.


pH 9.5

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 289
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.48
Cations / Anions, me/L 5.1 / 5.5

ppm
Sodium (Na) 31
Potassium, (K) 10
Calcium, (Ca) 43
Magnesium, (Mg) 17
Total Hardness, (CaCO3) 178
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, (SO4-S) 24
Chloride, (Cl) 42
Carbonate, (CO3) 34
Bicarbonate, (HCO3) 104
Total Alkalinity, (CaCO3) 142
"<" - Not Detected / Below Detection Limit

Can anyone give me some basic insight to my water report and how it is affecting my mash? I just received the brewing elements series book, Water, but have not had time to sit and read it. My total Alkalinity seems to be high and my calcium seems to be low.... and my pH is off the charts basic.

Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[IL1kebeer]

Your residual alkalinity is a bit on the high side at 101 (per Palmers spreadsheet), but its not disastrously high. You can dilute with RO or distilled water and add back some calcium (gypsum or calcium chloride) to make adjustments for a grist that would be too alkaline in the mash (think lighter beers). The good news is that if you are going to brew some darker beers you might not need to make many adjustments, unless you are brewing a stout or some porters. Keep in mind that each grainbill is different so this is a generalization and you need to monitor your PH until you feel comfortable with your water (and even then you still should check your PH).

Also, if you are going to brew hoppy beers I would add 2-3 grams of gypsum to your mash. Again, this will add some calcium.

Finally, not sure if I understood you correctly but it sounded like you are checking the PH of your water. You don't have to. What's important is your mash PH, and from what I've read, water PH has little to do with your mash PH.

I want to emphasize again that this is a really broad crash course that will probably get you to where you need to be. I'd do some research if I were you so that you can completely understand all of the important working parts of your water chemistry.

 

[PAjwPhilly]

After spending last night reading, Water, from the brewing elements series, I am still confused. I have also found an article on pH and carbon filters...

pH rise phenomenon. About 2/3 of the way down on this article. http://www.tigg.com/blame-game.html

Has anyone else noticed a pH increase after using carbon filtration?

 

[PAjwPhilly]

Any feedback on the accuracy in these two excel spreadsheets?

Palmers Mash RA ver2e & EZ water calculator

 

[Denny's Evil Concoctions]

If I remember correctly, Total alkalinity is the one that has some indication as to how the water will affect the mash, as that has to do with buffering. (I used to know this stuff inside and out but haven't had to care for years so...)

I have a lot of Calcium and a high Total Alkalinity (I think thats correct). The only issues I have are brewing low SRM beers as there are no acidic dark malts to lower PH.

Test your mash PH. It's the only real indicator of what's going on as far as PH is concerned. Other water factors do influence taste/mouthfeel.

I could look this stuff up for you but since you have a book...... I'll be lazy.

 

[PAjwPhilly]

Thanks for the reply.

With the two spreadsheets I mentioned I kinda figured it out. The problem was.... I got a water report and was looking how to mess with my water instead of learning about water first. Now I am able to read the book and not look for answers.

 

[bchurch]

Is this Phoenixville tap water or are you on a well?

 

[PAjwPhilly]

This was carbon filtered Phoenixville tap water during the summer months. I got it retested after I used my filter a few times to see if the pH dropped (pH rise phenomenon).

The water profile changed drastically for winter water. I can post that if you want.

 

[Denny's Evil Concoctions]

Adding some HCL acid will add chloride and reduce pH. Adding some food grade epson salts will boost the sulfates. Using palmers ver 2 spreadsheets should help you figure out the chloride/sulfate balance.

You could alternatively use lactic acid and use calcium chloride to boost chlorides.

 

[PAjwPhilly]

The Ca dropped in my 2nd analysis. I am guessing its differences between summer and winter water. I currently use 88% lactic acid, gypsum, and calcium chloride. I usually use just enough to hit my 50ppm of calcium and maybe a little more to push sulfates up on a hoppy beer.

I might as well just post the report. Carbon filtered Phoenixville tap water, winter analysis.

pH 7.5

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 275
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.46
Cations / Anions, me/L 4.6 / 4.6

ppm
Sodium, Na 34
Potassium, K 3
Calcium, Ca 39
Magnesium, Mg 13
Total Hardness, CaCO3 152
Nitrate, NO3-N 3.3 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 18
Chloride, Cl 61
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 92
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 75
"<" - Not Detected / Below Detection Limit

 

[Queequeg]

You have low Ca and high Total Alkalinity. Ca+ is the main ion that acidifies your wort in the presence of grist. Total alkalinity is the buffering power that cancels out this acidification.

Darker malts react more with the Ca+ to produce a stronger acidification of the wort. Lighter malts react less.

In your instance you have low Ca+ and high TA, so all except the darkest of beers will have a mash pH that will probably be to high.

So you will probably want to add Gypsum during the mash, this will raise you Ca+ and produce more acid, lowering the pH. This is also increase you sulphate levels which luckily for you are low so won't go out of range. If the pH still isn't in range you can add an acid.