Heating element covers

[Minbari]

What do you guys use to cover the exterior of heating elements in your electric setups? I dont like the idea of 240VAC just sitting out in the open for a wandering finger to touch.

Here is what I mean:

 

[Jaybird]

Check out how he does it. Super simple!

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements

Cheers
Jay

 

[webby45wr]

Or the setup at BrewHardware: http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

 

[Poobah58]

I would be just as concerned about not having a grounded pot! Check out brewhardware.com
Do you unwire the elements each time you brew to clean the pots? Consider running your wire to a junction box/outlet. Then wire the element to a plug for easy removal.

 

[TNugent]

What do you guys use to cover the exterior of heating elements in your electric setups? I dont like the idea of 240VAC just sitting out in the open for a wandering finger to touch.

Here is what I mean:

Dude, that is very scary!

I used the brewhardware.com ones myself and I love them although I have TC fittings in my kettles.

 

[atoughram]

Dont be the next Darwin award winner - Ground those kettles ASAP!

 

[Minbari]

I have actually not used it yet, why I wanted some ideas on the covers. It will get covered before I use it.

 

[Poobah58]

I have actually not used it yet, why I wanted some ideas on the covers. It will get covered before I use it.

AND grounded!
At the very least, replace the plexiglass with stainless or aluminum. Then ground that.

 

[atoughram]

Or the setup at BrewHardware: http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

I've got these too - they're awesome

 

[AnOldUR]

I found the lid from a paint can fit snuggly over mine.
Probably not UL listed.

 

[mascervesa]

I just set up my cover and have found the following thread useful. I set up mine like post #6 with the 2 gang metal box, but with switchcraft electrical connections like post 100. Like everyone else said, make sure it is grounded.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/show-us-your-element-housings-pots-how-did-you-do-212079/

 

[Minbari]

I found the lid from a paint can fit snuggly over mine.
Probably not UL listed.

very creative. I might have those around, lol.

 

[kal]

I would also change that wiring to be something that's meant to be run as a cord. You're using in-wall wiring.

Speaking of which, what wattage is that 240VAC heating element? The wiring you're using looks like standard 14/2 wiring which is only good to 15A.

Kal

 

[Minbari]

I would also change that wiring to be something that's meant to be run as a cord. You're using in-wall wiring.

Speaking of which, what wattage is that 240VAC heating element? The wiring you're using looks like standard 14/2 wiring which is only good to 15A.

Kal

they are 1500 watts 240v. about 6 amps, well within the wires capability.

 

[kal]

Yup. Most definitely fine as far as the current draw is concerned.

What size pots? 1500W is only enough to vigorously boil about 2, maybe 3 gallons (US).

Kal

 

[Minbari]

it is a 10 gallon pot, gonna be doing 5 gallon batches. There are (2) 1500 watt elements in the brew pot. (seperately wired on isolated SSRs )

my understanding is that 3kw should get 5-7 gallons boiling in about an hour.

 

[kal]

Yup. That should work.

Kal

 

[Minbari]

so I did a test boil today. took 45 minutes to boil 5 gallons of water from 74 to 210 (full boil at my altitude)

 

[atoughram]

so I did a test boil today. took 45 minutes to boil 5 gallons of water from 74 to 210 (full boil at my altitude)

Cool!

For reference, my kettle took an hour to bring 11 gallons from 49f to a boil with a 5500W element - sounds like your in the ballpark!

 

[Minbari]

I was surprised how fast it got hot.

The heatsinks for my SSRs were cold to the touch too, even after an hour

 

[SleepyCreekBrews]

I can usually maintain a 12 gallon boil with 12-13 amps at 240VAC
I also use a (non-UL rated ) plastic cap similar to what AnOldUR is using.

 

[atoughram]

I was surprised how fast it got hot.

The heatsinks for my SSRs were cold to the touch too, even after an hour

I didnt have heatsinks on mine when I was running at 120V. Just bolted to the metal cabinet, and it never even got warm. 240V is a different beast though - they get toasty.

 

[Minbari]

I didnt have heatsinks on mine when I was running at 120V. Just bolted to the metal cabinet, and it never even got warm. 240V is a different beast though - they get toasty.

Not really. 240 has less current than 120, reason I went with it.

As long as they are able to get rid of the heat, that id what is important. Alot of people go with 40 amp SSRs for less than 20 amps of current too. Produces less heat

 

[atoughram]

Produces less heat

The heat is the product of the current through the SSR multiplied by the SSR's voltage drop. The SSR voltage drop is at least half with 120V and since the resistance is constant, the current is half too - so the SSR heat produced is one fourth for the same circuit in 120V instead of 240V.

 

[Minbari]

ok, I get what you are saying.

I must have done it right then, because they stayed stone cold for more than an hour of use.

 

[mattd2]

ok, I get what you are saying.

I must have done it right then, because they stayed stone cold for more than an hour of use.

I might have this wrong but do the SSR not produce more heat when actively stopping the current flow? So they would run hotter when you are running at a reduced duty cycle - and not dump too much heat when running 100% on? Again I could be completely wrong!

 

[Minbari]

Nope, they're either on or off. Only sink heat when on

 

[Conehead]

I used JB Weld with my electrical box. I covered the box with a plastic cover. I check it often for leaks, but none so far. I used the foam gasket that came with the element. I figured if it is good enough for a water heater, it should work fine for me. The pic is of another homebrewer, but mine is exactly the same. My neighbour welded the couplers on my two sanke kegs for a case of beer.

 

[BlkWater_brewer]

Used the brewhardware.com cover. worked with electricity long enough to know, if you can see it, it's not safe. Have a 5500 watt element and on my first 10 gal batch the hot break caught me off guard and without the cover there would have been shorting in the 15 seconds it took to quiet down. By mounting with Tri-Clover clamp, cleaning is done in minutes and I can always cover the port with a plate when I have to brew away from power. Same basic setup for my RIMS as well.

http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s422/carsns/DSCF3183.jpg

 

[ManiacalJ]

I masked everything off, and sprayed it with a half dozen coats of Rustoleum Progrip. Gives it a good thick rubber coat, and it is advertised as being suitable to protect against electrical shorts. I've just run my first batch, and am still tinkering with the setup. I intend to post pics etc once I am satisfied with the build.

 

[elmito]

Any pictures of the "control panel." I'm curious.

 

[Minbari]

sure,

outside:

inside:

 

[Minbari]

ok, so here is what I finally came up with. may not be UL listed, but it does protect the elements from water. Totally water proof. I am sure there are still going to be some that poo-poo it, that is fine

 

[JustLooking]

ok, so here is what I finally came up with.

Did you ever ground the pot? How are you going to clean the pots with the wiring strapped to the table? Will you be changing to flexible cord?

 

[Minbari]

yup, ground strap on both pots.

maybe, but not in the immediate plan. if I find it is impossible to clean it may become a priority. I dont see why I need to pick up the pots to clean them. scrub, PBW over night, scrub, rinse, done. Hate to use a commercial brewery as an example, but they dont pick up or tilt thier kettles to clean them

 

[JustLooking]

Hate to use a commercial brewery as an example, but they dont pick up or tilt thier kettles to clean them

But they would if the could. They use wire rated for a wet environment, and a hose. It's a big PITA and probably the worse job a commercial brewer has to do. To do that on a homebrew scale is just silly (and in your case, dangerous.)

 

[Minbari]

like, I said, its a work in progress and nothing is unchangeable. if this doesnt work, it will get changed to something that does.

 

[kal]

maybe, but not in the immediate plan. if I find it is impossible to clean it may become a priority. I dont see why I need to pick up the pots to clean them. scrub, PBW over night, scrub, rinse, done. Hate to use a commercial brewery as an example, but they dont pick up or tilt thier kettles to clean them

Commercial breweries will use CIP (clean in place) balls and caustic cleaner recirculated with a pump & heated. Unlike your kettles, theirs will have been designed with CIP in mind from the start, including drainage points and what not to be able to drain without leaving standing water. Yours likely has a dip tube/pickup spout and is not bottom drained.

So no, you don't have to pick it up to clean it but it would be considerably easier for you to be able to rinse and drain it sideways since CIP isn't designed into your brewing process from the sounds of it.

Kal

 

[Minbari]

Commercial breweries will use CIP (clean in place) balls and caustic cleaner recirculated with a pump & heated. Unlike your kettles, theirs will have been designed with CIP in mind from the start, including drainage points and what not to be able to drain without leaving standing water. Yours likely has a dip tube/pickup spout and is not bottom drained.

So no, you don't have to pick it up to clean it but it would be considerably easier for you to be able to rinse and drain it sideways since CIP isn't designed into your brewing process from the sounds of it.

Kal

very true. The dip tube does leave behind about 1/4" of water or so. so far I have been soaking that up with a sponge and then air drying.

If I end up re-wiring its not a big deal. flexible cable is available at Lowes. we shall see how it goes on the first couple brews and this setup may get a re-think

 

[jleiii]

The heat is the product of the current through the SSR multiplied by the SSR's voltage drop. The SSR voltage drop is at least half with 120V and since the resistance is constant, the current is half too - so the SSR heat produced is one fourth for the same circuit in 120V instead of 240V.

Not quite on topic for this post, but thought this might be helpful info:

The voltage drop across an SCR (back to back SCR's are the active part of an SSR) is the same regardless of the voltage applied, therefore the heat is a factor only of the current. The voltage drop across the SSR when in full conduction (ie on state) should be the same.
By example, about 1.6 volt drop for a Teccor 25 amp SCR. Multiply this by the current and that is the heat produced. 20 amps at any voltage is the same amount of heat.
No clue if the cheap Chinese SSR's are as efficient.