Can this pump handle hop pellets without any type of filtering device?
Can this pump handle hop pellets without any type of filtering device?
I ordered a couple of them - I'll tell you what I think! I'm planning on making a portable wireless transfer skid.
Nearly a month after ordering and they're still not here...
From their ebay site:
"If you have not received your shipment within 30 business days from payment, please contact us. We will track the shipment and get back to you as soon as possible. Our goal is customer satisfaction!"
If it takes more than 35 days after ordering, you're supposed to get a refund.
HTH
It's whirlpooling my kettle at 180f right now. Not sure how it would do with hops but pellet hops might be ok.
It's a magnetic driven pump. You can just use a ball-valve on the output.
I don't see why it wouldn't work, and it's nice already having the plugs/connectors on it...this is the one I use for my pumps:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171104731465
I plan to disassemble it and use the guts mounted in my control panel...
I'm no expert on pumps, but from my experience limiting the output on my little pump seems to put a lot of strain on it, not that it purrs as nice/quietly running it at 50% vs 100% using the dimmer, but $3 for the dimmer that also has the ability to turn it off quickly was worth it in my opinion.
I don't think you'd put much strain on it.
Whenever the flow gets too tight the impeller will just "skip". Meaning the motor-shaft will spin as normal, but since it's magnetically coupled the resistance against the impeller will make the impeller not spin as fast as the shaft. When the resistance against the impeller is small enough the magnets will grab and the impeller will spin. The motor works as it should, either way. It's the motor you're worried about burning out.
This way the pump gets it rated voltage and amps all the time and is operated as according to its specs.
Correct me if i'm wrong, someone.
Ok I got the little tan pump and after one use I made a alteration. I made it so I can in screw the pump and leave the front part on my ball valve. It needed clean twice but that's because it was a pumpkin ale. But great little cheap pump!!!
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The beauty of 12V pumps is being able to use the PWM controller to vary flow rate. With a PWM you don't even need an on/off switch. Much better solution than a valve.
I understand what your saying but with these 12v style pumps many people here have had the pumps fail and seize up by restricting the flow. the pwm controller seems to be less stressfull on the pump motorThe beauty of centrifugal pumps is that you can vary the flow by simply throttling the outlet side. They are not positive displacement pumps, and as you throttle the flow, the power required goes down, not up as it would with a positive displacement pump......... There really is no reason to use a PWM controller............ a valve works just as well and is a lot simpler.
H.W.
I connect my pumps the same exact way... I use cheap shallow cake pans under where each pump connects to catch the little bit of spillage when disconnecting and moving the pumps about. works ok but I would still like to improve on it a bit.Yea, I use a female camlock disconnect screwed on the inlet portion of my pump so I can connect directly to the bottom drain valve on my kettle, then I use a male camlock from my valves and can close the valve and move the pump to whatever vessel I need to transfer from...makes it very portable.
You can kind of tell what I mean in this pic...
View attachment 221800
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