Growing hops from seed

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B-Hoppy,
Thanks for sharing this. I didn't notice this last year, but wasn't looking for it either.

Just went outside and sure enough, all the seeded cones look quite different from their neighbors.

Here is a section of Galena that I pollinated. Not as clear as your pic, but the bracts are indeed swollen!

image.jpg
 
I've been posting updates in this other thread, over here. But, in case anyone is subscribed to this one:

18 of the new plants have produced significant amounts of cones in their first year. Wet weight ranged from 0.5 to over 39oz per plant.




nagmay, any other results that you collected from your crop this year? Have you made selections yet? Have you begun sowing new seed yet?


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"any other results that you collected from your crop this year? Have you made selections yet? Have you begun sowing new seed yet?"

I have been pretty busy lately, and haven't had the chance to brew - or - taste test the new cones yet. There is time, I don't really need to finalize selections until next spring.

However, I did collect seed from whole set of new crosses. The seed has been sorted and is currently stratifying. There are probably 500 seeds between the 30, second-generation crosses. Not quite sure where I am going to plant all these...
 
"any other results that you collected from your crop this year? Have you made selections yet? Have you begun sowing new seed yet?"

I have been pretty busy lately, and haven't had the chance to brew - or - taste test the new cones yet. There is time, I don't really need to finalize selections until next spring.

However, I did collect seed from whole set of new crosses. The seed has been sorted and is currently stratifying. There are probably 500 seeds between the 30, second-generation crosses. Not quite sure where I am going to plant all these...


How exactly are you crossing nagmay? Hand pollination? Were these open-pollinated seed?


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Pollen was obtained from 4 plants: the Evanston neomexicanus, Magnum x Chinook, and 2 Magnum x Cascade.

By hand, I carefully pollinated sections from all the other varieties in my yard, including: Sterling, Hood, Willamette, Cascade, Nugget, Chinook, POR, and Galena.
 
Pollen was obtained from 4 plants: the Evanston neomexicanus, Magnum x Chinook, and 2 Magnum x Cascade.

By hand, I carefully pollinated sections from all the other varieties in my yard, including: Sterling, Hood, Willamette, Cascade, Nugget, Chinook, POR, and Galena.

Why those particular choices? What are your goals for those particular crosses?
 
Why those particular choices? What are your goals for those particular crosses?

I feel like we've had this conversation before...

Right now, my only real goal is increasing genetic diversity. With that is mind, I decided to pollinate a section from each of the varieties available in my yard. In other words - I wasn't picky - everything was simply crossed with everything else!

Given the option, I would happily plant every single seed and start selections based on flavor/alpha/disease resistance next year. Unfortunatly, I don't have access to that much land right now.
 
For those collecting seeds:

I picked cones in several stages this year. It may seem obvious, but for seed collection, wait as long as possible to pull the cones. Attached is a pic of what the Galena looked like when ready to harvest. They had the fullest, most mature seeds.

old-hops.jpg
 
Pictures of your seeds? What was your average seed set? You said 60 crosses, so was that 60 flowers or was it 10 flowers per "cross", or etc.

I've got ideas for what I might do next year for crosses. I think...


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What was your average seed set? You said 60 crosses, so was that 60 flowers or was it 10 flowers per "cross", or etc.

I believe that I said: "30, second-generation crosses" - that is - I collected multiple seeds from 30 different male/female combinations. The seeds for each cross numbered from a dozen to several hundred.

Actually, I went back to the yard last week and collected a few more, bringing the total number to 38.

Male/pollen source:
  • NHB002 (wild male)
  • NHB005 (magnum x cascade)
  • NHB017 (magnum x cascade)
  • NHB019 (magnum x chinook)

Females:
  • Cascade
  • Chinook
  • Nugget
  • Pride of Ringwood
  • Sterling
  • Willamette
  • Mt Hood
  • Galena
  • NHB003 (neomexicanus)
  • NHB006 (magnum x cascade)
  • NHB025 (magnum x chinook)
  • NHB027 (open pollinated cascade)

I'll post some pics when I get a chance.
 
I believe that I said: "30, second-generation crosses" - that is - I collected multiple seeds from 30 different male/female combinations. The seeds for each cross numbered from a dozen to several hundred.

Actually, I went back to the yard last week and collected a few more, bringing the total number to 38.

Male/pollen source:
  • NHB002 (wild male)
  • NHB005 (magnum x cascade)
  • NHB017 (magnum x cascade)
  • NHB019 (magnum x chinook)

Females:
  • Cascade
  • Chinook
  • Nugget
  • Pride of Ringwood
  • Sterling
  • Willamette
  • Mt Hood
  • Galena
  • NHB003 (neomexicanus)
  • NHB006 (magnum x cascade)
  • NHB025 (magnum x chinook)
  • NHB027 (open pollinated cascade)

I'll post some pics when I get a chance.


Any luck getting seeds with your "seedless" triploids (Mt Hood / Willamette) ?
 
Any luck getting seeds with your "seedless" triploids (Mt Hood / Willamette) ?

Yes, I was surprised to find that both put off a small number of mature looking seeds. However, I have no way to know yet if any of them will be viable.
 
Yes, I was surprised to find that both put off a small number of mature looking seeds. However, I have no way to know yet if any of them will be viable.


You're a magician !! First, you get viable pollen out of a female plant, now you get seeds from "seedless" plants. What's next ?!? ;)

Congrats on your experiment, I hope that you will get new seedling with those special seeds.
 
You're a magician !! First, you get viable pollen out of a female plant, now you get seeds from "seedless" plants. What's next ?!? ;)



Congrats on your experiment, I hope that you will get new seedling with those special seeds.


Triploids can potentially produce fertile gametes, it's just a rare occurrence. I'd be interested in hearing about the success of those seeds in the future.


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Processing the seeds was really messy business. My hands would turn yellow, and then black from all the oils. For the last few, I started using nitrile gloves and did the work over a sheet of wax paper.

Now, I just have to decide whether to de-hull the seeds or leave as-is.

Screen Shot 2014-11-04 at 12.20.32 PM.jpg
 
While I'm here, I'll post a few pics of the yard. All the plants look really good going into late fall.

Surprisingly, many of the bines had new buds forming around the base. This is most likely due to a week of warm weather. Hopefully they don't devote too much energy to this before the frost comes.

Screen Shot 2014-11-04 at 12.26.31 PM.jpg


Screen Shot 2014-11-04 at 12.24.02 PM.jpg
 
Has anyone started stratifying seeds yet, or still collecting? I still have bags of hops I have to go through. I'm glad everyone had some luck this year. Cheers

All my seeds were harvested near the end of September. No more seeds to harvest for me.

I have 2 small lot of seeds from my harvest that are stratifying... but it's really too soon for my climate. I plan to start the stratification of all my other seeds at the beginning of February. I don't have a greenhouse and I plan to have 100 seedling for next year, and still be able to live in my house. :)
 
Surprisingly, many of the bines had new buds forming around the base. This is most likely due to a week of warm weather. Hopefully they don't devote too much energy to this before the frost comes.

I kinda think those buds are a result of the excess energy being produced at this time of the year and are the ones that take off like rockets the following spring ending up making lots of 'bull shoots'. I had one seedling this year that made buds at each node up to about 3 feet! It seems to be a varietal characteristic?
 
Has anyone started stratifying seeds yet, or still collecting? I still have bags of hops I have to go through. I'm glad everyone had some luck this year. Cheers


I have several sets of seed stratifying, and am taking the chance to analyze some data collected about the parents used for crosses. Interesting data set I have as well, can't wait to see how the progeny turn out.
 
Finally pulled some of the seeds from the fridge to start germination. The tray I am using has 200 cells. This year I am trying a soilless mix: 50% coir + 50% vermiculite + a pinch of phosphate.

I'll check back in once they start to pop.

IMG_5714.jpg
 
I've got a few good plants growing right now, with many more on the way. I'm attempting to germinate some distantly-related populations.

One from the wild population you've all seen photos of, another from my OP crosses which will be a inter-mating F1 population, and a third originating from a grower in the southwestern edge of the US.

I've got much of the data from the cultivars, but little from last years F1s.
 
And... the 2015 seeds are starting to pop!

It's just 2 days later, but 13 of the seeds have already germinated. Mid-80s for the temp seems to be perfect.

FullSizeRender.jpg


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...when I remove my seeds from the fridge, I put them directly on top of my fridge where the temp is between 75 - 78 F (24 - 26 C). I alternate every 12 hours between top of the fridge and counter top. Some start to germinate in 24 hours, but most do between 2 and 4 days.

(I stratify and germinate my seeds in a paper towel + ziploc bag)
 
My strategy this year was to be more agressive on the indoor seedling selection.

Based on my last year experience, if the plant does not grow that much indoor, it will not grow that much outdoor. So, I cull them right away without feeling guilty. :)

I have 9 big plants selected in december/january (some are already over 6 feet tall) and near 30 smaller ones (2 - 3 inches) that will be selected in the next 2 -3 weeks. I have a bunch of seeds still stratifying and will put more to stratify at the end of February.

I germinate and select them in successive waves.
 
I haven't had great results stratifying, or sprouting in paper towels. They hop seeds often mold from too much moisture. Or, they sprout and grow into the paper - causing damage when removed.

This year, I used soaked (and drained) pearlite. It seemed to work much better.

I might try it for my normal garden seeds.
 
I haven't had great results stratifying, or sprouting in paper towels. They hop seeds often mold from too much moisture. Or, they sprout and grow into the paper - causing damage when removed.

This year, I used soaked (and drained) pearlite. It seemed to work much better.

I might try it for my normal garden seeds.

This year, I took Bounty brand paper towel... they keep their original shape, does not "collapse" around the seeds and allow more air in. I am also using a plastic bottle sprayer to moist the paper towel, no more direct water from the faucet, which was too much water even if you press the excess out. Sometimes, I have to change the paper towel after the first one to two weeks because of molding occuring because of seeds debris / lupulin...but after that I am usually good to keep the same paper towel.
 
This year, I took Bounty brand paper towel... they keep their original shape, does not "collapse" around the seeds and allow more air in. I am also using a plastic bottle sprayer to moist the paper towel, no more direct water from the faucet, which was too much water even if you press the excess out. Sometimes, I have to change the paper towel after the first one to two weeks because of molding occuring because of seeds debris / lupulin...but after that I am usually good to keep the same paper towel.


I found mold to be a major issue as well, even when using 70% isopropanol or 40% ethanol. I switched to 100% bleach and washed several times following with water. Since the switch there have been no issues with contamination.
 
Congrats! Now if you could do some flow cytometry measurements, even better measure stomatal openings under your microscope.
 
And... what will that tell me?


Flow cytometry is a method used to determine chromosome content (i.e. ploidy). Since Mt. Hood is a triploid female, it shouldn't form (viable) gametes. Analyzing the progeny will give you an idea of what might have happened.

A quick way to measure that is viewing the guard cells and cellular sizes, as they are increased as a result of the increased ploidy (the larger your nucleus, the more room you need).
 
Okay - that makes sense. I may have to whip out the more powerful microscope.
 
Okay - that makes sense. I may have to whip out the more powerful microscope.


Look for some microscopy staining protocols. You'll likely find differential staining techniques for nuclei, etc. This will make the process much easier.
 
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