So when I go to crush my grain my mill grabs and starts to crush and it works fine for a little while. Then it just stops and the handle spins freely. Then it gets going again for a bit. This makes crushing grain even more painstaking. The roller gap is set correctly. Any idea how to fix this?
Grain mill issues
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Brewsader1
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Is the roller spinning too and just isn't doing anything? or is the handle not fitting on the crankshaft perfectly? Try figuring out where the non-spinning issue is.
If you can't figure that out, try taking most of the grain out of the hopper and mill only a couple pounds at a time to see if that helps.
If you can't figure that out, try taking most of the grain out of the hopper and mill only a couple pounds at a time to see if that helps.
Which mill? Barley Crusher by chance?
Sounds similar to my barley crusher issue. I use a drill to moterize but same issue. The crusher has a powered roller and a free roller. Normally the powered roller will pull grain down far enough between the rollers to get the non powered roller to turn and the two rollers crush the grain. Sometimes for whatever reason the non powered roller doesn’t catch on the grain and doesn’t turn. When this happens I dip into the grain with a very long plastic spoon and manually advance the non powered roller. Can’t see it cause it’s covered by grain...so just have to poke around and feel for it. Usually a little nudge and it will start catching again and all will be ok. I’ve noticed this happens more on some grains than others. 2 row crushes pretty easy, Pilsner can give me more issues.
Also be careful. Never never put your hand in the hopper with rollers moving. There is this injury called degloving that can occur, just the name was enough for me.
Also be careful. Never never put your hand in the hopper with rollers moving. There is this injury called degloving that can occur, just the name was enough for me.
You might try taking a brass-bristled brush and cleaning the rollers. Do you clean the rollers each time you use them? If gunk builds up on them they're not going to grab as well.
My MM-3 Pro did the same thing to me yesterday.
Turned out the idle rollers were tight from build up between the rollers and the housing. I dumped the hopper, spun the rollers by hand to get them loose and continued on my way.
Remember the non powered rollers can only be turned by friction forces transferred between the powered roller and the grain. Thats not much. So if the rollers arent grabbing the grain (worn) or the rollers are tight (dirty or misaligned), youre going to have a bad time.
Turned out the idle rollers were tight from build up between the rollers and the housing. I dumped the hopper, spun the rollers by hand to get them loose and continued on my way.
Remember the non powered rollers can only be turned by friction forces transferred between the powered roller and the grain. Thats not much. So if the rollers arent grabbing the grain (worn) or the rollers are tight (dirty or misaligned), youre going to have a bad time.
Yep. A full breakdown and cleaning and it should work like a champ.
My Barley Crusher has done the same thing.
My advice is to disassemble it, clean the bushings and matching shaft areas. Lubricate and reassemble.
The first time I did this I used a cooking oil as lube as I had read somewhere here or on another brewing forum to use that. This worked, for a short while....
I have an aerosol can of dry lube I use on bicycle chains. The next time my mill started doing this I went through the cleaning and lubing again. This time using the dry lube only on the shaft sections that go into the bushings, not on the knurled section.
I will repeat my self here, ONLY on the section that bears on the bushings.
That is some good stuff, because the BC lasts much, much longer between clean/lubing using the dry lube.
I used the moly dry lube since I happened to have a can.
There are different types of dry lube. Some folks may be squeamish using this, there are also PTFE based dry lubes that are specifically rated as food grade.
Since I only used the moly on internal parts that do not come in contact with the grain or the grist I decided to use it.
My advice is to disassemble it, clean the bushings and matching shaft areas. Lubricate and reassemble.
The first time I did this I used a cooking oil as lube as I had read somewhere here or on another brewing forum to use that. This worked, for a short while....
I have an aerosol can of dry lube I use on bicycle chains. The next time my mill started doing this I went through the cleaning and lubing again. This time using the dry lube only on the shaft sections that go into the bushings, not on the knurled section.
I will repeat my self here, ONLY on the section that bears on the bushings.
That is some good stuff, because the BC lasts much, much longer between clean/lubing using the dry lube.
I used the moly dry lube since I happened to have a can.
There are different types of dry lube. Some folks may be squeamish using this, there are also PTFE based dry lubes that are specifically rated as food grade.
Since I only used the moly on internal parts that do not come in contact with the grain or the grist I decided to use it.
I actually found lubrication made it worse. Enough dust makes it in (which is what causes the problem in the first place) and becomes an even worse mess a lot faster. A thorough cleaning an it works like a charm.
Dry lube is dry, attracting no dust. I'd agree regarding liquid lubricants.
I used to clean my BC with the air compressor. That was the ticket until it the rollers just got dull and couldn't grip grain anymore. It never jammed up any more due to dust.
No need for lube really. The bushings are oil impregnated and unless you're driving with a motor and side loading it (which then you should be using a bearing, not a bushing) you don't need a tremendous amount of lubrication.
No need for lube really. The bushings are oil impregnated and unless you're driving with a motor and side loading it (which then you should be using a bearing, not a bushing) you don't need a tremendous amount of lubrication.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
This is why I opted to buy two (ironically cheaper) mills with actual bearings... Almost 4 years now and never even had to clean mine. I still believe the bushings themselves may sometimes be binding up when grain dust finds it's way in them. Also that 1018 cold rolled steel must be some soft stuff compared to the stuff everyone else uses.
Cleaning with compressed air is a good idea.
Using lube, by the way was not my idea, the manufacturer of the BC calls for it. After I posted above I found out where I had read about using vegetable oil. It is in the instructions that came with the BC.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=160995
I had presumed the manufacturer cut another corner and used non-self lubricating bushings but that was just a guess. Lubricating a self lubricating bushing is likely to cause more problems than it solves.
Does anyone know for sure that the bushings are the self lubricating type?
Roller bearing are definitely superior to bushing bearings. What mills are you using?
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Thank you ! I'm very aware of that myself after dealing with both repairing machinery for over 20 years, but I seem to get a lot of resistance when pointing out that very important fact here so others can be informed before deciding what to buy.
I have been using a cereal killer for almost 4 years absolutely zero issues (its even been belt driven by motor all that time) That mill is also sold as the kegking and kegco 2 roller mill and I just bought the kegco 3 roller for a nano im opening which is also sold as the kegking maltmuncher. They all use real bearings and are all made by the same manufacturer and just distributed as many different brands... You can get them on aliexpress as well.
