GFCI breaker tripping when flipping switches on OR off

[Dustin_J]

So, I'm about at my wit's end and I'd be thrilled for any suggestions anyone might have. After sorting out some initial tripping issues about a year ago by trying a different GFCI breaker, I had 7-8 successful brew days with no issues. Then, I started getting some tripping again. It was happening after things were running for while, usually immediately when I flipped the boil kettle element on (with a few other things running). I replaced the element, as one of the screw terminals on the element itself was actually a little loose in terms of how it was making contact with the "coil" (yikes), but that didn't seem to cure things. I actually got a trip yesterday when only the HLT element and pump were running and I turned the pump off - but again it happened immediately when I flipped this switch. Here's the other things I've checked:
- No leaking/liquid noticeable in element enclosure
- Ran through every single electrical connection in the panel looking for shorts to ground and didn't find anything (infinite resistance between each connection and ground)
- Checked wiring/plugs for both elements and pumps for shorts to ground and didn't find anything
- Checked resistance on each element (Old HLT, new boil kettle) and they're dead on
-No noticeable melted wires, soot, discoloration, etc anywhere in any of the wiring, plugs, cables, etc.
- As crimp connections were used within the controller box, I lightly pulled on and jostled each and nothing seemed loose. Also tightened also screw terminals but nothing was noticeably "too" loose.
- Will be replacing the 50 amp receptacle my controller plugs into (and runs directly to the GFCI breaker in the panel) and the wiring as there looks to a be few places the insulation is a bit beat up and receptacles are cheap.
- Will be replacing GFCI breaker as the GE breakers have pretty bad reputations for reliability/longevity

The frustrating things is that it's not predictable, and I actually had a full brew day after replacing the boil kettle element that went fine before I started getting tripping again.
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For background, the system is 50 amps, with 1 5500w element (HLT), 1 4500w element (Boil), and 2 120v pumps (Keg King Mk2, March 809). I have an external Leviton 14-50r receptacle wired to the 50 amp GFCI breaker installed directly in my GE panel (ground from receptacle to panel ground bus bar, both hots and the neutral from the receptacle to the GFCI breaker, breaker neutral pigtail to panel neutral bus bar). The wiring diagram is in this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...nturing-into-a-30a-herms.637193/#post-8139391. I've since re-wired a different receptacle than pictured there with a shorter/straight run instead of that mess.

 

[Vale71]

Did you try replacing the switch itself?

P.S. Before replacing it you could try operating the switch with the mains attached but all the loads disconnected. If the GFCI trips then you've got a "leaky" switch.

 

[Dustin_J]

Did you try replacing the switch itself?

P.S. Before replacing it you could try operating the switch with the mains attached but all the loads disconnected. If the GFCI trips then you've got a "leaky" switch.

Ahh, of course, I'll try testing them without load. I kind of neglected this because there's no ground wire on the switches, but they are directly mounted to the panel face which is grounded, so who knows. Thanks!

 

[Vale71]

Ahh, of course, I'll try testing them without load. I kind of neglected this because there's no ground wire on the switches, but they are directly mounted to the panel face which is grounded, so who knows. Thanks!

Exactly. If the panel was assembled correctly then anything that has or might have mains current running through it must be connected to ground either directly or through the (grounded) enclosure body. This is to ensure that if they were to leak current this would immediately trip the GFCI instead of possibly electrocuting the user.

 

[Dustin_J]

Exactly. If the panel was assembled correctly then anything that has or might have mains current running through it must be connected to ground either directly or through the (grounded) enclosure body. This is to ensure that if they were to leak current this would immediately trip the GFCI instead of possibly electrocuting the user.

Had a sucessful brewday today after making the changes noted above and replacing all of my switches with heavier duty Carlings. Thanks for the suggestion Vale!